Is this a good cam for my 416 stroker

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SGBARRACUDA

ROY
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I just picked up this package deal and I'm just starting to go through everything I got with this deal. I posted a thread about this 68 Barracuda and parts I purchased not long ago. Here is the original thread.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=333421
The guy that started this build had a shop named Southern Style Racing Engines in Pinnelas Park Fl. do all the machine work on this engine. It's a 340 with a 4" Eagle rotating assembly from Indy Cylinder heads with Wisco pistons. The engine was balanced and assembled by them. The cam that is in the short block is a Cam Motion solid roller 246/250 @.050 duration 561/541 lift. Lobe separation is 110. Today I checked the installed CL it was 107. Valve lash is .008 IE.
The rest of the combo is Indybrock heads that included their Super Modified Port & Polish job. Super Victor Intake and a Holley HP 750 Dp. TTI 1 7/8" headers. A CRT transmission with reverse manual trans and a 3000 converter. 3.91 SG rear.
Everything is new but was purchased or built 7 years ago. I haven't been able to find any info on this camshaft and wanted to ask for some feedback from some of the engine builders here on FABO. My intent with this car is a street car but I'll buy a set of slicks so I can go beat on it a little at the track every now and then. Thanks in advance
 
Cast eagle crank?

The cam isn't a bad choice, id' run it if it was in there. Not near enough carb.
 
I agree on the carb, put a 950HP on it. Has the Super Victor had any work done to it? If not you'll be better off with a Victor. Also, IMO you need at least a 4500 converter.
 
I agree on the carb, put a 950HP on it. Has the Super Victor had any work done to it? If not you'll be better off with a Victor. Also, IMO you need at least a 4500 converter.

This car will see more street time than track. I believe 4500 is a bit much.
 
Nice cam for the street or strip. Do you know how well the heads flow and where they stall on air flow? Would it be possible for you to run 1.6 rockers? Just wondering and thinking out loud. Not that the combo needs it.

I think you'll enjoy that whole set up myself. i suggest a call to a custom converter maker.
PTC, Dynamic, etc.... They ask for a lot of info on and about the car, and what your looking to do but it will be worth it when your done and driving.
 
Nice cam for the street or strip. Do you know how well the heads flow and where they stall on air flow? Would it be possible for you to run 1.6 rockers? Just wondering and thinking out loud. Not that the combo needs it.

I think you'll enjoy that whole set up myself. i suggest a call to a custom converter maker.
PTC, Dynamic, etc.... They ask for a lot of info on and about the car, and what your looking to do but it will be worth it when your done and driving.

No I did not get a flow sheet with these heads thou I may have them checked for flow, valve job and guide fit. It does have a CNC mild port job done by Indy, On the invoice they call it a Super modified port job It does have 1.6 rockers. The converter I have now came from CRT with the new 727. Info sheet on it says it is a 3000.
 
It all sounds like a nice street set up with the ability to make a decent track run.
IMO, what "I" would do is just run the combo as is and then after you know it a little bit, then go and make a change. First change I myself would do is the larger carb. It is the cheaper and easier part to purchase and install. See if you can not borrow one before you make the purchase.

If you feel drivability is good with the converter you have for it, the. Leave it in.
 
I think you have a fine street combination. Put it together with the parts you have. We built a 426 with with a 256/260 solid roller, a 3000 stall and 3.23 gears. It's tough to get to hook up in any gear. The carb? It's mostly for the street right? You already have the 750, why spend more money before you try it? What gain would there be in street performance with a 850 or 950. Lordy, you've spent enough money in the past, put it together and enjoy what you have now.
 
I think you have a fine street combination. Put it together with the parts you have. We built a 426 with with a 256/260 solid roller, a 3000 stall and 3.23 gears. It's tough to get to hook up in any gear. The carb? It's mostly for the street right? You already have the 750, why spend more money before you try it? What gain would there be in street performance with a 850 or 950. Lordy, you've spent enough money in the past, put it together and enjoy what you have now.

Yes I have spent some doe, but what the hell that is what it's for------right? Thanks for you feedback. I actually have the 750HP and a 830HP so I can try both. Need some killer Stage VI's? LOL
 
Spent the day going over the short block checking rods and main torque. Installed the timing cover and Milidon oil pan. I left the cam a 107 degrees C/L. Engine was built in 2008 and has been setting so I replace the rear main seal since the crank has been sitting on the original for almost 8 years. Next I'm taking the Indybrock heads to my machinist so he can check the valve job and guide clearance since I've heard nightmare stories about the quality control that comes out of Indy Motors. I'm going to have the heads flow checked also.
 

