K-Member / Rack & Pinion Steering Suggestions

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Glad you're showing interest in what I am doing with the Valiant. I'll get you up to speed on it. Front to back; reinforced radiator core, j-bars from front of inner fenders to firewall, gusset from j-bar to shock mounting point, US Cartool under fender brace, subframe connector, 4 torque boxes, 1.24" torsion bars (I consider the torsion bars as structural as well as suspension), 6 point roll bar, and a fuel cell cage that ties the rear frames together.
As stated before, I am following the same vein as the Green and Red Bricks. I just wanted to build a torsion bar car.

The Valiant isn't completed yet but I have no doubt that it will be a beast and with so much research and reading posts from you and others I believe that I will have maximized the torsion bar system with the weight, drivetrain, and wheel and tire combo. I do honestly believe that it could not be improved upon by using any other suspension on the market, QA1, Alter-k-tion, HDK....

What I'm not going to do is say that, at least, the Alter-k-tion is inferior. I can't speak to the others but the Riley Motorsports piece has done everything I've wanted it to do. It handles like it's on freaking rails, it provides vast real estate for 1-7/8" header primaries and 3-1/2" collectors. It's tremendously easier to adjust ride height. The ability to adjust spring rate is much easier too. It's lighter. The welds are strong and beautiful unlike the criminal OEM k-frame.
It has it's value and I could care less that it is "based" on a MII. Nothing on the Alter-k-tion has any MII parts on it. The spindles aren't MII, they have Mopar ball joints, different steering points, harder steel. Someone questioned the lower control arm? They're better than MII and stronger than, at least, non-stiffened OEM LCA's.

Does anyone need a coilover suspension? No. But who needs 17" wheels? Who needs a sway bar? Who needs Fox shocks? I mean, the alternatives are cheaper? ****, who needs a hotrod? What is a hotrodder is a better question. Isn't a hotrodder someone who wants to try new things and do stuff different? Everyone has their own idea on what they want to do. Why try so hard to stop someone from doing different stuff? Love the passion from you but it is a little, EXTRA.



You need to. You need to if you are going to the extent of proselytizing the virtues of torsion bars when it comes to the cost aspect. Not everyone is a Billie Badass like you. Some people don't have the time, space, tools, or knowledge. Some people have one or a few and the one they don't keeps them from attaining all. Sometimes people just have the money. Who are we to say they can't play? My welding skills are minimal and I will not trust my life to my welds with my 120v equipment. I don't have the location for bodywork. I have knowledge and tools but I don't always have the time so my work goes really slow and sometimes it is worth it, to me, to pay someone to do some work.
You're so awesome, but please, don't hold everyone else to your standard. This is what you should be saying,


Now this looks like a great project!. If I may suggest a few things I would address with this build, check the LCA mounts in the K member. They are notorious for separating from the k-frame. Also, have someone turn the steering wheel while you look at the steering box mount. In most Mopars , you can actually see the deflection! A great place to look for metal fatigue as well. Gussetting helps bigtime. Please post some pics of your project. We all would like to see em!!
 
Man, I got weak in the knees when they started slicing up that beautiful / solid E-body.....the purist will have a heart attack!!!!.

Hey @HemiDenny, what are the road blocks to build a spindle for your setup that would use a late model Mustang wheel bearing setup?
 
I don't know that you'd need to do it that way. A billet hub could be made with any lug pattern that you want.
 
I don't know that you'd need to do it that way. A billet hub could be made with any lug pattern that you want.

I'm not worried about the bolt pattern, that isn't the reason for the question.

An off the shelf bolt in wheel bearing hub assembly would mean easier maintenance and (generally) the hub carries the tone ring for the speed sensor. And if setup right, all available brake options for a late model Mustang would be possible. Like carbon brakes off a GT350R or whatever.

Certainly a custom hub with a tone ring would be an option, just seems like the wheel bearing cartridge setup would be easier.
 
Yeah, I meant for the Mopar guy that wants to retain the 4.5 bolt circle, a billet hub made from aluminum could address the fitment issue to a Corvette Knuckle while accommodating a stock Mopar wheel.....even though no factory 14 or 15" wheel would fit! The advantage of the aftermarket setup always seems to include bigger brakes which won't allow the use of original wheel diameters.
 
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Yeah, I meant for the Mopar guy that wants to retain the 4.5 bolt circle, a billet hub made from aluminum could address the fitment issue to a Corvette Knuckle while accommodating a stock Mopar wheel.....even though no factory 14 or 15" wheel would fit!

