Launching front tire camber? And shock travel.

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340Duster247

340Duster247

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Hey guys so I finally got my car out to the track and the car did pretty good. One thing I noticed is when the car launches and is going down the track the front tires have a lot of positive camber (top of the tires out \=/). When I see pictures and other cars going down the track they stay straight or have negative camber. On level ground just sitting the camber is bang on. Around -1degeree
Also is there a such thing as too much shock travel. I have 90/10s up front that don't fit the greatest anymore since the car has been lowered alot more since I bought them. So they now have a hole bunch of extension in them and not too much compression left. I will be replacing them with some Vikings next month.

Btw the car ran 11.6 at 115 N/A off the trailer .Didn't even adjust the rear shocks or the caltracs. Foot braking and leaving at only 2200 rpm. At 3700ft alt. unfortunately the 2nd pass I snapped the throttle cable. It was honestly better then we expected for a first pass ever in the duster. Car is set up for nitrous and can't wait to spray it now. Lol.
Thanks guys hopefully I'm making some sense.
 
First things first...ditch those shocks and invest in some Viking DA shocks.

I'm a little behind on my OE suspension stuff but IIRC there is a thing called camber gain and you might be seeing that.

You defiantly need to lose those shocks.
 
Thanks
Yah I know. Like I said I'm switching to Vikings next month. Already have Vikings on the rear.
 
The clarity of the video is alot better on YouTube directly. Not sure why went to pixle crap pasted to here. Ah well. I tried lol.
 
What front suspension are you running? I usually see the factory upper and lower control arms go negative during acceleration, so camber is set with body raised an inch or so to compensate.
If it's a single lower control arm setup with a coil over strut, the top no longer comes in negative when body raises rr suspension sags, so you'll have to adjust yours with front end raised too.
I am assuming everything is tight for whichever setup you have.
 
I have my front end set up a little negative /=\ when it is sitting still or driving around town, but it is straight up and down under hard acceleration. The down side to this is I chew up the insides of the front tires driving around town…but I don’t care…my car is ~75% race and 25% street. The last set of front tires lasted….well….longer than I can remember…probably 10 years or so.


This photo gallery (link below) has some shots of my cars stance, scroll toward the bottom…image 0454 shows the normal stance, and image 0457 shows under hard acceleration….and yes, I beat that gorgeous 55 Chevy with a little finish line finesse (made him eat the stripe, he broke out, I ran dead on with an 8 on the brakes), I won the race which paid for the new Hoosiers I got the day before, lol.


06/06/2014 GOODGUYS FRIDAY NIGHT DRAGS
 
Bobzilla said:
What front suspension are you running? I usually see the factory upper and lower control arms go negative during acceleration, so camber is set with body raised an inch or so to compensate.
If it's a single lower control arm setup with a coil over strut, the top no longer comes in negative when body raises rr suspension sags, so you'll have to adjust yours with front end raised too.
I am assuming everything is tight for whichever setup you have.
Click to expand...
All factory front suspension. Tortion bars cranked to get the ride height I wanted. Can't afford an aftermarket frontend anytime soon, so the original stuff will have to do for now. Thanks for the reply.
 
When doing my neighbors E stock Duster we looked at photos of it going down the track and raised it to that height while doing the alignment. Also (I wish I had photos) I took care of a real Sox & Martin 68 Cuda for a while. They had cables attached to the upper control arms that were adjustable to limit the travel as necessary. Just a thought.
 
From the look of the video, you are not extending the front shocks all the way. When I align a race car, I add the drivers weight to the front seat, set the wheelbase of needed, set the ride height, jack the front end up by the k frame 1", 0 the camber, as much positive caster as possible, and 0 the toe. I have made adjustable travel limiters, you can with different height snubber for the upper control arm if necessary
 
Have you checked "toe" at different ride heights? From the video, it looks as though the front tires are toe in pretty bad...hard to see but I sure would check toe at 1" increments from ride height to wheels up. This may be your problem... Toe should not vary more that 3/8" or less would be ideal! This is my car, I have worked hard to achieve very little bump steer on wheels up situations like this. [less that .060] from ride height to wheels up.

IMG_0937.jpg
 
Get the Mopar Performance Suspension book, Ninth edition. It explains in depth how to set a race front end up so that toe and camber change very little to not at all.
 
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