Kind of strange intake fitment problem...

-
metallidart

metallidart

member me?
Joined
Jan 19, 2009
Messages
1,485
Reaction score
54
Location
East Palestine, Ohio
Ever have an intake hitting a priority main oiling line?

I was just mocking my 422 up, laying the parts on it just to see what it looks like basically, and I noticed that the back of my intake would not go down.

I have a 422 stroker/1970 340 block. Decks cut parallel, main studs/girdle and alignhoned. bored/plate honed, bushed lifter bores, priority main oiling and other oiling mods. The previous owner built the shortblock, and I got the receipts for everything. Since it was very low miles/runs, I didn't tear it all the way down so I don't know exactly what has been done to the oiling system. I do know he didn't spare any expense when he was building it. All forged bottom end, h-beams, JE pistons, Fluidamper, etc all balanced.

I have a cam that is getting reground by Bullit, it will be .604/.600 lift 245/252@.050. I forget the rest of the specs off hand. Its a solid roller.

Set of Edelbrock RPM heads that I'll probably port myself and have a good valve job/guides checked. Crane Gold rockers, etc.

Questions are...
1.) Should I keep the Victor 340 and remove the priority main line, just install some plugs and make it a stock-style oiling system?
2.) Would an Air-gap, or even a Strip Dominator, be a better intake for my combo?
3.) Should I look a little closer, determine the amount of clearance I would need, and if I can, grind away at the bottom of the intake?

The intake valley drops way down on this intake. The runners/plenum are raised away from the intake, so the only thing I would have to worry about are cracks from getting too thin, or oil leaks.

Please give me some input!

BTW, the car is a 1973 Dart Sport 340, 904trans with a 3400 stall, and I haven't decided on a gear yet, I think I just want to go with a 3.55.
 
I would not remove the tube. Usualy when this oil mod is done there is a plug drove in the right front oil galley blocking the oil to #1 main. Oil is now feed to #1 main by the left side. I would see about some different fittings or a an style line. I dont think this oil mod is a need with bushed lifter bores.
 
When I bought the short block, I questioned him about the need for the line also. he said that All I'd have to do is take the line off and plug the holes, but now I'm not so sure...I'm really not positive on what was done to the oiling system, so just from what you said I am afraid to mess up the oiling system and hurt the engine. I'll try to find a pic of the line that is on it.
 
DSCF1348.jpg
 
Them look like 90 degree fittings, they are supposed to be 45 degree. That is the an style line I was talking about. I run a strip dominator on mine I will have to check and see if my victor 340 clears. Mine has the copper line in it. If I get a chance tommorow I will pull the s/d and compare.
 
Cool! Thank you! They are 90 degree lines, I think (Christmas was today for me, I had my kids and they woke me up WAY too early, so I'm almost delusional from being tired). Wouldn't 45 degree lines make it even higher? I'm sure it would flow easier though. And, the copper line would take up alot less room. I'd love to find a Strip Dominator, I had one on my old 360 and I loved it. I've never used a Victor, I hope it matches my combo good.

Thank you rumblefish! I'm gonna take a look at that right now. I never looked into the oiling system, just kind of took it for granted.
 
Your welcome. I found out the hard way that the SB Mopar doesn't like 7,000 rpm's with out help.
That mod may not be needed with your cams RPM band, but, then again, I wouldn't remove it myself. Next cam up or two could use that oiling help.
 
I would try and find another line and fitting combination that fits under your intake. Brass fittings and metal line is likely more compact than aluminum and braided. Others have done it with that intake. That is a good intake. Try to make it work.
 
I'll take a closer look at it today, I'll bet you are right about the lines/fittings. Those big an fittings stick up pretty far. Also, I don't have any gaskets on it, I know it won't be much higher, but with the head/intake gaskets that will give it a little more room. Only a tiny bit tho. I like the intake, and the ocd in me wanted all Edelbrock on the top half.