Ah, gotcha. I misunderstood.
 
If I may suggest a few things I would address with this build, check the LCA mounts in the K member. They are notorious for separating from the k-frame. … Gussetting helps bigtime. Please post some pics of your project. We all would like to see em!!

Here’s the gusseted k-frame. I started with torching the seams and sand blasting. I popped the two halves open and burned more grease out. Finally got tanked. I used the Firm Feel gusset kit.

The torsion bar sockets are also going to be welded on the inside of the torsion bar crossmember. I will cut the floor open to access it.

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This is very true. I would just say that Blu "fervently" tries to educate people. He won't let it go.

con·tem·po·rar·y
/kənˈtempəˌrerē/
adjective
  1. belonging to or occurring in the present.
Maybe I'm wrong but I read it as the OP is looking for front suspension from a current, present day, manufacturer. Aftermarket.

No disrespect but I do think you are reading the OP wrong and to the extent that 72bluNblu should be commenting is in an "education" type of way and not spend too much time on persuasion. To me, the OP is clearly looking for a contemporary (aftermarket) suspension system.

Sorry, but an RMS AlterK IS an MII based system, and the original MII design goes back to the late 60's. Says so right in the description on the RMS website- "Brake kits are widely available for Mustang II spindles, so if you don't want to use the Wilwood kits we carry, you can easily choose your own brake kit from any aftermarket manufacturer". So, MII based spindles then yeah?

It probably has just as many contemporary parts as the torsion bar suspension on my car, of which only the spindles match the original design. Aftermarket and contemporary are not interchangeable, they mean different things. If all you're looking for is new parts, well yeah, everything in my torsion bar suspension is aftermarket and new except the spindles themselves. But neither it nor the RMS, or HDK, or Gerst, or any of the other coilover conversions out there are truly contemporary designs. Which is fine, just don't think it's some new fancy thing.

The basic double wishbone suspension has been around since the 1930's. Same for torsion bars. MacPherson struts? Debuted in the 1950 Ford Consul. Very little in suspension design is actually brand new.

Know what’s funny? The Contemporary Formula 1 cars running the last 15 + years are, you guessed it using Torsion Bars. Granted the bars are only about 6 inches long, but nonetheless, they are torsion bars.

F1 uses 18" wheels now too! Torsion bars and 18" wheels, imagine that. Porsches used the heck out torsion bars too for a lot of years. Brand new Pierce Enforcers have torsion bar suspension, hows that for contemporary? TAK-4® Independent Front Suspension System | Pierce Mfg

And a C7 'Vette uses a transverse leaf spring in the back. Now there's an old idea. But it's composite now so it's fancy. :D

Here’s the gusseted k-frame. I started with torching the seams and sand blasting. I popped the two halves open and burned more grease out. Finally got tanked. I used the Firm Feel gusset kit.

The torsion bar sockets are also going to be welded on the inside of the torsion bar crossmember. I will cut the floor open to access it.

View attachment 1715939918 View attachment 1715939919 View attachment 1715939929 View attachment 1715939931 View attachment 1715939933 View attachment 1715939936

Wait, I thought the OP wanted a "contemporary" system? Like, not torsion bars. That's what you said. So, you get to talk up torsion bars and post up pictures of your torsion bar suspension, but if I do I'm the bad guy?

There's really no need to open up the torsion bar crossmember if it's solid. If the welds on the outside have good penetration then welding the inside doesn't do anything for you. Same really for the K, although if you have issues with the LCA pivot tubes you do have to open the K to get to the forward end of the those if the welds have broken loose.

I just degreased and pressure washed the K's for my cars. From a welding standpoint I had more issues with porosity in the factory welds bleeding over into my welds when I went over the originals than I did with grease contamination. But I wasn't going to grind out all the factory welds and start completely over.

This is the K from my EL5 '71 GT, after I cleaned it up (again, no hot tanking, no sandblasting, just some degreaser and a scrub brush, followed by some pressure washing.) The factory welds are pretty bad
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After I seam welded, gusseted, and went over the factory welds. Between my Dart and my Duster one of them got a Firm Feel gusset kit, the other one I just made all the gussets myself. They're pretty self explanatory anyway.
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Hey @HemiDenny, what are the road blocks to build a spindle for your setup that would use a late model Mustang wheel bearing setup?

to build a spindle it just takes $$$....and the sales to support the investment. I have several spindles I would build but last I checked, an order / purchased of 1K is laughed at.

