Intake porting/blending

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oldkimmer

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This will be on my RB Super Victor Max Wedge Port with 1250 Dominator carb. I’ll post pics of the mismatch. Idk the first thing about porting. I know I don’t want to be cutting or welding on/in it. More so looking for advice. Motor is a 543. 11-1 compression. .625 lift roller cam. Indy SR heads. I’m not sure the intake will be the choke point. The heads may not be enough to be able to feed the motor. Thanks. Kim

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Just by the mismatch alone you can witness the loss when an intake manifold port is smaller than the intake port of the head on the bench. Same on the motor.
Put ported heads on and then cork it with a mismatched intake runner, that the way most do it...the do it yourselfers that is.
 
The head ports will be matched to the intake when they get Max wedge ported. They are standard port now. The intake is a Max wedge port. Kim
 
The head ports will be matched to the intake when they get Max wedge ported. They are standard port now. The intake is a Max wedge port. Kim
Best way to do all that **** is to wait till the heads are finally figured out and dialed in...as in the compression ratio and or any quench distance then test fit everything with gaskets snug, use bore scope/video cam or flash light and look..and see what you really have to do to get it to match up.
Its not always perfect when people send you their heads and intake but not the Block You've got to stick it on some other block which is at whatever the hell deck height it's at and do all your Port matching ...just so they can take it home and find out it probably doesn't line up as good lol
 
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I can take the block along too if the porter wants. Is this really gonna make a noticeable difference in hp and tq? Is the cost worth the gain? Also I’m not trying to extract every last hp or tq out of this engine. Kim
 
I can take the block along too if the porter wants. Is this really gonna make a noticeable difference in hp and tq? Is the cost worth the gain? Also I’m not trying to extract every last hp or tq out of this engine. Kim
I would think every little bit helps. Any abrupt step or transition affects airflow rate, not in a good way. Turbo or supercharged engines that little step isnt terribly noticable, but on a N/A engine even one that's not really high HP, keeping the air flowing smoothly will help with efficiency and power
 
I can take the block along too if the porter wants. Is this really gonna make a noticeable difference in hp and tq? Is the cost worth the gain? Also I’m not trying to extract every last hp or tq out of this engine. Kim
Its just how i do it and im very sure others would prefer to do it that way.
I know it can affect the potential.
 
Not sure on rarity or value of that intake “as is” but if those issues aren’t factors as to whether you should or shouldn’t and running the carb an adapter are set, I’d be doing some grinding on it. I’d grind straight down on the four corners as marked so it matches that adapter/plate, contour/blend into the roof runners, and then work on the walls from roof to floor. Or, you could simply attempt to keep the shape of each corner but grind so essentially all you’ve done is moved the corners out to match the adapter/plate, try and replicate the contours, maybe round things a little more at most

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I can take the block along too if the porter wants. Is this really gonna make a noticeable difference in hp and tq? Is the cost worth the gain? Also I’m not trying to extract every last hp or tq out of this engine. Kim
It will show a power improvement but against the cost? Maybe not so much, BUT.... what will appear (even more so if you run it before and after is...) a better running engine. The fuel will not have an interrupted path to puddle on and run down like rain off of your roof.
The fuel will atomize better. It will be smoother.

12many laid out a good plan of attack IMO.
The only thing I would add in is that when the grinding comes to the wall dividers, I would not take any divider away. If I could add more of a wall divider via the grinding away of the intake, I would do that with rounded edges of the wall dividers.

Conturing the roof of the intakes runners is a slow slope upwards to meet the vertical portion of the intake. How high up is good, IDK. I’m not sure of what is in my head is good or bad. So at this point, I would be searching pictures on the web of what the “Pro’s” did. Speaking of which, how is this for an idea. Call Wilson Manifolds or someone of the like and simply ask how far is it OK to grind the roof of the runner upwards? Is to the adapter OK or just simply contour the runner with a minimal or modest height gain better?

Also, food for thought, look at other race intakes for other makes and see how there casting are and find pictures of those ported.

