LCA Correct OEM Color - 67 Cuda

-

tw7912

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2009
Messages
106
Reaction score
46
Location
Burleson, TX
Would appreciate comment from anyone who has experience with getting the lower control arm paint color OEM correct, or close. For years I have always painted them to match the K Member. It is my understanding they should be a yellow or gold color since they came from the factory bare with some cosmoline sprayed on to slow down the rust. Eastwood has a gold cad spray, and I'm sure there must be others. Thanks in advance.
 
Years ago I ran across an article about LCA restoration. IIRC the article said media blast them then paint them with this other Eastwood product that was the same color of the freshly blasted LCA (cast iron gray?), then use the Eastwood cad color over it. The article mentioned you should mask a few inches down from the lower ball joint all the way around so when applying the cad color paint (or maybe it was called something else) it would mimic dipping the LCA in cosmoline. Hope this helps as it’s to the best of my hazy recollection!
 
Do you want it to look like this? This is mine.

20170604_171803.jpg
 
A great many of them weren't dipped in anything. I was a dealership mechanic from 1970-1978 and saw thousands of new cars in that time. Most control arms, upper and lower, and rear leaf spring plates were installed 'as stamped' with nothing more than the residual oils used in stamping on them. Strut rods weren't coated either in most cases. Winter delivered new cars often showed rust already growing on those parts when they came off the truck. The factory didn't care what the underside of the car looked like after a month of driving. New replacement parts were always coated much like abodyjoe is showing to prevent rusting in long term storage, as were replacement brake drums and rotors, and sometimes, but not always, cylinder heads and other iron forgings & casings. A replacement power steering pump might be dipped in cosmo, plastic bagged and boxed. Or it might be left raw and wrapped in vapor paper then boxed. Seemed to be no set rules, but left to the discretion of the vendors.
 
A great many of them weren't dipped in anything. I was a dealership mechanic from 1970-1978 and saw thousands of new cars in that time. Most control arms, upper and lower, and rear leaf spring plates were installed 'as stamped' with nothing more than the residual oils used in stamping on them. Strut rods weren't coated either in most cases. Winter delivered new cars often showed rust already growing on those parts when they came off the truck. The factory didn't care what the underside of the car looked like after a month of driving. New replacement parts were always coated much like abodyjoe is showing to prevent rusting in long term storage, as were replacement brake drums and rotors, and sometimes, but not always, cylinder heads and other iron forgings & casings. A replacement power steering pump might be dipped in cosmo, plastic bagged and boxed. Or it might be left raw and wrapped in vapor paper then boxed. Seemed to be no set rules, but left to the discretion of the vendors.
Thanks. I've gotten a lot of good advice from people who know what they're talking about, appreciate ya'll. To answer the question some of you may be asking "what am I going to do with my lca's?" After blasting I'm going to paint them with some good cast paint to inhibit the rust, probably POR15's Cast Grey (it looks good, closest to cast metal I've seen) and then maybe try to shade a little Eastwood yellow where the originals, some of them, were dipped. Not that big a deal, no concours here just originality if possible. It seems that there wasn't any standard as many of you have mentioned. I like what all of you have done so I don't think I can go wrong. Again, thanks to all.
 
-
Back
Top