Late shifts after new torque converter.

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Then on your Transgo II shift kit install. Did you do the Valve Body work yourself and go through the worksheets and set things up as recommended for your model of transmission, Drilling and All ?

Here is one thing that may affecting your delayed shifts, Check your PR Adjustment, like in the lower left corner of this Transgo Worksheet.

I adjusted my Baseline Transgo Reprogramed Valve Body with the PR Adjusting Screw, Seat Spring Just Flush, same as in this picture. I went conservative on the drilling of the Separator Plate. Everything worked great, Pumped Fluid in Park and In Neutral, and nice shifts to, nothing erratic. Basically a stock setup 318 4bbl / 727, but I did have my Mopar Kickdown Linkage set up properly.

1800 rpm at 65 mph with the 2.94 gears. Very happy with that, low end torque engine of '69, open up the 4 barrels and pulls just great at any speed.

20190501_131611.jpg
 
No, I bought the transmission from Performance Automatic Transmission with the shift kit in it. The only modification I've done is changed the spring for the 1-2 shift to be higher but that was months ago.
 
LivewireBlanco said:
No, I bought the transmission from Performance Automatic Transmission with the shift kit in it. The only modification I've done is changed the spring for the 1-2 shift to be higher but that was months ago.
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Might want to see where that PR Adjustment is at when you get the pan off. There was a big difference here between the Stock Adjustment Setting and the Transgo Recommended setting. Had to back it off quite a bit, as the Transgo Kit reroutes the internal passages of the valve body.
 
How could this have changed with the torque converter swap? Also, something popped into my head, could a transmission line that's got a slight leak cause an issue? Im not saying one is but since I disconnected them and they are rubber im just throwing it out there.
 
LivewireBlanco said:
How could this have changed with the torque converter swap? Also, something popped into my head, could a transmission line that's got a slight leak cause an issue? Im not saying one is but since I disconnected them and they are rubber im just throwing it out there.
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Being it is a good possibility that your trans got ran low on fluid at first start up with the new converter and deep pan issues. Next step I would do is adjust the bands and see if you can get things back into spec. Low and No fluid pressure could have worn the clutch discs and the band material so best to check it out.

Have to be thankful that you can still adjust the bands, if they are way out of spec this will tell you that things wore inside. Also see what is in the bottom of the pan now and put another new filter on it, that one may be starting to plug off from the clutch and band material.

Everything tells a story, have to dig into it and see what you find that makes sense.
 
George Jets said:
Being it is a good possibility that your trans got ran low on fluid at first start up with the new converter and deep pan issues. Next step I would do is adjust the bands and see if you can get things back into spec. Low and No fluid pressure could have worn the clutch discs and the band material so best to check it out.

Have to be thankful that you can still adjust the bands, if they are way out of spec this will tell you that things wore inside. Also see what is in the bottom of the pan now and put another new filter on it, that one may be starting to plug off from the clutch and band material.

Everything tells a story, have to dig into it and see what you find that makes sense.
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Awesome, this gives me a good place to start. I'll drop the pan and check out what's on the bottom. Also, I'll see what the adjustment looks like. Fingers crossed it doesn't need a rebuild because I don't think I could tackle this myself. :(
 
LivewireBlanco said:
Awesome, this gives me a good place to start. I'll drop the pan and check out what's on the bottom. Also, I'll see what the adjustment looks like. Fingers crossed it doesn't need a rebuild because I don't think I could tackle this myself. :(
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We are all rooting for you in helping you get to the bottom of this.

By thinking into it and doing some research, gives you the opportunity to fix your problem and learn more about how these Mopars work.

Not a bad thing to know . . Good Luck . . .
 
If it's damaged inside and needs clutch or band replacement, don't worry about it. Since this trans was recently rebuilt, just going in there and replacing a few things is nothing. It's all in the front; right behind the pump; if there is damage. I'm sure you could handle this type of repair.
 
I'm following this thread as I just installed my A500, which I also installed the transgo shift kit, and I'm also experiencing the very late 2-3 shift
 
From your description it is behaving exactly like it would if the TV (kickdown) linkage was hung up, not returning all the way forward at lower throttle settings. Being as you severely pulled on the TV lever to the point of bending it I strongly suspect that it is not going all the way back (forward) to rest. If you disconnect it and push it all the way forward where does it stop? When you disconnected it and test drove it did you tie the lever forward or just let it sit where it wanted?
My suggestion is to disconnect it, tie it all the way forward and gingerly test drive the car.
DO NOT drive far like this or you will hurt your transmission. You could have bent the TV shaft that goes into the valve body causing it to hang up.
 
d55dave said:
From your description it is behaving exactly like it would if the TV (kickdown) linkage was hung up, not returning all the way forward at lower throttle settings. Being as you severely pulled on the TV lever to the point of bending it I strongly suspect that it is not going all the way back (forward) to rest. If you disconnect it and push it all the way forward where does it stop? When you disconnected it and test drove it did you tie the lever forward or just let it sit where it wanted?
My suggestion is to disconnect it, tie it all the way forward and gingerly test drive the car.
DO NOT drive far like this or you will hurt your transmission. You could have bent the TV shaft that goes into the valve body causing it to hang up.
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Sounds like a good idea, I know it has a somewhat weak return spring on the lever. Might have to give this a shot. Before I drop the pan.
 
