k-member reinforcement

Suspension, Steering and Chassis

  1. 72bluNblu

    72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    No problem!

    I sent you an email with the pictures as well, my scanner is apparently toast so I couldn't scan my templates. They're super easy to make.

    I bought my first kit from Firm Feel for my '71 GT's K frame. It works great, but the plates are fairly generic so they required some fitting, grinding and bending anyway. So when I did my spool mount K for my Duster I just made my own, its simple. Idaho's pictures do an even better job of showing what the plates look like and how they get welded in. The steering box reinforcement that goes on the front is the only one that you really have to check, that one has to be flush with the steering box mount and you have to watch that it also doesn't go to far forward because of the way that the steering box angles down. I'd definitely tack weld that one in place and check the fit before welding it in solid. I was fine on the biscuit mount K I did, but the one for my spool mount interfered. :eek:ops:

    If you're using adjustable strut rods I don't think you need the strut rod reinforcements. All of the adjustable strut rods I've seen use a large, heavy spacer on the side that the reinforcement goes on anyway. That would do exactly the same thing as the reinforcement, and its already accounted for in the length of the strut rod.
     
  2. 72BBSwinger

    72BBSwinger Well-Known Member

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    Here is mine that I did a couple years ago. I have since removed the d-side engine mount tower completely and made it Gen III Hemi friendly.
     

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  3. moparmat2000

    moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Did you use a spring U bolt for a tow hook?
     
  4. moparmat2000

    moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    If you're using adjustable strut rods I don't think you need the strut rod reinforcements. All of the adjustable strut rods I've seen use a large, heavy spacer on the side that the reinforcement goes on anyway. That would do exactly the same thing as the reinforcement, and its already accounted for in the length of the strut rod.[/QUOTE]

    I test fitted my dillinger strut rods, and know i cant washer up in that area with the heim end strut rods.

    The washers i was asking about are the reinforcement ones where the lower control arms bolt into the K frame. How thick are these? I took the tubes that are pressed in and tack welded for the LCA 's on the K frame and just rosette welded em in tight.

    Matt
     
  5. 72_dart

    72_dart Well-Known Member

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    It's my understanding that that the washers your talking about are the cut ones that go on the lca side of the k member not on the nut side they are fairly thick. Sorry for the pictures not being oriented correctly but this is the only way I could get it to upload. .197 or 5 mm
     

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  6. 72bluNblu

    72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Yeah the LCA pivot tube reinforcement washers are pretty thick, the ones that came with my FFI kit were 3/16". I don't think they necessarily have to be that thick, even an 1/8" would be pretty helpful. Those tubes weren't welded in very well from the factory at all, and even just going over the factory welds and fully welding them in would help a lot. I reinforced the ones on mine though, it doesn't just help keep the tube in place but also strengthens the wall of the K frame there to keep the K from flexing any around the tube. Since the LCA pivot tube isn't well supported on the inside of the K frame or at the opposite end, it's kind of like a cantilever. So the better the K is reinforced there the less movement they'll be on the other end.

    On my first one I used the FFI supplied "washers". The inner diameter of the supplied "washers" is actually 1 1/8". So, on the second one I did I just bought some heavy duty 1 1/8" grade 8 washers from the hardware store and cut them to fit around the LCA pivots. The ones I used were pretty close to 3/16" thick.
     
  7. Idaho

    Idaho Well-Known Member

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    Yes.
     
  8. 72_dart

    72_dart Well-Known Member

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    All the pieces that came with the firm feel kit are different thickness. The skid plate, the sliver and the teardrop shaped pieces are all about an 1/8 th thick the triangle with the curve inside is actually a little thinner (.10) the cut washers are thick 5 mm the strut rod washers are thinner than the cut washers but are thicker than everything else. Sorry I didn't measure those.

    Is the tube supposed to get welded in the hole for the pivot pins? I thought that the tube was part of the lca bushing.
     
  9. 72bluNblu

    72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    There's a tube inside the K frame that the LCA pivot slides into, it gets welded in. The LCA bushing itself also has a metal shell, but that part goes in the LCA.

    You can see the tube in the K frame for the LCA pivot here

    [​IMG]
     
  10. VCS

    VCS 1968 dart 270

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    Hi, I'm about to reinforce my kmember. Could you post a link to your build thread? TIA.
     
  11. Dartnut

    Dartnut Don't hate me because i'm beautiful

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    Thank you for your interest.
    The link is at the bottom of my post in the light blue script.
    ''I'm going to fix it up someday'' The resurrection of a '74 Dart Sport......
    If you want to search it.........
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2020
  12. VCS

    VCS 1968 dart 270

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    Thank you.
     
  13. AndyF

    AndyF Well-Known Member

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    I boxed in the front ends on my K frame to add strength as well as add a tie down point.
    DSC_3200 (Large).JPG
     
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    • Dartnut

      Dartnut Don't hate me because i'm beautiful

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      Now that's a good idea!
       
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