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Except for the intake it sounds like a nice street/strip combo. Yeah it'd be a little faster with a bigger carb and cam and looser stall but since you said it'd be mostly a street car I'd keep what you have cept for the intake. IMO with the rest of that combo I think it'd do better with an Eddy air-gap. I bet you'll find a taller gear will be nicer on the street too. I have 3.23's in mine with 28" tall tires and it still gets in the 11's (when I can get it too hook up) and I've got over 17 mpg down the hwy out of it

BTW: you'd be real surprised how docile a good tight street/strip converter can be. I put a 9-1/2" 4000 stall in my Cuda which is a 99% street, 1% strip car and I love it. Had a 3000 stall before and there isn't a big difference in drivability but there sure is on quickness. The 4000 drives real good on the street and man does it get with the program when I nail it. The only time it's a deficit is when I get on a real steep hill going slow I have to downshift to 2nd. We're supposed to have nice weather this week and I'm gonna do a video run with it before I start tearing it apart next week to have it painted. I'll post the video in the general section.
 
Sarge,sounds like a nice combination. The torque from a 4" arm small block,will blow your mind.(the streetability is sweetness, too..)
 
Except for the intake it sounds like a nice street/strip combo. Yeah it'd be a little faster with a bigger carb and cam and looser stall but since you said it'd be mostly a street car I'd keep what you have cept for the intake. IMO with the rest of that combo I think it'd do better with an Eddy air-gap. I bet you'll find a taller gear will be nicer on the street too. I have 3.23's in mine with 28" tall tires and it still gets in the 11's (when I can get it too hook up) and I've got over 17 mpg down the hwy out of it

BTW: you'd be real surprised how docile a good tight street/strip converter can be. I put a 9-1/2" 4000 stall in my Cuda which is a 99% street, 1% strip car and I love it. Had a 3000 stall before and there isn't a big difference in drivability but there sure is on quickness. The 4000 drives real good on the street and man does it get with the program when I nail it. The only time it's a deficit is when I get on a real steep hill going slow I have to downshift to 2nd. We're supposed to have nice weather this week and I'm gonna do a video run with it before I start tearing it apart next week to have it painted. I'll post the video in the general section.

I look forward to it. And I may get a hold of Frank Lupo to build me a tight 9 1/2" converter. Thanks
 
This car will see more street time than track. I believe 4500 is a bit much.

The converter behind my 408 flashed 5200, I never had any problems on the street. I'm going to run it behind my new 434 but suspect it may need to be tightened up some.
 
Well I did take the Indybrock heads to my machinist this morning before heading out to Ga. to go hunting. I'll report on what he finds out on them.
 
I do believe you all are right on the intake. The RPM range is to high for where this car will live most of the time, on the street. When I get home I'll list the Super Victor for sale or trade for a Edelbrock Air gap.
 
Ok so I ran into my first speed bump. I bolted the heads on with a set of 1008 Felpro head gaskets and then today I went to install the set of 828-16 Comp Cams roller lifters and nope, they won't fit with the Indybrock heads bolted on. Are all roller lifters the same? Or is there set that will work with the heads on? Other wise I have to pull the heads to install them. Now I know why there was a set of 1008's sitting on the block that had been previously torque down. I guess the original owner already ran into this problem.
 
Ok, so I've got the Comp roller lifters in, got the Indybrock heads bolted down and I bought a RPM Air Gap intake for it. My next question. The Indybrocks were CNC ported and match the FelPro intake gaskets I have pretty well. The intake though is a different case, I need to gasket match the intake. My question is, how far into the runner should I open the intake runners?
 
I always blend mine deep enough that there is no bump in the transition. Pay extra attention to the roof and outside of the ports. Also it's better to have the intake port opening a little smaller than the head port opening.

I glue the intake gasket to the heads with two small dabs of Gasgacinch making sure it's aligned with the ports. After the intake is bolted on scribe a reference line along the top and end of gasket on both sides. Then remove the intake and gaskets (keep the gaskets on their respective sides), bolt them to the intake using the scribe marks on the gaksets to line it up, then scribe the lines to port to. I go around the port openings with a black magic marker before I scribe the line, it makes it easier to see the scribe marks. When you do the port work only grind to the scribe mark, don't cut it out.
 
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