Late Auto Crank to early Manual Spigot

[Cal Tonsley]

Just wondering what part # spigot bush do I need to use in a 69 Five Welch Plug 2806830 Block with auto crank to bolt up a 62 3speed manual trans?
Thanks in advance.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

"Spigot bush" ? "69 Five welsh plug" ? "Block auto crank" ? The only thing that I can picture is the "62 3spd. trans". Sorry for not getting this post. But I am sure most that try to understand what you are talking about are just as confused as I am. Sounds like you may be talking about a "input shaft bushing" But still confused. Pictures may help you get an answer.

 

[65 Dartman]

"Spigot bush" ? "69 Five welsh plug" ? "Block auto crank" ? The only thing that I can picture is the "62 3spd. trans". Sorry for not getting this post.

Them Aussies definitely use different terminology than we do in the US! To the OP, sorry if I get it wrong! spigot bush- bushing; 69 5 Welch plug - 69 slant with the 5 freeze plugs; block auto crank - motor came with an automatic.

to the OP contact @Charrlie_S for the crank bushing. If it’s needed to add your 3 speed, he’ll let you know.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

The early flywheel won't fit the later year large register crankshaft. Take the flywheel to a machine shop and open the center to the later crank register size.
1968 is when they changed to a larger register.

 

[moparmat2000]

G'day Mate,

I fixed it for ya

I think Cal is asking about fitting a manual trans crank pilot bushing on a 69 slant 6 that uses 5 core plugs in the block. Concerned about crankshafts rear bore diameter for a pilot bushing since engine was originally attached to an auto trans. And wants attaching it to a 62 3 speed manual

 

[Oldmanmopar]

G'day Mate,

I fixed it for ya

I think Cal is asking about fitting a manual trans crank pilot bushing on a 69 slant 6 that uses 5 core plugs in the block. Concerned about crankshafts rear bore diameter for a pilot bushing since engine was originally attached to an auto trans. And wants attaching it to a 62 3 speed manual

Now I get it. They used to make two different outside Dia. bushings available at NAPA. One was for going from a auto motor to a stick that the crank was not machined to fit the standard size bushing. You can make the standard fit cutting it down and adding a taper but you will need to ream the bushing after you install it because if to tight going in. it will make the inside a lot smaller

They also made a bearing and bushing that fit a crank that wasn't drilled at all. But to use this you needed to cut the input shaft shorter on the trans

 

[Cal Tonsley]

G'day Mate,

I fixed it for ya

I think Cal is asking about fitting a manual trans crank pilot bushing on a 69 slant 6 that uses 5 core plugs in the block. Concerned about crankshafts rear bore diameter for a pilot bushing since engine was originally attached to an auto trans. And wants attaching it to a 62 3 speed manual

Thanks for translating LOL, apologies for the confusion.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

Then just buy a bushing, they all are the same input pilot diameter on 3/4 spds.
Some cranks arent drilled deep enough, in that case you can either 'try' to drill it deeper or lop about an inch off the input so that only about 3/4" to 7/8" of it is riding in the bushing . I have a couple like that. Some did it for the crate motors as well, shallow pilot. There is a bearing style you can use that sits in the crank register as well. Your mopar dealer can get it for you for about 20 bucks

 

[moparmat2000]

I have also seen for V8s a pilot bushing that's O.D. is already sized for a crank that's not drilled up to size for a normal O.D. pilot bushing. I believe I have one of those somewhere.

 

[pishta]

NAPA made a roller bearing to adapt a manual to an auto crank. T-Flite paddy (SP?) made a bushing to make a small snout auto convertor fit a larger bore >67 crank. Not sure if you need a special roller but I bet the roller bearing would work.
check out these part numbers and see if they call out any critical dimensions that you are seeing:

Pilot bushings
Standard. .941 I.D. ~ .750 I.D.
Napa-Balkanp 615-1026
Federal Mogul PB286HD

Undersized N/A
.914 I.D. ~ .750 I.D.
Napa 615-1034

Pilot needle bearing
Bower PCA FC69907
National Bearing FC-69907
Mopar 53009180AB
MP P5007051

 

[Cal Tonsley]

NAPA made a roller bearing to adapt a manual to an auto crank. T-Flite paddy (SP?) made a bushing to make a small snout auto convertor fit a larger bore >67 crank. Not sure if you need a special roller but I bet the roller bearing would work.
check out these part numbers and see if they call out any critical dimensions that you are seeing:

Pilot bushings
Standard. .941 I.D. ~ .750 I.D.
Napa-Balkanp 615-1026
Federal Mogul PB286HD

Undersized N/A
.914 I.D. ~ .750 I.D.
Napa 615-1034

Pilot needle bearing
Bower PCA FC69907
National Bearing FC-69907
Mopar 53009180AB
MP P5007051

Thanks that’s exactly the info I was looking for, much appreciated!

 

[RustyRatRod]

I got what you were saying right off, Cal, but let's clarify a little. Welch plugs and freeze plugs are different. Yall may clump them all into one name down there, I don't know. A welch plug does not have the "wall" around the perimeter of the plug. It is a convex plug that fit into the casting holes in the block, but they are for blocks with a stepped recess, such as the early Hemi. They install against the stepped ridge and then, you take a hammer and place it on the center of the convex area and flatten it using a second hammer. This flattening action causes the welch plug to expand and locks it into position. Of course, a little sealant is applied, much like a freeze plug. The freeze plug is for a hole without a step, like the LA or B series engines and had the wall around the perimeter. They are simply a press fit without the step. Sometimes the terms freeze plug and welch plug are used interchangeably, although that's technically not correct.

 

[Cal Tonsley]

I got what you were saying right off, Cal, but let's clarify a little. Welch plugs and freeze plugs are different. Yall may clump them all into one name down there, I don't know. A welch plug does not have the "wall" around the perimeter of the plug. It is a convex plug that fit into the casting holes in the block, but they are for blocks with a stepped recess, such as the early Hemi. They install against the stepped ridge and then, you take a hammer and place it on the center of the convex area and flatten it using a second hammer. This flattening action causes the welch plug to expand and locks it into position. Of course, a little sealant is applied, much like a freeze plug. The freeze plug is for a hole without a step, like the LA or B series engines and had the wall around the perimeter. They are simply a press fit without the step. Sometimes the terms freeze plug and welch plug are used interchangeably, although that's technically not correct.

Yes thanks for clarifying, only problem here in Australia is that it never freezes ....lol so we only call them welch plugs!

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yes thanks for clarifying, only problem here in Australia is that it never freezes ....lol so we only call them welch plugs!

Truthfully, neither of them are made for freezing. All their purpose is, is to block the casting holes up. That's all. If you get lucky enough that a freeze pops a plug out, instead of freeze busts a block, you did just that. Got lucky.

 

[Killer6]

As MOPAROFFICIAL stated, You'll have to machine the Flywheel ID to fit the newer crank, mainly because there aren't any later flywheels compatible w/that trans/bellhousing. As Rusty stated, core-hole plugs, that's all..... As Pish stated get the roller, but since You've got the later crank, the later/Magnum roller insert would be ideal. Goes in the converter-hub register. Good luck with the install!