However, as long as it is a front steer spindle, I'm not so sure that it wouldn't as simple as to build the control arms with the required ball joint receiver(s)

What is the application (yr / make/ model) of the spindle you prefer?...I'll check it out
 
I have several spindles I would build but last I checked, an order / purchased of 1K is laughed at.

These are ~ $800 so I could see a $1000 for Mopar ball jointed C5/C6 hubs with a 5x4.5" bolt pattern and reluctor rings to use Mustang ABS.

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Here’s the gusseted k-frame. I started with torching the seams and sand blasting. I popped the two halves open and burned more grease out. Finally got tanked. I used the Firm Feel gusset kit.

The torsion bar sockets are also going to be welded on the inside of the torsion bar crossmember. I will cut the floor open to access it.

View attachment 1715939918 View attachment 1715939919 View attachment 1715939929 View attachment 1715939931 View attachment 1715939933 View attachment 1715939936

Looks awesome!

Great improvement!
 
What is the application (yr / make/ model) of the spindle you prefer?...I'll check it out

Too funny. Makes me laugh at some of the assumptions I make at times.

I guess I was thinking something like a 2014 Mustang, but when I went to look at a spindle for one I discovered that 1) they use a strut and 2) they have a stub and not a bolt on wheel bearing hub assembly. I thought the Mustang had gone to a bolt on cartridge assembly like the C5 or C6 Vette, but they never did. I also thought they got rid of the struts in the later models and it looks like they are still using it.

So (in my mind), the idea of using a Mustang part to make the bolt pattern easy is out the window unless some kind of adapter could be made to use an upper ball joint on a strut spindle.

And I am a fan of keeping wear items like wheels bearings unmodified. That way if you have to replace a part for some reason, you just go to the auto parts store and buy it and bolt it on. Modified or custom hubs mean you have to wait for the original supplier to send you a new one or find a place to machine yours. I set up my BBK to use off the shelf Cobra rotors for this reason.

I guess a C5/6 spindle and wheel bearing/hub could be used if someone didn't care if they needed to get custom axles with a GM bolt pattern for the rear and buy all new wheels. But my gut says that an off the shelf Vette spindle won't work and it would require a custom spindle that accepts the Vette wheel bearing.
 


I didn't watch the whole thing, but I think it proves my point from Post #65. A couple of GM guys talking about how a Mopar can only go straight and how they have to replace the suspension to make it handle. I am sure there suspension is very sophisticated and I know it isn't a GM based system but is completely new. Might be a huge step, pretty impressive the size of tire they said they could get in there. But (to me) it shows the general bias that if it is old it is bad and has to be replaced.

<<shake my head>> White knuckle to pass a semi? Sorry, not ever in my Duster. Even when it was stock.
 
These are ~ $800 so I could see a $1000 for Mopar ball jointed C5/C6 hubs with a 5x4.5" bolt pattern and reluctor rings to use Mustang ABS.

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Ok so I need more education.

I'm looking at these upper control arms with locking/jam nuts on the inner mounts. How reliable are these? Looks to me that it could be very sketchy if one of those jam nuts were to back off. Do you really get a lot of use out of the adjustments in the real world? Is this something you would fool with after the car is dialled in? I would think the eccentrics would be enough .

As always , I stand to be corrected/properly informed!!

Cheers!
 



This car was at Moparty last year. I happened to park next to the giant toter it was in and when they started unloading I immediately thought it looked amazing. I later see all of the crazy suspension work and hoped it would be on the auto-x track to see how it performed. It never did. It was a display item for the speedtech booth. After looking the car over, I feel like the missed the mark on several things. The biggest one would be wheel selection. Why do all that crazy suspension work and put wheels on it that are about 3-4" inside the fender. It looked terrible. There were also some finishes on the inside that I felt were low quality compared to the "high end" suspension work.
 
Ok so I need more education.

I'm looking at these upper control arms with locking/jam nuts on the inner mounts. How reliable are these? Looks to me that it could be very sketchy if one of those jam nuts were to back off. Do you really get a lot of use out of the adjustments in the real world? Is this something you would fool with after the car is dialled in? I would think the eccentrics would be enough .

As always , I stand to be corrected/properly informed!!

Cheers!


These would be best suited for someone that is tracking their car often. Alignment is much quicker since you don't have to deal with the eccentric bolts. I'm sure they also offer much more caster and camber too.
 
Too funny. Makes me laugh at some of the assumptions I make at times.

