K member setup

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clementine

clementine

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Hello FABO!
Working on a 67 barracuda fastback BB (383) 4 speed.
The last time i slid my passenger T bar in, i was reminded of a patch weld i put in when i didn't know any better. As a result the LCA is slightly canted up and the T bar needs too much coaxing to go in. So for now I'm just leaving it to be able to finish the build on the car, but in the back of my mind, i know this will have to be addressed. I picked up this later K member hoping to kill some birds.
1. Getting rid of 'one year only ' 67 idler.
2. Hopefully gain better pitman arm to header clearance and get rid of driver side motor mount spacer.
3. Have proper T bar installation.

When attempting to achieve these goals I'm looking for intel on....
1. Does this K member require a different center link to run with a different pitman arm? Does this change require a different steering box?

I have parts like LCAs, UCAs and spindles, so my plan would be to build this, looking DEEECENT, and do a K member swap. I have adjustable struts and would consider adjustable UCAs. I have some Kelsey Hayes and converted BBP discs to throw on as well.

So, center link, pitman arm (and will it solve my header clearance problem?) Obviously idler will change.

Thanks FABO! You guys n gals rule!
20210701_163245.jpg
 
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Later k frames used later pitman's and later idler arms, steering box stayed the same, bolts up the same.
 
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MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Later k frames used later pitman's and later idler arms, steering box stayed the same, bolts up the same.
Real late ones have lateral torsion bars
Click to expand...
Does the pitman arm distal end ball joint point down by chance? That might cure my header clearance issue.

Thanks!
 
That K-member looks to be the '68-72 version. Should be a bolt in with the '68-72 idler arm. No other changes should be necessary. I doubt there will be an improvement in header clearance. Now when you get to the BBP brakes, you'll need to change the upper control arms too, or get the tapered adaptors and use your existing UCA's. If you're going to use the stock Kelsey Hayes brakes, just change everything from the spindles out when converting from drum.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Say again?
Click to expand...
I deleted those pics from my phone, darnit! Is the end of the later pitman arm (not the bend, but the tapered shaft that goes into the center link) point up through the center link? or down? I am not sure if they are all the same.
 
From '68-72, yes, '73-6 uses a different center link, idler, and Pitman.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Later k frames used later pitman's and later idler arms, steering box stayed the same, bolts up the same.
Real late ones have lateral torsion bars
Click to expand...

A-bodies never had the lateral (transverse) torsion bars. Though the volaries and aspens looked much like an A-body, they are in fact F-bodies.
 
Ok. So,Ill need a 68-72 center link, pitman arm and idler for this 68-72 K member. I have a 67 center link, pitman and idler at this point.

Thank you fellas.
 
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^^There are 4 pieces that must all match, regardless of K member year excepting 67 because of the odd idler

The pitman must fit the steering box splines (large or small) and those plus the idler and center link must be same year range as above ^^ 68--72 or 73 / later. This is independent of K member years IE you can use the earlier parts on the later K and vise versa. 67 K idler arm is the oddity, but some have re-worked those to take a 68/ later idler

If you already have all the pieces to fit the 67 all you need is a 68 idler to put those pieces all onto a 68--72 OR a 73/ later K
 
The pitman arm is the same from '67-72 regardless of steering gear (if it's a stock box)
 
Awesome. I can use my 67 pitman arm. and will need a 68-72 idler and center link. Clear as day.

Thanks from the slow guy over here.
 
Thanks for your patience. I see the answers further up in this post now re reading.
 
I like holding that engine up with a cherry picker instead, but, without one, it's still doable if you're careful where and how you support the engine.
 
cudamark said:
I like holding that engine up with a cherry picker instead, but, without one, it's still doable if you're careful where and how you support the engine.
Click to expand...
i have too, but i don't like it. i picture the jack blowing a seal. and if i'm going to add some sort of prop rod just in case, i might as well just use the engine support
 
I just put a bunch of rags on the inner fenders, put a 4x4 across with jack boards from 2x4's down to the frame rails. I don't recall I guess I used a cherry picker to pick up the engine, then chained it to that 4x4 for safety, then removed the cherry picker as the car was on the hoist. There were photos on here if I can find them
 
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