J Head Porting How does it look?

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ValiantKindOfGuy

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Hey guys I just want to preface this by saying this is not my work. These are a set of J heads that came on a 340 in a parts car I bought. From my not cylinder head porting expert point of view. The “port” job doesn’t look fantastic. 2.08 valves, port/gasket match, some blending. That’s all it seems to have. Guys more knowledgeable than me what do you think? Also what’s with those holes between intake ports and suggestions for cleanup for use?. I tried to take as many of the best photos I could do let me know if you need more. I will be getting these flowed just out of curiosity.

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Look pretty good to me. The holes are the holes for the valve cover bolts. They won't hurt anything
 
Look pretty good to me for a street head
I was thinking they look alright but as we all know looking good doesn’t mean flowing good sadly lol. I’m going to have them flowed next weekend after a trip to the machine shop for some cleaning and machining. I’ll post the results for all to see but I just wanted a first impression before I even brought them to the machine shop and put some money into them. Think I should flow them before I put money into them? Lol
 
The holes are where your valve cover bolts go...it will be a vacuum leak if you don't seal them with a stud then you ca just smooth off the exess stud in the port...I'm not a head guy so cant comment on the porting...
 
The holes are where your valve cover bolts go...it will be a vacuum leak if you don't seal them with a stud then you ca just smooth off the exess stud in the port...I'm not a head guy so cant comment on the porting...
Gotcha. I figured but I didn’t want to sound stupid lol.
 
I was thinking they look alright but as we all know looking good doesn’t mean flowing good sadly lol. I’m going to have them flowed next weekend after a trip to the machine shop for some cleaning and machining. I’ll post the results for all to see but I just wanted a first impression before I even brought them to the machine shop and put some money into them. Think I should flow them before I put money into them? Lol
I've never flowed a head. I usually do "before and after" at the track. That's the real results.
 
The holes are where your valve cover bolts go...it will be a vacuum leak if you don't seal them with a stud then you ca just smooth off the exess stud in the port...I'm not a head guy so cant comment on the porting...
Naw, just put a little silicone on the bolt and tighten them normal. It'll be ok
 
I've never flowed a head. I usually do "before and after" at the track. That's the real results.
Absolutely that’s my usual as well. The only gains I look for is mph and maybe some ET. but as I have no before I figured it would give me an “idea”
 
The 2.08 valves didn't really help it any unless they were on a motor that got zinged out of it's mind. Even 2.02's are pretty much useless below 6K RPM. Hope they can fix the seats for you.
 
The 2.08 valves didn't really help it any unless they were on a motor that got zinged out of it's mind. Even 2.02's are pretty much useless below 6K RPM. Hope they can fix the seats for you.
I know. Don’t understand the use of a 2.08 especially with the setup that was run on this engine. I do plan to spin it pretty high so it’s better than the 1.88 but I still would prefer a 2.02-2.05. Plus I don’t think a 2.08 is helping anything on a basically stock port j head with a blend and port match lol.
 
Uh oh. They are getting a new valve job. Any chance I can remedy the issue?
Flow them, see 2 when they go turbulent and how big is the low lift... then re think your cam...or re work the heads.
I've seen where people, and myself have left a ledge there and everytime.. you see some reversion. You make flow better backwards when you leave any bulge or radius lip. Hard to explain
 
Uh oh. They are getting a new valve job. Any chance I can remedy the issue?


Yup. Don’t back cut the valves. No radius valve job on the intake port/valve.

As wide a top cut as you can get, and don’t worry about “sinking” the valves because the top cut is critical in ore ways than one. Also never ever top cut the intake valve. You can put a radius on the chamber side of the exhaust valve margin, but never ever do that to an intake valve.

Do anything you can to reduce reverse flow, some of which is what I posted above.
 
I’m starting to think of selling off a couple sets of heads and just biting the bullet now to get a decent set on the engine.
Re read my post.

Clean the dogleg side of the bowl and take a pic. I think you need to reshape right under the seat. It looks ramped or bulged. Overlap will go backwards if the shape is better than the exhaust ssr...which isnt hard because the exhaust ports suck. It could be the back cut, I have played with different angles, 30 is the norm...Ive done 25* and it picks up 4 cfm and cause a lot less problems like this.
 
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Here are a few more picture of the bowl and port. I hope this helps. I’m not anywhere near you guys when it comes to knowledge so excuse me if I misunderstand.

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