Kickdown Linkage vs Cable for my Setup

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Dodge72

Odd one out
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Oh, what does this gal want now! :D

I've got me a 360, and my setup is going to be a LD340 with an Edelbrock 1406, backed up to a stock 904. When I originally grabbed parts I got myself a factory kickdown linkage and the little adapter plate for the Edelbrock. It's not a high rise intake or anything like that, but will this factory setup be acceptable or would running a cable be better? What do people like more? Thanks!
 
If you have access to stock 4 barrel parts i would do that but if not Lokar is a great route.

Jake
Oh, what does this gal want now! :D

I've got me a 360, and my setup is going to be a LD340 with an Edelbrock 1406, backed up to a stock 904. When I originally grabbed parts I got myself a factory kickdown linkage and the little adapter plate for the Edelbrock. It's not a high rise intake or anything like that, but will this factory setup be acceptable or would running a cable be better? What do people like more? Thanks!
 
Stock kickdown linkage here. My car was a slant 6. Went to a 360 and thermoquad. Had a hard time finding a kickdown. I recall going to my local pick n pull. Went through several trucks and cars. Soon realized truck kickdowns were not going to work. Finally came across a mid 70's dodge Aspen and low and behold it had a thermoquad and kickdown still complete! I quickly removed it and till this day 18 years later my dart sport has same linkage set up!:)
 
Lokar is costly, but quality
Do it once, do it right
 
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A lot of users who have switched to the cable complain about throttle pedal pressure afterwards. I've figure out that a lot of the factory's original engineering is really hard to out do. Kind of like reinventing the wheel.
 
Factory 4 barrel stuff would be best. You can modify it as needed. Also you can use some lower parts from a "M" body because they have an adjustment on the lower rod going to the valve body. It can be a battle but it will work.
 
Linkage.
A buddy had his cable arrangement melt on headers and we couldn't fix it at the track.
That experience made me leery of going cable if theres a choice.
 
Linkage.
A buddy had his cable arrangement melt on headers and we couldn't fix it at the track.
That experience made me leery of going cable if theres a choice.
You know your not supposed to wrap them around the headers, right?
Kinda like ratchet shifter cables
 
I agree. If you are able to get the CORRECT linkage, go for it. But if you are going to have to cobble some cave woman BS together, go with the cable.
 
If you decide on the cable style, like Lokar, just be aware that it may cause your throttle pressure effort to increase. May not be much of an issue with an unmodified valve body in the trans, but something to consider: if you are using a Transgo shift kit (or plan to install one later) they come with a heavier spring for the kickdown valve in the valve body and that will increase the throttle pedal effort required. Thin inner cable diameter and flexible sheath with the heavier spring in the vb causes flex/compression of the kickdown cable as you press on the throttle. It’s nowhere near as positive as the linkage type. Proper routing and lube didn’t help on two different vehicles I’ve tried it on. Looking to replace it with the oem linkage.
 
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What these guys said below is exactly the deal.
I did not have the factory parts and sourcing them is/was pricey. I used the Lokar cables.

On throttle and line pressure, it’s not a big deal.
YOU! Adjust the transmission line pressure. EZ stuff.

Start with a helper under the car. While your up top, have the helper hold the transmission lines arm still in the relaxed position. Up top, take up the slack, then give a 1/4 inch slack. You should be good from there. Minor adjustments can be made from up top quick and easy.

No tension should be on the cable pulling the transmission line pressure arm at rest. Only minor slack.
You will feel how the transmission shifts. If it shifts a bit higher in the rpm range vs what it used to do, you have added pressure, add slack.
If it shifts a bit quick and soft, add tension. Not enough line pressure.
Once your good with how it works, twist that Allen head into the cables lock block real good and it’s set and will not move.


If you have access to stock 4 barrel parts i would do that but if not Lokar is a great route.

Jake
I agree. If you are able to get the CORRECT linkage, go for it. But if you are going to have to cobble some cave woman BS together, go with the cable.
 
Bouchillon performance also makes a cable kit (pricey) that comes with everything to make the throttle pressure correct and or correct the geometry. Been running it for probably 20 years now. Works better than the factory linkage unless your after the factory look. (Just another suggestion to look at)
 
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