Good luck with this project Kim. I’ll be looking forward to the work and results. Even though your thinking the heads may not be enough to feed the engine, it will count on every RPM up to that point where the intake track does become the restriction. So the better it is up to that point the better! Might as well make it kick *** until it can’t.
 
My understanding is, in order for that spacer/sheer plate to work as designed, the manifold needs to be opened to the full size of the opening on the underside(same size as the gasket).

Looks like it needs some time on the mill to get it roughed in.
 
The only thing I would add in is that when the grinding comes to the wall dividers, I would not take any divider away. If I could add more of a wall divider via the grinding away of the intake, I would do that with rounded edges of the wall dividers.

Conturing the roof of the intakes runners is a slow slope upwards to meet the vertical portion of the intake. How high up is good, IDK. I’m not sure of what is in my head is good or bad. So at this point, I would be searching pictures on the web of what the “Pro’s” did.
Also, food for thought, look at other race intakes for other makes and see how there casting are and find pictures of those ported.
Something like this vs something like that is what you are referring to perhaps?

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My understanding is, in order for that spacer/sheer plate to work as designed, the manifold needs to be opened to the full size of the opening on the underside(same size as the gasket).

Looks like it needs some time on the mill to get it roughed in.


Exactly. If OK is going to run that shear/reversion plate (he should) the intake manifold needs to be machined so that the entire opening of the plate exposed to the plenum. If you not, it will not work.
 
Something like this vs something like that is what you are referring to perhaps?

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That’s exact it! Which one is best/better and why.
This I don’t know. I would option for less grinding because I don’t know. I can only make a suggestion to what the pro’s are doing and ask why and if I my application if it is good or not.

The top picture is what I was trying to describe and what I myself would do. Again, because I do t know for sure. It also leaves the option to remove more material rather than try and add it back in. The top picture is how other makes of intakes come OOTB. Or similar in look and design. At least in the above picture, (in addition to what I said above) the runners remain long/longer.

The bottom picture shows that there is more plenum. More or less plenum is also another question that may be best answered by your engine which of course may not be good for mine or Kim’ or etc.... I’m sure there is a reason to and not to do things like this. I have not the experience to make such calls and for sure, not to be sure. Is there a Benefit to adding plenum? I’m sure that’s combo dependent and application dependent. But if so, how much is too much and when is it not enough?

This is where things can get a little hairy scary. IDK what exact intake Kim has and if there a plenty or hard to find.
 
That spacer may do the trick. The intake is an Edelbrock Super Victor 440. Max Wedge Ports. Dominator carb flange. I never gave it a thought of how old it might be and if there was any changes/updates. I’ll ask the guy doing my heads. Kim
 
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What if I run without the spacer? The carb does open up all the way with out it. I’ll be taking the heads and intake and likely the block to the porter next week. Probably the carb too. Kim
 
With spacers......you just have to try them. Some give more hp [ a little ], others lose hp.
Beware of ridiculous claims. On another forum, a gent claimed that adding a 1" open spacer on a Torker intake gave a 102 hp increase [ yes, 102, not a misprint ]. Obviously if it was THAT easy [ $30 spacer ] to add 102 hp, it would be Summit/Jegs hottest selling item!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Said gent no longer posts the above BS, probably realised how ridiculous it is.
 
What if I run without the spacer? The carb does open up all the way with out it.

Obviously you don’t “need” the spacer.
It’s all up to you to decide how much time and money you want to spend to be able to utilize that particular A/R type spacer....... which is an unknown quantity as to just how much difference in power there will be with it on your particular combo.

It would be pretty low on my list of things I was worried about until the motor was in the car and running.
 
Is this a Super Victor? Was there welding done? Thanks. Kim
No idea, just some photos I found while searching for examples. I’ve got a butchered W-2 Strip Dominator where somebody welded runner extensions in the plenum, I’ve never seen any intakes for Mopars with them in the plenum, might be versions I’m unaware of though
 
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