Late shifts after new torque converter.

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George Jets said:
Yes the Band Adjustment would be the same with the Transgo shift kit.

Want to get some help from a mopar person to adjust the 2 bands, or get a good manual that shows how to do it properly. Good youtube videos on the subject too.

Careful not to leave the bands too tight, that can screw up your trans.

Anyhow if it was working good with the stock converter, bands are probably not the issue right now.
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Yeah, the only things I could think of are when the trans came out it pulled on the kickdown lever hard and it slid off the Jack when it was all the way down but didn't fall far, just off the Jack. Also, could removing and installing the torque converter have done anything?
 
Also my original issue is still there, why am I running 3000 rpm at 65 when it should be about 2500?
 
OK you changed out to the 2500 stall converter to help build some rpm and get the engine a little more up in the power band when you take off to go with your new cam.

The tall rear end gears are taxing the low end power of your engine too.

Just curious what your driving habbits are and main use of the car.

I had a 69 stock 318 with a eddy 600 on it 727 trans with the Transgo Shift Kit, and 2.94 rear gears. That was the perfect setup for cruising and driving and still had great all around getup and go.

Could pass anyone I wanted to out on the freeway at 70 + mph.

That 318 had geat low end torque with the stock cam and the Edelbrock 4 bbl. So Happy with that one just the way it was.
 
It's a 71 dart, just a fun car. Cruise it and occasionally take it ti the 1/8 mile track. It's got plenty of low end torque. The cam is from 1000-5200 rpm so nothing crazy. I actually think the converter stalls a little lower than the advertised 2500 but that's fine. Pulls hard but with I had 3.23 or 3.55 gears.
 
George Jets said:
Are you Positive you have 2.76 gears in it, sounds more like 3.23s with the rpms you are running at 65 mph.
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Did the jack up rear, stop one wheel, move the other 2 times and the drive shaft moved 2 and 3/4 times. The tag on the axle says 2.76 also.
 
He asked about the fluid color probably to find out if it was contaminated with trans particles; not to make sure you had nice new clean fluid to operate the trans. Knowing you changed the fluid and filter, the question then becomes, "What was in the pan and were there particles stuck in the filter; when you took it apart?" But without a delayed reverse, I condemn the valve body.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
He asked about the fluid color probably to find out if it was contaminated with trans particles; not to make sure you had nice new clean fluid to operate the trans. Knowing you changed the fluid and filter, the question then becomes, "What was in the pan and were there particles stuck in the filter; when you took it apart?" But without a delayed reverse, I condemn the valve body.
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Almost no particles in the pan when I changed it before the torque converter. When I took it for a test drive it was still low on fluid about 3 quarts. Only went around the block before I added more. I could drain the pan and see if there is anything there now. Hopefully I didn't burn something out. I added 8.5 quarts but forgot the deep pan adds 2 more quarts.
 
If it didn't slip then you didn't hurt it. If it slipped trying to go into third, it could've burnt the direct clutch and caused this problem, but that will almost ALWAYS give you a delayed reverse. It's possible that clutch burned but the heat dished the plates so that took up the clearance needed for reverse; but very unlikely.
 
I know you don't want to take that pan off cuz you fear the unknown. Well, it will all be known by the time this is over.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
I know you don't want to take that pan off cuz you fear the unknown. Well, it will all be known by the time this is over.
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Actually I don't mind taking it off, I just don't want to buy another gasket and crawl under the car since I was under there all weekend. When I get a chance I'll drain it and pull it if that's what I need to do. I was hoping something may have been out of adjustment.
 
If you're using an aluminum pan, sometimes you can reuse the gasket. Or just buy the cheapest one available. I only use the Duprene red fiber gasket on tin pans, but anything on an aluminum pan.
 
LivewireBlanco said:
Almost no particles in the pan when I changed it before the torque converter. When I took it for a test drive it was still low on fluid about 3 quarts. Only went around the block before I added more. I could drain the pan and see if there is anything there now. Hopefully I didn't burn something out. I added 8.5 quarts but forgot the deep pan adds 2 more quarts.
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Just checking, you are talking that you added the deep pan when you changed the converter. Did you add the filter drop down pickup extension that lowers the filter deeper into the deep pan ??
 
George Jets said:
Just checking, you are talking that you added the deep pan when you changed the converter. Did you add the filter drop down pickup extension that lowers the filter deeper into the deep pan ??
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No, the trans came with a deep pan but no filter extension, I was pretty surprised when I opened it up.
 
LivewireBlanco said:
No, the trans came with a deep pan but no filter extension, I was pretty surprised when I opened it up.
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Hate to say it but you may have starved the pump when you first ran it with the oil level low in that deep pan. Just curious did you put a couple of quarts of trans fluid in the new converter before you installed it ?? Think they pull better suction when they have something in them on first startups, plus it does not take so long to fill.

Got some other things to check here yet when you get the pan back off.
 
First off check the position of the Throttle Pressure Kick Down arm at the transmission when 1/2 throttle, then again at full throttle. If it is all the way to the back at half throttle, that is why it is staying in gear so long and not up shifting.

This picture is just for reference, you never want to Zip Tie the Throttle Lever/Kick Down Lever Forward.

ThrottlePressure.jpg
 
George Jets said:
Hate to say it but you may have starved the pump when you first ran it with the oil level low in that deep pan. Just curious did you put a couple of quarts of trans fluid in the new converter before you installed it ?? Think they pull better suction when they have something in them on first startups, plus it does not take so long to fill.

Got some other things to check here yet when you get the pan back off.
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I had 1 quart in the converter before starting. If I did starve the pump, what could the damage be? Could this be why third is not coming in until much later?
 
George Jets said:
First off check the position of the Throttle Pressure Kick Down arm at the transmission when 1/2 throttle, then again at full throttle. If it is all the way to the back at half throttle, that is why it is staying in gear so long and not up shifting.

This picture is just for reference, you never want to Zip Tie the Throttle Lever/Kick Down Lever Forward.

View attachment 1715456776
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The kickdown at full throttle is almost all the way back, about 1/8" left.
 
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