Kframe, engine bay, front suspension questions

Mopar General Discussions

  1. 4spdragtop

    4spdragtop CONGRATS NORTH AMERICA! FABO Gold Member

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    Wasnt sure which sub forum to post in, as everything I do seems to "domino".
    I have "roller" front suspension removed from our 69. I removed rust and primed/painted and bedliner the pass side inner fender(outboard side). Drivers side is stripped and getting prepped.
    I would like to paint engine bay once I clear out the rest of engine bay. It's been seam sealed and about 95% "ready" for paint.
    Once bay has been painted i would like to install restored kframe and suspension.
    So, painting engine bay....I can get an exact match in aerosol from Dupont for $42/can, 69 F8 Green. Not sure how many cans to do the bay and both outboard sides of inner fenders? OR do I paint gun it? We have neighbors directly on either side of us, so overspray and fumes may/probably will be an issue if I "gun" it.
    So spray or gun?
    Keep in mind I am trying to simply assemble and make progress while putting refurb parts on car(free up space). All while trying to make it more presentable for sale.
    I would like it to look respectable tho.
    Next the suspension.....is there an order of install for torsion bars forward? It's on axle stands now with most of the front suspension off.
    I guess to sum up, should I rattle can or spray the bay? Keep in mind neighbours and a virgin sprayer lol.
    Also order of assembly for refurb kframe and front suspension?
    Pics as it is now.
    Lol grandson Knox giving me a hand, can see him wondering wth have you done Papa!! Lol
    Thanks
    Steve

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    Last edited: Jun 27, 2021
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    • Mtrhead

      Mtrhead Ace of Spades ♠️

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      Fixing to do same on 71 duster FY1...was told if I used a can to use 2k clear afterwards...I really need to know the same thing

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      • kursplat

        kursplat FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        if you rattle can it, probably 3 cans will do you, that's about what i ended up using on mine. i did not have the engine out. if it was, probably would have used another can getting into the trans tunnel a bit, and around the frame rails better. i also didn't wet sand it. wish i had but i'll re-do that better when the motor comes out someday. also, do a test piece first and make sure the color looks right.
        i ended up doing a lot more than i originally planned :rolleyes:
         
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        • 72bluNblu

          72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          I’d use a spray gun on the engine compartment. The smell isn’t going to be that much worse, and the paint will be much better. Plus if you haven’t used a spray gun before the engine compartment is a good place to practice. You need to mask stuff for rattle cans too if you’re going to do it right, but you will need to do a better job of masking for spray.

          As for the front end, the K frame has to go in first. Then the lower control arms, leave the pivot bolt nuts loose and leave the adjuster bolts either completely loose or out entirely. If you have non-adjustable strut rods slide them in but don’t tighten anything. If you have adjustable strut rods that use a bolt through the LCA you can leave them out, if you have the kind with a double adjuster (QA1) then slide those in but don’t tighten anything. Really if you want you can install the LCA’s and strut rods on the K before you put it in place, but if you don’t have a nice K frame stand or extra help it just makes the K heavier and lining up the K frame bolts a little more problematic. Then the torsion bars, stock LCA’s should be hanging all the way down to do that.

          Once the torsion bars are in you can install the UCA’s and spindles. Really the UCA’s can go in whenever, I leave them out until now because they’re out of the way. Spindles after the torsion bars though. If you have poly bushings you can tighten everything at this point and adjust the adjustable strut rods, with the torsion bar adjusting plates out you can cycle the suspension and check for binding and adjust the length. With rubber bushings you need to put the suspension at ride height before you tighten everything. Shocks can go in afterwards, they can go in before things are fully torqued if you’re going to set it down to determine ride height and torque the nuts with rubber bushings. If you know the position of the suspension at your desired ride height you don’t actually have to put the car on the ground to torque everything, just hold the suspension at that position, say by setting the LCA on an extra jack stand, block, whatever. If you do it that way though you do need to make the position you torque the suspension at the finished ride height, otherwise you can tear those rubber bushings. Steering stuff can go in last, unless of course you’re installing the K with the engine installed on it in which case the steering box should be on it before the engine.

          I probably forgot something in there, you can always refer to the FSM especially if you’re using stock parts and rubber bushings. For aftermarket parts and poly bushings some of the FSM stuff doesn’t apply.
           
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          • Dicer

            Dicer Back Bone beats Wish Bone all the time. FABO Gold Member

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            Use the paint gun, way better control you can tighthen the fan of the paint spray when you get into areas you cannot reach so well. Spray can you cannot adjust the width or if you need to spray up or down , left or right. Some paint stores do use a spray can that has a square nozzle that can be rotated to help you....paint gun for me.
             
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            • RustyRatRod

              RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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              You get over spray and fumes either way. Screw the neighbors.
               