Rumble, I haven't sent the cam out yet, just in the email process still with Bullit. What do you think the RPM range with that cam is with my cid/combo? Right now the cam is a crane solid roller, .630/.630 lift, 260/266 @ .050, I can't remember the other specs but it is a pretty big cam lol. I thought it may be a little much with home ported eddies and 3.55 or 3.73 gears. Any thoughts?
 
If you know what the heads floe that would help. I would suggest discussing the build with the cam manufacturer. They should help you get a good match to your engine and your goals. The Crane cam duration specs mentioned are fairly radical and will likely have a rough idle and poor low end performance.
 
Rumble, I haven't sent the cam out yet, just in the email process still with Bullit. What do you think the RPM range with that cam is with my cid/combo? Right now the cam is a crane solid roller, .630/.630 lift, 260/266 @ .050, I can't remember the other specs but it is a pretty big cam lol. I thought it may be a little much with home ported eddies and 3.55 or 3.73 gears. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

For me, that 260 @ 050 is the start of big cam territory. Big stall and 4.56's on a 28 X 10 tire to start. When you get a new cam, let me know. Your talking with Bullet about a cam? He'll do ya good.
 
Here are the specs they emailed me for the cam regrind:
Adv Duration = 278/285
Duration @ .050 = 245/252
lift with 1.5 ratio = .604/.600
lobe separation = 108
intake centerline = 104
Glad to hear Bullet makes some good cams! His suggestion was right on the dot with what I wanted.

I got the big ol Crane back when I was going to run my Indy heads, but I decided all of that was a little overkill for my goals. So, I got the Edelbrocks and re-thought my top end with a lot less budget in mind. My heads will flow at least as good as the stock Edelbrocks, I hope lol.

When I got the cam recommendation, I told them I was hoping to have about 33-3500 stall, 3.55 or 3.73 gears, and a 26-27 inch tire. I thought the cam specs he gave me would compliment the already-built shortblock and my intake/heads/headers well. Does it sound like it will work well to you guys?
 
Looks like you have 90degree fitting going onto an A/N to NPT fitting.
If you use a 45degree NPT to A/N fitting that will lower the overall height of the hose.
I have seen # 6 A/N 90 degree fittings with male NPT threads, that would lower the height the most.
 
I'll have to look into that, it sounds like it might work. I may take the line out of it tomorrow and see what I can do, its hard to visualize it for me even with the picture in front of me. Thanks!
 
metallidart said:
Here are the specs they emailed me for the cam regrind:
Adv Duration = 278/285
Duration @ .050 = 245/252
lift with 1.5 ratio = .604/.600
lobe separation = 108
intake centerline = 104
Glad to hear Bullet makes some good cams! His suggestion was right on the dot with what I wanted.

I got the big ol Crane back when I was going to run my Indy heads, but I decided all of that was a little overkill for my goals. So, I got the Edelbrocks and re-thought my top end with a lot less budget in mind. My heads will flow at least as good as the stock Edelbrocks, I hope lol.

When I got the cam recommendation, I told them I was hoping to have about 33-3500 stall, 3.55 or 3.73 gears, and a 26-27 inch tire. I thought the cam specs he gave me would compliment the already-built shortblock and my intake/heads/headers well. Does it sound like it will work well to you guys?
Click to expand...

I've used similar specs on a hydraulic roller with less overall lift, more overall duration, but similar .050 duration numbers. I'd expect it will idle under 1000 pretty well and it won't run power brakes. But, you don't have to worry about "soft" low end... Not until you start really exceeding the 260° @ .050 number will you have any problems with low end. If you build with quench, set the static around 11:1 and .035 or less quench you will love it. Typically the 4" strokes like a 3.23 or 3.55 gear, and you will want a tight convertor, something close to 2500 with those small tires. Peak torque comes on quick so a convertor that's much higher you're just wasting fuel and generating heat unless you're doing 70mph in 3rd.
 
Thanks moper! Thats some info I've been looking for. And, honestly, exactly what I wanted to hear! As for the fitment issue, my work car took a crap today so I've been messing with it...and posting parts for sale so I can afford to fix it. Stupid Chevy!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top