Is this a blind hole???

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mopowers

mopowers

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Is this timing cover bolt hole blind? Or does it go into a water jacket or the crank case?

I was helping my dad put his 360 together over the weekend and forgot to put sealer on this bolt. I'm wondering if I'll need to have him take the water pump off to reinstall that bolt with sealer to keep it from leaking.

Thanks!

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If I'm not mistaken, I believe it gets "wet". I think if you shine a light in the block at the right angle, you'll see that it's not "blind".
 
I *THINK* that hole is blind. IIRC, the only holes open to coolant are the 2 on each side at the water inlet to the block.
 
That hole IS wet. IIRC about a year ago there was a member here who used a bolt that was to long and busted the #2 cylinder.
 
This is exactly why I use RTV sealant on every bolt in the front, because 1, you never know and 2, it helps to get the bolt out the next time. RTV is a great rust proofer.
 
Thats how i got my dart,he couldnt figure out the leak.
 
For me it depends on how far you guys have it assembled, if it's done or close I'd try it and see if it leaks. I've always put some sorta sealer on those bolts so I'm not sure if they'll leak without. But if youre not very far in the assembly process id pull the pump off
 
I 'studded' the last 318 I put together up front, Custom all-thread job! I thought it would make it easier to put together and not losing the bolts. worked great but had to remove the radiator every time I did anything up there. It wasnt hard just messy catching all the water. I thought of the idea after I pulled out one of the bolts and it was corroded so as to almost break in there. Must have run straight water for years.
 
pishta said:
I 'studded' the last 318 I put together up front, Custom all-thread job! I thought it would make it easier to put together and not losing the bolts. worked great but had to remove the radiator every time I did anything up there. It wasnt hard just messy catching all the water. I thought of the idea after I pulled out one of the bolts and it was corroded so as to almost break in there. Must have run straight water for years.
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I had 2 on the Wife's 318 snap off when we first got it and I did a bunch of work on the motor.
Luckily They both snapped off at the water pump gasket area and left about an inch sticking out of the block.
Soaking them with penetrant and about 300 taps with a hammer on each one and they came out.
The hammer trick works great if a person has the patience for it.

I'm with Rusty on the RTV, and exactly for the same reasons.
 
philcollins said:
It's wet, don't ask me how i know.... lol
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After doing a timing chain and water pump on my 340 Duster I sold a couple of years ago. I filled her up with antifreeze and it was coming out as fast as I poured it in. I thought the lower radiator hose was not on correctly. After further inspection I see that damb hole with no bolt in it. What a dumbass.....Definitely a lesson learned. I sold that car and got another one. Went through the same work on this one but did not forget that damn bolt. Lesson learned for sure.
 
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Thanks guys! I'm glad I caught it now before we put the motor in his truck. He'll just need to pull the pump and pull that bolt. At least I remembered the oil slinger this time. LOL
 
I primed an oil pump and forgot I had no sender screwed in.."Thar she blows!"
I filled a dry C4 with the "required" 4 Gallons of fluid and it came right out the top vent all over my garage floor. I guess you fill a C4 when its running.....
 
2 bottom holes are blind.
upper right is wet.
Make SURE on bolt length.!!!!
upper right if bolt is too long, it will damage cylinder bore if forced..

Had a block gave to me
had to sleeve the #1 cylinder to repair the damage

if you have the core plug out on the right / front you can see where (a long bolt) could do damage
 
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