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              • Murray

                Murray FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                I have done this. I recommend buying an inexpensive low pressure gun (about $160). This was my first time spaying, rather intimidating (I am a mechanic not a body man). These are low pressure - so very little over spray. Now you can spray from bulk pre-mixed single stage paint. Now that I have the gun, I can shoot paint or primer in any custom color. I say- go for it!
                 
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                • 4spdragtop

                  4spdragtop CONGRATS NORTH AMERICA! FABO Gold Member

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                  It looks like yours had metallic in the paint? I'm wondering about doing a few coats seperately? (Tiger striping with metallic) Yours turned out good!:thumbsup:
                   
                  Last edited: Jun 27, 2021
                • kursplat

                  kursplat FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Automotive Touchup is where i got the paint. they custom mix it and let you pick how you want it, rattle can, pint can, ect. i think AT actually got a better match for the cars original finish (FF-1 MIST GREEN POLY) than the body shop did. the outside ended up darker, with no flake in it. not a complaint though, wasn't going for a resto, and i love the color on it. also the engine and trunk are darker than they look, pics are a little washed out due to the flash. i actually like the difference in color in the trunk / engine areas. it's just enough to make it pop but no where near like having a black engine compartment with a different color car.
                  edit: this stuff is 2 stage paint so you do need to top coat it with their clearcoat
                   
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                  • Oldmanmopar

                    Oldmanmopar Going left turning right FABO Gold Member

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                    15 dollar gun at harbor freight. Base coat does not tiger stripe. My son never paints he did this for me because of my Throat cancer at the time. Now he's a pro. Clear within 24 hrs though to prevent having to scuff it.

                    suspension ? Put as much together as you can. I used to put the engine and trans under the car. Pull it up with a engine hoist and then put the suspension under it. You can put everything on even the wire harness. Then just plug it in. Now I have more equipment so the process changed since I was younger

                    Also did you know you can put your own paint in an aerosol can and charge it with 90 PSI. and keep using that can. There are several videos on this here is one.


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                    • 74 DART'

                      74 DART' Well-Known Member

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                      Steve can you give me your thoughts on the bed liner you used. What did you use ? How did you like it? Was it a spray? And my car has some factory undercoat on the inner fenders. Thinking I should remove all the undercoating down to bare metal. Glad your making some progress!
                       
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                      • Bodyperson

                        Bodyperson Pedal to the metal FABO Gold Member

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                        I dont understand Steve. Its seems you are wanting to sell the convertible as a project. Is that the case?
                         
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                        • 4spdragtop

                          4spdragtop CONGRATS NORTH AMERICA! FABO Gold Member

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                          Thanks all for the replies and advice, all is appreciated.
                          #1. Neighbours are CLOSE. See pic, you can see their red/white part of their house, between the shop and my shelter.
                          I have "maybe" 4 feet to push car back deeper in shop. That's it. OR I can wheel 69 into shelter and paint in it? Its 12x20.
                          I realize overspray is gonna happen no matter what, but a spray bomb I can stop and let it "disperse" somewhat. With a gun I dont think "stop n start" is a good thing?? I dunno. I just know the costs of stuff is gonna add up and I don't want to waste anything within reason of course.
                          I do have a gun I bought years ago cheap.
                          Portercable.
                          Thanks for the detailed instruction on kframe and suspension assembly. I have to check what all I have for bushings etc.
                          @74 DART' , here is a pic of drivers side, it shows the general condition of what pass side was like. Very nice really. New inner fenders. Some very minor surface rust. I scuffed what i could for rust with wire wheel or 3m abrasive. For hard to reach areas or seams. I used Krudkutter. Works awesome. Its thick and stays on vertical surfaces. Spot prime with Dominion Sure Seal.
                          At 1st glance I'm happy with how everything turned out so far, 2 coats of Armor Coat and then 2 of the Rustoleum Bedliner. I was tempted and still am to spray some body color onto it. That brings me to where I am now, with engine bay near empty needing paint and tempted to do inner wheel wells....spray or gun...lol. I like the looks of it, I haven't swung a wrench at it yet(give it time lol) to check durability, but seems ok so far.
                          @Bodyperson , yes I am wanting to sell it. I have a LOT of stuff refurbished/organized etc, so by me assembling some of what I have "ready", it may help it sell. At least its helping me free up some much needed space both physical and mental.
                          Thanks again all.
                          Also thanks guys for detailed front end assembly info!:thumbsup:


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                          Last edited: Jun 27, 2021
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                          • 74 DART'

                            74 DART' Well-Known Member

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                            Thanks for the info. Looks like it turned out great. You had a nice car to start with also
                             
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                            • Bodyperson

                              Bodyperson Pedal to the metal FABO Gold Member

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                              I totally understand. Mentally is a big drain too. I have tons of broken down shit around here. It weighs on you.
                              NOW. From a seasoned car flipper, restorer kind of guy, I like my shit original or bare. Foo foo stuff turns me off. I cant trust other peoples work. Thats how I roll. Not saying you do hack work but I would have to undo your work to please me. Others might not feel the same way.
                              Just saying man. I hope the best for your selling of the Barracuda.
                               