You will want to install a heavier "Green" Kick Down Linkage return spring as in this picture to pull the kickdown linkage forward as the throttle is closing back down again.

This is a test, put your thumb on the kickdown slider linkage and push it back and and let it return forward again with the tension of the spring.

This action should move freely back and forth by hand. If it is not returning the linkage is binding up and you need to find out why.

This is the way Ma Mopar set the kickdowns up.

Now if you are using a cable kickdown, do you have it set up with a return spring or do you have a 2 cable push/pull setup ??

Not recommended to wire the kick down arm forward at the trans, use the linkage hooked to the throttle with a spring . . so it pulls back with the spring.

Edelbrock Mopar.jpg
 
d55dave said:
From your description it is behaving exactly like it would if the TV (kickdown) linkage was hung up, not returning all the way forward at lower throttle settings. Being as you severely pulled on the TV lever to the point of bending it I strongly suspect that it is not going all the way back (forward) to rest. If you disconnect it and push it all the way forward where does it stop? When you disconnected it and test drove it did you tie the lever forward or just let it sit where it wanted?
My suggestion is to disconnect it, tie it all the way forward and gingerly test drive the car.
DO NOT drive far like this or you will hurt your transmission. You could have bent the TV shaft that goes into the valve body causing it to hang up.
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I agree with this ^^^^ d55dave, all except the tying the kickdown arm forward part.

Heard of people ruining their transmissions by doing this because there is no pressure there to engage the clutches.

The kickdown (pressure valve) increases the internal pressure to keep the clutches engaged as the engine rpm and power goes up as the throttle is opening.
 
George Jets said:
I agree with this ^^^^ d55dave, all except the tying the kickdown arm forward part.

Heard of people ruining their transmissions by doing this because there is no pressure there to engage the clutches.

The kickdown (pressure valve) increases the internal pressure to keep the clutches engaged as the engine rpm and power goes up as the throttle is opening.
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Yes, I would only suggest it for one gingerly drive around the block to see what the shift points are. Really, it is no different than driving the car at or just off idle and letting it go through the gears. Damage happens at higher power settings without the TV hooked up.
 
d55dave said:
Yes, I would only suggest it for one gingerly drive around the block to see what the shift points are. Really, it is no different than driving the car at or just off idle and letting it go through the gears. Damage happens at higher power settings without the TV hooked up.
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Yes ^^^ I agree the OP's TV shaft is either bent or binding not allowing it to return to base idle position.
 
This might be the ticket, I hope! I have a Lokar cable kickdown setup so the only return pressure on the lever is from itself. I actually used a spring to bring it forward while dialing in my kickdown adjustment but found I didn't need it when I set it perfectly. I might just try connecting it again and see what happens! Fingers crossed!
 
LivewireBlanco said:
This might be the ticket, I hope! I have a Lokar cable kickdown setup so the only return pressure on the lever is from itself. I actually used a spring to bring it forward while dialing in my kickdown adjustment but found I didn't need it when I set it perfectly. I might just try connecting it again and see what happens! Fingers crossed!
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Now you are talking !

Believe you got it.
 
The 2-3 shift is almost always higher than the 1-2. This is why A&A sells a shift point corrector spring kit. They have two springs that you can experiment with for the 1-2 shift valve so you can match the shift points. With this, and their 5600 or 5800 (or whatever rpm you want, they have a full range) governor weight you can build a transmission that will shift both 1-2 and 2-3 at whatever rpm you want at wide open throttle. With normal driving at part throttle the shift points are slightly elevated.
 
d55dave said:
The 2-3 shift is almost always higher than the 1-2. This is why A&A sells a shift point corrector spring kit. They have two springs that you can experiment with for the 1-2 shift valve so you can match the shift points. With this, and their 5600 or 5800 (or whatever rpm you want, they have a full range) governor weight you can build a transmission that will shift both 1-2 and 2-3 at whatever rpm you want at wide open throttle. With normal driving at part throttle the shift points are slightly elevated.
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I have the spring that raised the 1-2 shift in there.

I tested a spring on the kickdown lever and it looks like that's where my problem is. Now I need to figure out how to fix the issue. It only shifts 2-3 when I let off the gas at 45.
 
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