Is my compressor shot?

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  1. 4spdragtop

    4spdragtop CONGRATS NORTH AMERICA!

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    Hi all, not sure if my compressor is "done"?? A couple issues it has,
    1. oil leak on pump itself appears to be coming from top cyl gasket.
    2. Motor has a reset button on it that keeps tripping.
    3. Should the pump itself have "compression" when turning over by hand? My memory is telling me that it used to?
    Heres my dilemna, it's a good compressor or WAS. 2001 Husky from Home Depot(made by CH) 230v 60 gallon 2 cyl. 1st signs of a problem were the reset breaker on the motor itself would trip every once in a while and eventually got more frequent. I thought the motor was toast so I went to pull the motor and noticed a shitty connection on the Condor pressure switch. One of the tabs were broke. I was thinking perfect, cheaper fix than new motor. Went to Princess Auto and bought new switch for $50. Came home and wired it in. The reset/breaker on motor still trips....go figure. I quickly checked motors while at PA. And I can get a Chinese one for around $200. PA has a great return/customer service policy so not necessarily concerned about warranty.
    Shaft on motor spins freely but i can hear slight "scrubbing " inside when I spin by hand.
    I dont want to go buy a $200 motor on top of $50 psi switch I bought to find out the pump is shot also? Should it build ompression/pressure when turning over by hand? Then, the entire unit is 20 years old, so I'm concerned with tank corrosion also. New compressor definitely isnt in the budget but dont want to sink $$ into a 20 yr old compressor that MAY not work.
    Sentimental value as Dad gave it to me 10 years ago, he bought it new.
    Thanks
    Steve

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  2. SIX225

    SIX225 Well-Known Member

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    Will the motor run when not connected to the pump? I believe that the pressure switch that turns the motor on/off has an unload function to allow the motor to start. Might even have a check valve associated with it. Also, does it have a start capacitor? Definately check the tank for corrosion before putting too much money into it. Unfortunately my Craftsman from 1992 has rusted through. Might be my fault as I've never been good about keeping it drained. I hear you on the sentimental part.
     
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    • Kendog 170

      Kendog 170 Let the boy go !

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      The check valve may be leaking back into the compressor? If it is it will put pressure on piston causing the breaker to trip. It will also try to push oil out anywhere it can.
      Good advice on post above as well. Looks like you have dual capacitors. If one is toast you will pop the breaker. Google how to test a capacitor I believe you check ohms but not sure. YOU MUST discharge energy by touching both connection together with an insulated screw driver to safely discharge any power. If you see a quick spark while doing so then it may be good.
       
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      • Kendog 170

        Kendog 170 Let the boy go !

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        Check valve between compression fitting and tank ?

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        • Kendog 170

          Kendog 170 Let the boy go !

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          Can u post pic of Pressure switch ?
           
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          • 4spdragtop

            4spdragtop CONGRATS NORTH AMERICA!

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            I never tried to start motor with the belt off. Any time it tripped the reset I allowed it to cool(motor was warm), reset it, and spun by hand. There was next to no resistance(no compression buildup). As i mentioned, my memory could be wrong but I thought it would build psi by hand).
            Pics of new psi switch installed. Black plastic tube from bottom of switch runs back to tank. I swapped over the brass psi relief valve from the old one. You can see a "motor" contact missing in original psi switch. That's where I thought the problem was. Included insert from new switch and also pic of old switch.
            Thanks
            Steve
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          • 4spdragtop

            4spdragtop CONGRATS NORTH AMERICA!

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            Ok, so I removed the copper pipe. Ferrule at pump end was good, but it was missing at tanker end? Looks like either Dad or mfg missed a ferrule and added rtv of some sort. Pic of old switch as well. Dual capacitors? Are you talking about the 2 "spring things" on old switch?
            Thanks
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          • Jim Lusk

            Jim Lusk Well-Known Member

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            Where are you located? I've got a parts pump (one broken connecting rod) and motor. Mine would trip the motor every once in a while, which may have been during the time it was getting ready to toss the rod. Crank probably needs to be polished, but overall everything else looks pretty good. If you're anywhere near central California I'd give you the parts. I could ship as well. I don't think I threw anything away, either. I kept the pressure gauge as I'm using the tank for extra capacity. I did good last summer so I replaced mine with a new Quincy four cylinder two stage...

