Kb190 Pistons And Eddy Heads

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Depends on where it is at right now and where it is suppose to be. I would imagine it is suppose to have 108 degree centerline. Move it to 110, it will give it more mid grunt than high end. Also recheck after that. I dont think 2 degrees either way is going to solve the problem completely.

Then when you see where you are at notch the pistons for more valve relief.

Every off the shelf piston i have ever used, seemed the valve reliefs were too little and alot of the times not even properly located.
 
If you have a 3 key way sprocket on the crank, it is possible you put it in the wrong one. It's a very easy thing to do. There not exactly marked clear.
 
ok not affraid to admit it had the crank gear all fucked up it was lined up but not at tdc so i took it all of turned the crank over thanks to milodons special tool love it... till #1 tcd cam gear was way off at least 180 feel stuipid about that little screw up lined it all up put the head on clayed it and same thing about 1/4 clay mol adjusted rockers rotated it 4 times pulled it back apart and the clay in the valve reliefts had a very slight indent if and just a little knick..and as for piston clearance couldnt get a accurate measurement but going to do it one more time just to double verify
 
ok did it 3 times just to double check.... got over 0.100 clearance on both valves cut the clay down the center to look at the relation between valve and piston and it looks ok quite a bit of diffrence between them so not worried about the reliefs as for the head clearance looks to be right at 0.040 thats with 0.038 gaskets compressed so i might just to be safe order some 0.045 gaskets just for extra security...

i also just want to thank everybody that has helped me this is my first motor build learning as i go..and rumblefish you are right those markings are very hard to see but no excuse i should have double checked before i started freaking out.. but any way now im just really excited..

one more Q what is going to be a good gasket to run with the cast block and aluminum heads composite i would suppose but whats a good gasket to go with??
 
I think the thicker gasket is a good idea , some things to think about, unless you have a very tight piston to cyl wall clearance and most street builds dont you will have a certain amount of piston rocking motion especially at higher rpms and also a fresh build also has tighter clearances that will loosen up as wear happens add in thermal expansion it only makes sense to er on the safe side. Good luck with your build.
 
HEY! No probelm, these things happen. I did it last cam swap. 20 years palyin around with these thigs and ya think I"D know better.

I'd be OK with the clearance you have. However, IF your in need for peace of mind to have a bit more, Fel-Pro does make a .50 -.053 or something thick gasket.

Costom orders from Cometic can be done for a ($$$!) price.


I was trying to look around the web for head gaskets and there thickness', but I came up empty handed.
 
.038 piston to head clearance is fine with a steel connecting rod. My engine has .028 piston to head clearance and I twist it 7500 with no problems. You can probably get by with as little as .025 but that's probably pushing it.
 
First, congradulations on your success. Patience is hard to develop and you did what you needed to and reaped the results. Excellent. On the gaskets, I would stay with what you have. It's perfect. Now that the cam's in properly I think you will be rather happy with the build. Keep up the good work!
 
Yes yes yes, Congrads are in order!!!!!

Guitar runs his close and Moper and I agree on what yo have now is good.

To much space and you'll loose any quench bennifit. That would be a step in the wrong direction.
 
JimmyV said:
ok i clayed my cylinders this morning and have a bout 0.038-0.039 clearance for piston so i can allways get bigger gaskets to bring that up while i was in there i clayed valves on one cylinder just to check if the cam i had was going to work. i layed about a 1/4 peace of clay on both valve reliefs and rotated then it stoped so i didnt force it i pulled all back apart and found that my intake valve completly compressed the clay and the exhause valve barely touched it so the intakes is obviously going to hit the piston i have the comp cams 294s cam .525 lift and 294 duration my question for you guys is cam recomendtaions other then this one since it is obciously to big for the set up i currently have.. and here are the details 360 0.060 over kb190 pistons with the eddy open chamber heads victor intake and headers arp everything what cam woudl you guys recomend that i run with that set up??? that you might know off hand that will work so i dont order it get it and still does the same thing any ideahs guys?? i want to run solid too
Click to expand...

The best part is you proved your measuring and math theory!
 
Have not been on here in a while but just wanted to let you guys know that i got my motor all together and fired it up..sounds great cam break in went great motor sounds really good. Got timing all set and re adjusted valves again all loosend up a little bit not bad though..fixed a leaky water pump and took it for its first drive in 8 years!!!!! Now just go to tweak with the carb and timing to get it just right but took it around the block and it was awsome lots of power and left some nice black marks in front of my house too. Any way just wanted to thank everybody again for all there help
 
Looking foward to a time slip! Looks like fun!
 
I know this is an older thread. I am building a 360 with kb 190s slightly less compression. What were you running for gas with this motor? any updates? Time slips? Eventual problems with build?
 
A lot will depend on the cam your running. Got a spec on it or part number?

A bigger cam can use / get away with more compression. If your cam is really a big one for the street or a strip only like type of cam, the 93 could be used. But it has to be a fairly large cam without a doubt. No stock 340 cam here! :)
 
damn its been like 8 years since all this!!! motor ran well for about 3 months..then i lost #7 cam lobe for some un known reason... put a new cam in and its still running strong all these years laster!!! but man i have learned a lot and reading through some of this im surprised i ever got it running lol..motor still runs great and is basically the same..i did upgrade to fuel injection though last year!
 
F’in A my man! Good deal!
What F.I. did you install?
Your running the Comp 294S still?
Time slip report?
Glad you came back to update this old thread.
 
rumblefish360 said:
F’in A my man! Good deal!
What F.I. did you install?
Your running the Comp 294S still?
Time slip report?
Glad you came back to update this old thread.
Click to expand...


I went with the Fitech 600 unit..been on for almost a year.. no problems to report with it so far..no time slips..i built most of this car when i was in high school and it needs a lot of changes to be track worthy...i decided to build a dedicated race truck and keep the duster for a nice cruiser..yes, still running the 294s
 
JimmyV said:
ok did it 3 times just to double check.... got over 0.100 clearance on both valves cut the clay down the center to look at the relation between valve and piston and it looks ok quite a bit of diffrence between them so not worried about the reliefs as for the head clearance looks to be right at 0.040 thats with 0.038 gaskets compressed so i might just to be safe order some 0.045 gaskets just for extra security...

i also just want to thank everybody that has helped me this is my first motor build learning as i go..and rumblefish you are right those markings are very hard to see but no excuse i should have double checked before i started freaking out.. but any way now im just really excited..

one more Q what is going to be a good gasket to run with the cast block and aluminum heads composite i would suppose but whats a good gasket to go with??
Click to expand...
I have been running a piston to head clearance of .035 to .032, since 1999 and over 100,000 miles, with a 360+.040, KB107s, and Closed chamber Eddies; with up to .549/.571 lift and up to 292/292/110 cam, with Dcrs from 8.6 to 9.0.
Jus saying
Edit
Oh I forgot to mention; all combos have been run exclusively on 87E10, and the engine was apart 5 times for inspections and continuing mods;with 2004 being the last time.
 
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