I guess I was thinking something like a 2014 Mustang, but when I went to look at a spindle for one I discovered that 1) they use a strut and 2) they have a stub and not a bolt on wheel bearing hub assembly. I thought the Mustang had gone to a bolt on cartridge assembly like the C5 or C6 Vette, but they never did. I also thought they got rid of the struts in the later models and it looks like they are still using it.

So (in my mind), the idea of using a Mustang part to make the bolt pattern easy is out the window unless some kind of adapter could be made to use an upper ball joint on a strut spindle.

And I am a fan of keeping wear items like wheels bearings unmodified. That way if you have to replace a part for some reason, you just go to the auto parts store and buy it and bolt it on. Modified or custom hubs mean you have to wait for the original supplier to send you a new one or find a place to machine yours. I set up my BBK to use off the shelf Cobra rotors for this reason.

I guess a C5/6 spindle and wheel bearing/hub could be used if someone didn't care if they needed to get custom axles with a GM bolt pattern for the rear and buy all new wheels. But my gut says that an off the shelf Vette spindle won't work and it would require a custom spindle that accepts the Vette wheel bearing.


Which begs the question from me.....What is wrong with the '78 Mustang II spindle, there are numerous brake kits available with the only limit being what someone wants to spend.
 
Which begs the question from me.....What is wrong with the '78 Mustang II spindle, there are numerous brake kits available with the only limit being what someone wants to spend.

The brakes where not the draw for me, just a “cheap” bonus. I figured that a bolt on cartridge wheel bearing and hub was an advantage, but I guess it isn’t as broadly used as I thought.

The real draw for me is a speed sensor. All late models have then on the hub, and the Vette one is actually enclosed in the cartridge. I guess I wouldn’t be surprised if the MII hubs have an option, haven’t looked. But that was the big grab for me, the option to have an OEM option for ABS/TC without having to resort to custom hubs that might or might not need to be replaced as some point.
 
Ok so I need more education.

I'm looking at these upper control arms with locking/jam nuts on the inner mounts. How reliable are these? Looks to me that it could be very sketchy if one of those jam nuts were to back off. Do you really get a lot of use out of the adjustments in the real world? Is this something you would fool with after the car is dialled in? I would think the eccentrics would be enough .

As always , I stand to be corrected/properly informed!!

Cheers!

I've never had an issue with one of those jam nuts coming loose. Torque to spec. A couple drops of loctite would be fine for peace of mind, but I don't use any. You'd actually need to have BOTH jam nuts come loose for the setting to change, and then the adjuster would have to turn too.

And yes, the adjustments do help a lot in the real world. The camber bolts are only good for like +/- 1.3° if I remember right. Which is why without offset bushings most folk struggle with getting more than a couple degrees of + caster. With the SPC control arms you have a much larger adjustable range. Like I run +6.5° of caster and -1° of camber and I have a ton of adjustment left still. And changing the alignment is a lot easier.

Do I fool with it now that I have it dialed in? No, not really. But I'm not doing events or track days. It's something you could change from one track to another if you knew the track and your car. But, in the process of dialing it in I've run everywhere from -.5° of camber and +3.5° of caster all the way up to -1.5° of camber and +8° of caster. So I settled on my current specs after running through a large range of adjustment. Now granted not all of that was with the SPC's, I started with 73+ UCA's and offset bushings and used a non adjustable set of tubular UCA's before going to the SPC's. But with the SPC's I could have done all of it without ever changing out suspension components.

Which begs the question from me.....What is wrong with the '78 Mustang II spindle, there are numerous brake kits available with the only limit being what someone wants to spend.

Nothing is really "wrong" with the MII spindle, it's actually a super adaptable suspension which is why it's been adopted by the hot rodding world so wholeheartedly. But it's the wrong question - what's wrong with the '73 A-body Mopar spindle? Or the FMJ spindle? While some of the aftermarket support is new (which is awesome!), there are lots of brake options for them now too.

So, what is the '78 MII spindle doing for you that you can't do with a '73+ Mopar spindle? First one is easy, it's set up for rear steer so a rack and pinion works without terrible Ackerman or an impossible steering shaft angle. Got it.

But what does the camber gain look like? How does it change the roll center? What does it do for your bump steer? Or yeah, turning radius?

And if you're using the A-body UCA mounting points and UCA's, well, you're already keeping a significant amount of Mopar suspension geometry. So what is improving, other than getting a rack and some header clearance?

And that's the thing I don't see anyone talk about. Or publish, for that matter. If the suspension geometry was so much better, why not publish that information? Why not have detailed analysis of all the ways a coil-over conversion will handle better?

