K&W block seal

-
pishta

pishta

I know I'm right....
Joined
Oct 13, 2004
Messages
23,821
Reaction score
13,676
Location
Tustin, CA
Ill do a review of this can of sand....
401016.jpg

patient is my beater Mazda. The guy cut the head too much and now Im still getting a few drips from the head gasket area. So, I got a week to kill and I never drive the thing so Im going to give this product the test.
First impression is the stuff settles in the can something fierce. Its like beach sand at the bottom of a bucket of seawater. The instructions say to shake it, but that aint gonna cut it. You have to get in there with a pushrod to break up the cement and make it pourable. Its still has clumps of stuff so I say use a mixer and beat it pretty good so you end up with the media totally dissolved in the liquid. It says to add it to 3 quarts of warm water and pour it into a drained system with the thermostat removed, then top with water. You must top off the system so it will leak and fill the faults. you them idle for 30 minutes and then let cool and drain. Let it set up for 24 hours, then re-stat, refill with coolant and cross your fingers. Ill be the first to admit this isnt a permanent fix, but I may just scrap this truck anyway so I thought Id give it a shot. I let the tags expire so Im on the hook for $100 registration fee penalty. • $100 CHP penalty. • 160% of the VLF due for that year or 160% of the weight fee due for that year, if any.
 
I used some block sealer in a BMW several years back. Got the car for $500 and a new gasket and related parts would be another $500. Used the sealer and drove that car everyday for a year and even put some nitrous through it to went from 15.30s to 14.20s with a dry shot. Car still ran great when I sold it.
 
I've heard of people using black pepper to achieve the same results. I myself have not tried pepper, but did have success with block sealer once upon a time.
 
Sold a lot of K&W in the 70's and 80's when I owned a parts store. Had many happy customers that said it worked. But it is all relative to the intial problem. If you knock a hole in the block , it won't work. If you forgot to put the wrist pin clips in your 68 340, it won't work ( found out when we tore it apart later). Head gaskets or small cracks in a head or cylinder, yes it will work.
 
JDMopar said:
I've heard of people using black pepper to achieve the same results. I myself have not tried pepper, but did have success with block sealer once upon a time.
Click to expand...

A guy at work tried the black pepper it didn't work. And another guy tells him to put a raw egg in the radiator. It didn't work.
We called him the Gourmet mechanic.
 
Ive recently use a product called K Seal. Daughters 2000 Camry 2.2 4 cyl leaked at the waterpump gasket. It was January and below zero when i noticed. (recent purchase) I could see the droplets form at the paper gasket to housing area. So I poured in the stuff and the leak eventually stopped. That said a weeping/leaking paper water pump gasket is about the PERFECT scenario for this type of product to work. For $15 Ill take it. Head gasket leak? Man thats an awful big challenge. Hope I dont have to try it.
 
well this one is somewhat unique in that you have to drain all antifreeze (flush until clear water) and then let the product circulate for 30, then you drain whats left of the product and let whats left 'cure' for 24 hours. They even tell you to remove the plugs (and unplug injector) in the suspect leaking cylinder (.."if your cylinder is leaking water, youll notice a orange glaze on spark plug tip..") and idle the beast with that plug removed! Then its button up, put your stat back in and refill with coolant without a flush. Id suggest you drain it at the block taps because I suspect it will become hard-block if you just drain the radiator. Well see this afternoon. They had a product called "Blue Devil" that was $65 a bottle, pretty much the last resort pour in fix. I think the used car salesmen buy that stuff by the barrel.
 
as others said YMMV....
my 90 Shelby was pissing out the head gasket on to the right shock tower, while i was working a summer job WAY in the north woods of MN, 700 miles from home. like the entireoverflow bottle in 15miles leak. bars stop leak (metallic flake) got me by for the next two weeks and the drive home so i could fix it. desperate times...

that said going by the KW directions that is significantly more than "pour in", it at least "appears" to have a better chance of holding.
 
i used it on a '64 fury 361 that had an 8" freeze crack in the side of the block. it worked, but you have to make sure there's no anti freeze left in the cooling system. Flush the block out really good after it has run.
 
Liquid Glass also known as Egg Sealer was used the same way. Remove the therostat and antifreeze an so on.
You could get it at a hardware store back in the 70s. It would seal a cracked block.
 
well, didnt have time today but tomorrow will be the test. 48 hour cure cant be worse than a 24 hr cure.
 
Glad to hear its working. There is a market for these products. I know repair shops are against it but so many own cars with values under say $1600 and a head gasket replace isnt worth it.
 
Sold a fair amount of that stuff too. Mixed results, but if used as directed, it might work. Leaks to external parts seems to work better.
I just used bar’s leak sealer on a caravan 3.8 that would misfire right at startup. Was dribbling coolant into #3. Too many miles for head gaskets.
 
It's wacky ,but it flat works.... Dumped a can ,in a Mazda 1800 truck mill.. Just trucked on.... until I pulled the head ,to port it...
 
I use it to coat press in valve guides such as on the big block Chevy. Woirks great for that.
 
I had the head on my Cat 3406E repaired (crack) and it came back from the shop with a can of KW block sealer...no warranty unless you used it.
 
So we can give this product 2 thumbs up... Sounds like it's legit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top