            Let me know what you need.
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            • Kendog 170

              Kendog 170 Let the boy go !

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              Capacitors on motor

              InkedE motor_LI.jpg
               
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              • Kendog 170

                Kendog 170 Let the boy go !

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                Watch this
                 
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                • Kendog 170

                  Kendog 170 Let the boy go !

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                  So when your compressor shuts off it's suppose to release the air caught between the tank and the compressor. You will hear it hiss at the pressure switch until evacuated. If it keeps hissing the check valve is leaking. Make sure the silicone and crap doesn't fall into the check valve in pic.
                   
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                  • Dicer

                    Dicer Back Bone beats Wish Bone all the time. FABO Gold Member

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                    The button on the electric motor is a thermo reset, if the motor heats up it breaks the circuit. If the button pops repeatedly over time it weakens by use. I would take the motor to a repair shop or find the means to replace the switch. The scrubbing noise is more then likely the centrifugal switch, it's like a first gear for cars......
                     
                  • 4spdragtop

                    4spdragtop CONGRATS NORTH AMERICA!

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                    Thanks Jim, much appreciate the offer. unfortunately I'm in Ontario Canada. From what I've been googling with oil leaks, it could be a plugged intake filter also and I know that it's in need of a new one bad. I would blow it out every once in a while but that only works for so long.
                    Thanks Ken for the point out on capacitors. Those would feel warm when the reset would trip. I took one cover off and it "looked" good. No testing done tho.
                    Weird cuz when everything was hooked up and reset tripped, I could spin the pulley by hand to find the right spot where it would start up. This would take maybe 4-5 tries. Once running it.would build psi as it is sposed.too and cutoff at 135psi. Them on cut in psi it would hum, and/or move ever so slightly and trip the reset on motor....so could the tripping and oil "leaks" be related?
                    Obviously a ferrule is needed for copper pipe. I'll see about a replacement intake filter.
                    So took intake filter off and covered intake with my hand and turned pulley over. It sucks in my hand, so that's a good sign.
                    I removed "check valve"(not sure of proper name) and the bottom seat was slightly cocked. I tapped it and it fell back into place? Looks like bottom edge of it is worn away on the out lip?
                    Thanks all.
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                  • 67Dart273

                    67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    Steve do you have a clamp on ammeter? If you do try measuring draw soon after starting cold, then if you can get it to trip measure it as soon as you can close to it tripping/ warm. Immediately pull the belt and "compare by hand" rotate the compressor by hand and judge if it is any tighter to turn than cold

                    The compressor likely will not seem to have compression by hand......the unloader should be released if the pressure switch is open

                    The "scrubbing" you felt when rotating the motor could well be the start switch...so normal

                    A start cap should not cause tripping when running. Start cap only in circuit when starting,as soon as the start switch "flips" the start cap is disconnected. If the start switch sticks, it will pop the breaker on startup and make lots of grunting and noise from over-current

                    The run cap is a different matter.
                     
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                    • toplscuda

                      toplscuda Well-Known Member

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                      Steve that is definitely your starting issue. Pick up a new one and install it and all should be good.

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                      • Kendog 170

                        Kendog 170 Let the boy go !

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                        Check valve leaking does this. You have 130psi pushing on cylinder causing motor to hum not turn.
                         
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                        • 6PakBee

                          6PakBee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                          I think that you have a motor problem, specifically with the starting switch or starting capacitor. The fact that the pump can build pressure to the switch cutout once it's running tells me the pump is okay. As the motor can drive the compressor to this point, once it is running, indicates the running mode of the motor is okay. I'm not sure how much electrical knowledge you have but there are numerous YouTube videos on how to clean the starting switch contacts and test the capacitors on a capacitor start/capacitor run motor like you have. There's no problem working on electrical equipment as long as you follow the procedures and do not do anything stupid.
                           