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                              • dano

                                dano Evil Handy Man

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                                A word of caution on using bed liner or heavy undercoating. Where the A arms attach to the body, the rough texture of these and Poly bushings do not play well, it will tear up the bushings. If using stock its probably not a problem as they have thre steel caps. I had this issue and had to sand out those areas smooth and grease them up.
                                 
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                                • jaws

                                  jaws I put the fun in dysfunctional FABO Gold Member

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                                  Be quicker and a better job with the gun and base/ clear. Not that much over spray.
                                   
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                                  • 4spdragtop

                                    4spdragtop CONGRATS NORTH AMERICA! FABO Gold Member

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                                    Thanks again all, BP, I hear what you're saying but I have to make room, boat and Dads 67(been parked offsite for 3 years now). So I figured some more half asked unskilled labor, some parts I've acquired and restored for it and a little more $$ helps in many ways. I figured while inner wheel wells and engine bay is empty to paint. More to preserve the clean metal than anything. From what I've done imo it hasnt detracted from the value of the car.(hopefully lol)
                                    @dano here are the UCA and LCA bushings. I believe oem style, I installed these years ago lol. Thanks for the heads up, I'll make sure to scrape bedliner off where it will be an issue. I did tape off mount holes prior to spraying the bedliner.
                                    Also heres a pic of other bushings I have to install yet. 1st 2 pics are upper, 3rd is lca.
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                                  • dano

                                    dano Evil Handy Man

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                                    Looks like you'll be OK. The ply bushings with no shield really get chewed up, especially if there are large, hard chunks like you find in some bed liners.

                                    Stock rubber deflects, that's why you toque at ride height and full weight on the suspension and should come back and loosen and re-torque after a few miles for the body to settle (typically if you have an all new suspension). Plastic bushings (delrin, urethane, etc.) pivot about the bushing, so they need smooth surfaces and lubricated. The upside if you can torque them at any height or weight because they pivot.
                                     
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                                    • CFD244

                                      CFD244 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                      I brushed on some 2k epoxy since I have the same reservations that you have regarding spraying. This protects my metal, gives it a clean look, and can be lightly sanded and sprayed with more primer, or top coat by the new owner (which is what I plan on doing when it is ready for paint). And, since it is 2k, hopefully more durable than rattle can.

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                                      • toplscuda

                                        toplscuda Well-Known Member

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                                        Spray it with a gun. A HVLP like you have will not produce much in the way of overspray, If you base/clear it it dries fast. I have about 10ft from my garage to the neighbors garage and did not have an issue when I sprayed my engine bay. I do have cool neighbors that do not complain about the work I do on the car so that does help.
                                         
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                                        • 72bluNblu

                                          72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                          I wouldn’t even mess with clear. A single stage paint is just fine. And in this case, it means one less episode for the neighbors to possibly complain about.
                                           
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                                          • 4spdragtop

                                            4spdragtop CONGRATS NORTH AMERICA! FABO Gold Member

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                                            So I went cheapie route, for now anyway. 1 can is $42. Gun paint and bomb are both single stage, so no clear either way. I'll do the wheel well(s), and if I run shy I'll order another bomb.
                                            To go gun paint it would have been $150/quart. $235 plus tax with reducer and activator. Dupont paint I believe. I'll install kframe and "new" components. Tape them off later if/when I decide to paint it.
                                             
                                            Last edited: Jun 28, 2021
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                                            • 4spdragtop

                                              4spdragtop CONGRATS NORTH AMERICA! FABO Gold Member

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                                              Went and picked up $41 spray bomb from Refinish Systems in Peterborough, also Napa. Actual paint is from Axalta, not sure what line??
                                              I put 3 coats on overtop of bedliner with 5-10 minute between coats. 1st coat 10" out, then closer for each coat. Last coat approx 6" away. I was hoping for a bit better coverage,(approx 1/2 can left). But i got the effect I wanted.
                                              Paint is still wet, it may darken, we will see.
                                              WTH?? "no cum guide"??:bs_flag:

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                                              • Bodyperson

                                                Bodyperson Pedal to the metal FABO Gold Member

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                                                Must be something about cumulative. Like if they overdose on one pigment and have to make it up with other pigments. Pretty funny though. Keep up the good work. You might end up restoring the thing.
                                                 
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