That's the bottom line for me. A coil-over conversion gets you a rack and pinion and some header space. The downside is it loads the Mopar chassis in a way that's different than what is was designed for, and that's not a small thing (although it can be addressed). Are there some geometry changes? Yes. But like anything, there are pros and cons. And that gets back to what Peter said, most of the people buying HDK's, or AlterK's, aren't doing it because they understand the differences in suspension geometry. They see a rack a pinion, they see coil overs, and they're more familiar with those things than with torsion bars. They see a complete package they can just write a check for instead of doing some research to understand the suspension they've got and what they can do to improve it.

And I'm not trying to single out the MII spindle, the same can be asked of the Corvette spindle based suspension too. What does it actually get you? I can get 15" rotors with GT500 calipers for a 73+ Mopar spindle if brakes are the only thing. How does that system improve the suspension geometry, and therefore the handling of the car? Or, is it just shiny new parts that sound cool? "Yeah, it's got a full suspension conversion using Corvette spindles". Cool, but if it doesn't handle any better than a Mopar with torsion bars and 73+ spindles, what's the point? Although I'm sure there are already B/E body guys lining up to buy that suspension, got to be the most expensive, latest and greatest. And very few of them probably have any idea about why it's actually better, IF it actually is.
 
Maybe I misinterpreted DionR. I was thinking he wanted the newer spindle because of brake availability, possibly what is "used" out there. Just my guess /assumption.

72 bluNblu is correct.....but the point (from the customers / builders) of all rack and pinion / coil over conversions are.
1) room not only for headers clearance but larger engine applications
2) weight savings
3) compact modern rack and pinion steering

geometry rarely comes up, it is more about the ease of achieving increased caster (6 degrees positive, piece of cake), the ability to add crazy camber (auto X) and of course hub to hub width. HDK's exclusive, time proven (now 25 years / zero failures) upper shock mount / chromoly support allows for not only a longer shock / spring combination, but a narrow hub to hub. Adjustable ends on all control arms make it possible to not only fit off the shelf rims, but specialty wheels a customer might already own.

As far as turning radius....HDK uses out of the box spindles, so turning radius is not compromised as with those that modify / lengthen the steering arm.

I own both OEM (with HDK tubular uppers) and HDK personal Dusters and drive them back to back. Both have power steering, sway bars and fresh components with the same alignment specs (6 degrees positive caster / .25 degree negative camber on pass side / .50 negative camber on the driver side / 1/8" total toe. All specs with added 3/4" front ride height . While I have no problem with torsion bars vs coil springs except they are in the way, I still like the precise steering of the rack and pinion, not to mention additional benefits listed above.

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Thanks for the education Guys! Very informative!

Hemi-Denny nailed it for me. 120+ pounds of weight savings, greater accessibility in the engine compartment and very easy to assemble/disassemble . Way better steering feel. After speaking with Bill Reilly, I'm satisfied the geometry is great for my needs. (again not suggesting it can't be done with the stock setup). I can't speak for anyone else but , trust me, I didn't spend all this money converting because it "looked pretty" . BTW I don't have any issue with steering shaft angle. See below as the shaft uses a universal provided in the kit. No binding and works great.

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Not to sidetrack this too much but I went back over the articles written by E-Berg of Mopar Action last night (who hates aftermarket suspensions BTW.) and he addresses an interesting point. Modifying the rear suspension after the mods to the front suspension. I am running the Street-Lynx setup and I have no issues with it at all. I drive my car agressively mainly on some very twisty backroads where I can really get a feel for the car and how it handles. I have done multible changes to the compression/rebound settings of the Viking double adjustable coil over shocks and I now have the car to where I like it. Richard discussses "plowing " when autocrossing and the use of an alternate shock to help control axle wind-up on leaf spring cars when drag racing. This article was publsihed in 1996 so I'm thinking a lot has changed since. How do you suggest modifying the rear suspension after modifying the stock T-Bar front suspension?

Cheers!!
 
Maybe I misinterpreted DionR. I was thinking he wanted the newer spindle because of brake availability, possibly what is "used" out there. Just my guess /assumption.

All good, but yes you misunderstood. The idea that captured my imagination was the potential for ABS and traction control.
 
120+ pounds of weight savings…

That seems like a huge exaggeration to me. If anything, I would guess that the Reilly kit isn’t much lighter compared to an OEM k-frame setup and similar in weight to a QA1 k-frame. And the HDK is probably similar in weight to the stock setup when the full hoop setup is included. But just my guess. Maybe you meant 12 pounds? Anything to back up that 120+ pound savings?
 
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