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                          • 67Dart273

                            67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                            It should be easy to eliminate check valve/ unloader issue. With compressor cycled off, and disconnect "OFF" turn pulley. Should turn fairly easy with no or very little hint of compression and YOU SHOULD be able to hear air hiss out of the unloader as you turn it. Then with power back "ON" Pull relieve valve or "unleash" a blow gun, etc, until you bleed enough air that it starts. If it does not start or trips something you likely have a motor problem
                             
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                            • George Jets

                              George Jets 1967 Dart 2 Door FABO Gold Member

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                              Also, it looks like a single stage 2 cylinder pump. Has reed valves in the head that lets air in on the down stroke, then closes and pushes the air to route to the tank on the upstroke.

                              Those reed valves can break off one of the flex tabs, then the pump does not work very effectively, over working it, heating everything up, and tripping breakers.

                              Easy job to pull the head, and check the reed valves. If you are careful you can probably save the head gasket too.

                              ________

                              That check valve at the tank is a big suspect too. Suposed to be a check valve with a bleed off. Holds pressure in the tank and bleeds pressure off the line and head so it is easy to spin up on the next restart. Not having to pump against the pressure in the tank.

                              _______

                              Also you could drop the cut off pressure down to 110 lbs instead of the higher 135 psi. That will lighten the load a lot on your well used compressor, helping to extend it's life.
                               
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                              • Snake

                                Snake Mopar Nut

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                                Steve call the OPP someone shot your compressor, it does not look good .
                                 
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                                • MoparMike1974

                                  MoparMike1974 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                  The reed valves can also carbon/filth up and cause them not to seal. Sometimes you can flip them over to get more life out of them if they are symmetrical.
                                   
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                                  • 4spdragtop

                                    4spdragtop CONGRATS NORTH AMERICA!

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                                    Ok so I'll update everything here shortly. I've bought new "stuff", including the START capacitor (black one) that tested bad. RUN tested good. Had electrician with a good Fluke test for me. Capacitor also tested bad at local tool shop and they had a new one in stock! $20! A shout out to Larry's Electric in Peterborough. Great "toy" shop for guys and cool chicks. No valve and no air intake filter tho.
                                    So new capacitor, I took pics before unhooking wires. BUT new one has an external diode?? Should it make a difference with my wire connections? I have 1 red and 1 black wire.
                                    Thanks all!
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                                  • 4spdragtop

                                    4spdragtop CONGRATS NORTH AMERICA!

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                                    Ok as well as new Start capacitor, I also lucked out with new valve and bushings, only another $20, so not bad. So far. The old valve had a small round disc in it. Not sure where the "spring"/resistance piece went, but it was AWOL lol. So Peterborough Automotive had new valve, but no specs on it. Appears well made? Its shiny and has an inner c-clip, so that's good? New capacitor is smaller dimensionally so gotta tape/wedge it into the outer cover.
                                    Once I know which way to wire the new start capacitor I can finish hooking everything up.
                                    Thanks again, hopefully this saves me quite a bit of money. It's more fun spending it when you want to, NOT when you need to. $50+$50 for new psi switch....fingers crossed.
                                    Oh and bought 2 intake filters. $17.
                                    Thanks!:thumbsup:

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                                    • 65Val

                                      65Val Average Length Member

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                                      Steve... looks like my unit, just diff. color. I’m saving all this info for when mine goes kaput... It’s 22 years old!:canada::thankyou:
                                       
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                                      • 4spdragtop

                                        4spdragtop CONGRATS NORTH AMERICA!

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                                        Hey Dar, it's been a great unit. I'm hoping all these issues lead back to the valve.
                                        Any idea if diode orientation makes a difference?
                                         
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