Interesting means of cleaning a carb

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zmarty27

zmarty27

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Howdy, everybody.

I posted this in another thread and the reception was ‘Just buy a Chinese Carburetor.’ I think they misunderstood the intent, which was to rebuild the one I have on a dime without compromising the originality of the build.

The fellas over on the other thread helped me identify the Carter with precision so my posting of the carb is for reference of its condition. The following video is of a gentleman using muriatic acid to rid the mechanism of grime, rust, and other harmful hindrances to the operation of the machine.

Have any of you tried this on a carburetor? This process DILUTES the acid to keep from eating the thing up so please take a moment to hear the fellow out prior to dismissing him. I really want to tackle another build without simply purchasing or replacing the engine (which seems to be the common response towards the loyal /6’ers). Let me know what you think!

You have all been a tremendous help in my learning process. I am grateful to you all.



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I've soaked carbs in Metal Prep, which is phosphoric acid, have to monitor that. Have a pic of a set I did around here I will dig out. The issue with resto is recoating/plating steel parts so they don't rust & appear as new.
 
I watched this video about a week ago. I'll share my mistake. I boiled a 1406 Edlebrock in lemon juice (according to You-tubers) and it turned dark grey. I believe there was a chemical reaction with the coating they put on their carbs. Essentially turned it into garbage. I did try this gentleman's process to see if it would at least get the grey grime off and it help, but not to the point I would re-assemble and install. Not saying his process is not a good idea, mine did boil and was lots of action in the pail, however I think I did too much damage already. The grey material will rub off on your fingers but will not wash off, crazy. I believe the exterior make-up of the carb is key. Others might chime in on alloys or materials used in different carb manufacturers. I have another carb from a 48' Dodge I will be trying.
 
I'm too paranoid to use a strong acid to clean a carburetor. There are too many calibrated tiny orifices to worry about. There are also a bunch of good alternative products that do the job just fine. Maybe that's just me though.
 
Rebuilding my Holley 1920 now. Had a can of 35-year-old carb cleaner that finally turned to syrup. The fumes would part your hair! Bought a 3/4 gallon can of Gunk cleaner. Doesn't strip everything like the old stuff, but what does?

My FSM says to use denatured alcohol as a cleaner.

Good luck!!
 
Dana67Dart said:
What's wrong with ain old fashion gunk carb cleaner?
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The EPA cut its balls off about 20 or so years ago. It's just a total waste of time now.

The best luck I've had is with aerosol spray cleaners. They work FAR better than type of carburetor dip. I've never tried the acid thing though. I've done soda blasting and it works well.
 
Try 100% Simple Green. Biodegradable and cleans well. Soak an hour or two, rinse, and blow out with compressed air. Repeat as necessary.
 
66fs said:
Try 100% Simple Green. Biodegradable and cleans well. Soak an hour or two, rinse, and blow out with compressed air. Repeat as necessary.
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Done it. Turns them dark grey or black. Simple green doesn't react well with aluminum.
 
I have a 3310 laying around, I think I will do it!
 
I've done it he boil with lemon juice, sometimes I get the gray sometimes not.
My latest weapon for dirty carbs is a ultrasonic cleaner with mostly water, just a little simple green dribbled in
 
I think the chromate coating is a carcinogen. Might be careful if you are stripping it.
 
I recently had a TQ with burned on fuel deposits & general gunk on the alum. I painted on household paint stripper & it has cleaned it perfectly, no residue or colour change.
 
volaredon said:
I've done it he boil with lemon juice, sometimes I get the gray sometimes not.
My latest weapon for dirty carbs is a ultrasonic cleaner with mostly water, just a little simple green dribbled in
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I have a big ultrasonic cleaner. It'll fit a Dominator disassembled. Had it a few years now. So far, I've tried everything in it under the sun and it won't clean ****. Pisses me off even postin about it.
 
Bewy said:
I recently had a TQ with burned on fuel deposits & general gunk on the alum. I painted on household paint stripper & it has cleaned it perfectly, no residue or colour change.
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You mean mineral spirits based?
 
No. It is like a jelly consistency. Comes in a tin. Paint on with a brush, have your coffee for 15 min, & scrub off with bristle brush & water.
 
Bewy said:
No. It is like a jelly consistency. Comes in a tin. Paint on with a brush, have your coffee for 15 min, & scrub off with bristle brush & water.
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Ok, gotchya. I have something similar out in the shop. I may give it a whirl. Thanks. Everything going good in the land down under? Yall havin a nice Christmas season?
 
Ultrasonic cleaner is the best way to clean it. Use a small amount of Pine Sol (2 tablespoons) to 2 gallons of distilled water.

Keep a watch on it at 10 minute intervals so you don't turn it gray.

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These Edelbrock 4 bbl carbs ^^^ are a lot easier to rebuild than that stock 2bbl you are working on.

Much simpler.

Ultrasonic Cleaned parts pictured here.
 
George Jets said:
Ultrasonic cleaner is the best way to clean it. Use a small amount of Pine Sol (2 tablespoons) to 2 gallons of distilled water.

Keep a watch on it at 10 minute intervals so you don't turn it gray.

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These Edelbrock 4 bbl carbs ^^^ are a lot easier to rebuild than that stock 2bbl you are working on.

Much simpler.

Ultrasonic Cleaned parts pictured here.
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Well I'm really glad some folks have figured out the ultrasonic cleaner cause I sure as heck haven't.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well I'm really glad some folks have figured out the ultrasonic cleaner cause I sure as heck haven't.
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Yeah, know you have been wrestling with that one. Have taken a piece of tin foil folded into an "A" and put that into the Ultrasonic Cleaner as a test. If the cleaner is working correctly the tin foil will come out like it has been through a shotgun blast, full of small holes.

The Edelbrock Carbs have a nice smooth additional factory finish that easily clean up nice with the Ultrasonics.

The factory carter carbs are raw aluminum and are more porous and are harder to get clean, requiring some additional manual cleaning during the Ultrasonic steps.
 
j par said:
So far I like the buy Chinese idea the best... LOL..
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For 80 bucks delivered to your door, it's a good way to remedy the touchy poor running used carburetor problems.

The thing is it is hard to get an old used crusty carb back to 100% clean so that it will run right when you get done rebuilding it. Internal ports and passages can plug off and are hard to get 100% clean so they flow right.
 
I’ve found that oven cleaner from the dollar store works well on carbs and real greasy parts. Same for purple power.
 
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