It's Here It's Here

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64physhy said:
What was causing the erratic idle?
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I installed a shielded cable for the tach signal and I readjusted the IACONE@AOL.COM counts. I am still having issues with RPM Noise errors but the idle is smooth. I also had to raise the deceleration fuel delivery as I was getting a surge when I let up off of the gas. I raised it from 25 to 35, it's better but I might have to go further, stay tuned.
 
Still tweaking things on the Fitech but I decided to finally paint the rear end and the brake drums. Just couldn't stand have a shiny new tank and a crusty dirty rear end.
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My rpm noise error was fixed with new plug wires - I had a burnt spot on one that I couldn't immediately see. Caused all kinds of issues at idle and low throttle cruise.
 
Phreakish said:
My rpm noise error was fixed with new plug wires - I had a burnt spot on one that I couldn't immediately see. Caused all kinds of issues at idle and low throttle cruise.
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Thanks Phreakish,
I will look into that but I sure hope that that's not it, I have 10mm Taylor's on there.
 
OK,
So I know I've been slacking on the videos so here is one of the cold startup. I am still tuning and I have to crack the throttle open a bit to get it to fire up. The on the road tuning is getting better as time goes on. This is just a short video and I will get some driving for your enjoyment.

 
superchargeddrt said:
OK,
So I know I've been slacking on the videos so here is one of the cold startup. I am still tuning and I have to crack the throttle open a bit to get it to fire up. The on the road tuning is getting better as time goes on. This is just a short video and I will get some driving for your enjoyment.

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very cool!!! :thumbsup:
 
If your IAC count is 10-15 at warm/hot idle and you still need pedal during cranking to get it to run, go into your cranking fuel and increase 'Crank IAC Mult' which will open the IAC more during starting to let more air in. Put the IAC count onto your 'large gages' and watch the # during cranking. 255 is max - so you can up the IAC Mult until you hit that during crank. My engine sees ~180 during cold cranking and sometimes needs a little more.
 
Phreakish said:
If your IAC count is 10-15 at warm/hot idle and you still need pedal during cranking to get it to run, go into your cranking fuel and increase 'Crank IAC Mult' which will open the IAC more during starting to let more air in. Put the IAC count onto your 'large gages' and watch the # during cranking. 255 is max - so you can up the IAC Mult until you hit that during crank. My engine sees ~180 during cold cranking and sometimes needs a little more.
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Thanks Phreakish,
I will give that a try after I get back from my business trip to Nashville.
 
I bought the 1200 hp one. I love it. Air fuel ration runs right where you put it. The hand held programmer looks cool and is easy to use.
 
FJ5 said:
I bought the 1200 hp one. I love it. Air fuel ration runs right where you put it. The hand held programmer looks cool and is easy to use.
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Liking mine as well. I just have to do a little "tweaking" and I am sure it's going to be good.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Any more updates? How is the tweaking going?
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I haven't done anything with it for the last month. I have been helping my buddy with his twin turbo 318 Dodge truck. I started a thread here for that here

T for 2
I plan on doing something with it soon but the weather is not getting any better so I will just work on the cold startup issues and then maybe try locking out my distributor and trying timing control.
 
marksmopar1 said:
Nice!!
Curious... Does the pump need to be the in-tank variety or can an external pump with return line work just as well? IM thinking on my 69 Dart, running the 71 tank with return line available and external pump. Any thoughts, maybe someone has the answer here
Thanks!, IM going to follow this one!
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I have a fast 2.0 in mine w/ an external pump and return lines. has worked very well so far. I put a new tank in, w/ 1/2" (hex shaped) pipe caps that I cut the end off of in my lathe, and had a real welder weld the on the bottom corners of the new tank. then just drove a tapered sharp punch in thru the open caps to where the holes were the same size as the caps. came out w/ dual shut off valves-then to dual 1/2" inline filters, then thru a y, and in to the pump. thru the frame and subframe connectors to the front where the pressure reg. and other f.i. stuff is mounted on the fender. the return goes back and ties in to the original tank 3/8 fuel nipple, w/ the sock cut off . the fuel gauge is a little slow, but appears to work correctly. easier than it sounds, but a little time consuming.--------bob
 
famous bob said:
I have a fast 2.0 in mine w/ an external pump and return lines. has worked very well so far. I put a new tank in, w/ 1/2" (hex shaped) pipe caps that I cut the end off of in my lathe, and had a real welder weld the on the bottom corners of the new tank. then just drove a tapered sharp punch in thru the open caps to where the holes were the same size as the caps. came out w/ dual shut off valves-then to dual 1/2" inline filters, then thru a y, and in to the pump. thru the frame and subframe connectors to the front where the pressure reg. and other f.i. stuff is mounted on the fender. the return goes back and ties in to the original tank 3/8 fuel nipple, w/ the sock cut off . the fuel gauge is a little slow, but appears to work correctly. easier than it sounds, but a little time consuming.--------bob
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They offer an inline pump (it's actually the same pump as the in tank pump without the tank mounting hardware). I have heard that people have had success with the external pump and I have also heard that others have had it burn up on them. I chose the in tank version because it's a lot quieter and the gas cools the pump. My original tank also had a dent in it so it was an easy decision for me.
 
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