LCA Repair

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4spdragtop

4spdragtop

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I noticed when welding stiffening plates on the pass side torsion bar adjuster slot is oblong. Can I weld to build up and grind smooth? It's on both sides of passenger lca.
Thanks
Steve

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Wow, i never have seen a LCA in that bad of shape.
Lots of slop must have been going on with them for a long time.
Dunno, don't know what to tell you.
Good, used, plain Jane LCA's aren't hard to find.
 
I agree, I would have started with a better pair. It can be fixed but its going to be some work.
 
Thanks guys. This one has sway bar tabs, orig from 69 S. Yeah I should have found another before welding the stiffening plate on. Other side is perfect. Shipping would be brutal. I'll try building it up and grinding.
Thanks.
 
4spdragtop said:
Thanks guys. This one has sway bar tabs, orig from 69 S. Yeah I should have found another before welding the stiffening plate on. Other side is perfect. Shipping would be brutal. I'll try building it up and grinding.
Thanks.
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Oh, in that case, you previously didn't mention that they are sway bar tabbed LCA's
That opens up a whole can of worms, in finding those.
 
Someone just had a set here a few days ago and wasn't gouging although yes shipping sucks especially to cross the northern border.
 
A few nice beads and a bit of dremel work. Media blast to blend the "texture" for looks and your're golden. TIG would be my torch of choice, but MIG will work as well.
 
4spdragtop said:
I noticed when welding stiffening plates on the pass side torsion bar adjuster slot is oblong. Can I weld to build up and grind smooth? It's on both sides of passenger lca.
Thanks
Steve

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Ouch!

Yup, no reason you can't run a bead on that and reshape it. I'd clean it up a bit first, run a couple of beads so you have more metal than you need, then file it back to the proper shape.

The adjuster must have been loose in the LCA, I wonder if it was mostly backed off and the car was riding on the bump stops? It was definitely loose to the point the adjuster wasn't loaded during suspension movement.

You might also want to check for damage elsewhere, if it did that to the LCA then you may also have issues at the pivot tubes. Less likely, but inspecting the UCA's and their mounts wouldn't be a bad idea either.
 
4spdragtop said:
Yeah those look nice but I would be in for $400 easy with shipping and exchange. I'll try to mig myself, if it turns into a mess we got a mig and tig at work. Get someone to do it if need be.
Thanks guys.
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Are you working on my convertible? :)
 
I'd take a good look at the adjuster nut too. I bet it's suffered the same fate as the control arm. Strange impact damage to the face of the control arm too makes me wonder what caused that. Another thing I always like to verify on all cars is to check the welded-in tubes for the control arm pin in the K-member. I can't tell you how many of those I've seen cracked and/or broken loose.
 
Heres pics of adjuster nut. Hammered on pretty good. Not certain but I bought it years ago and it had fiberglass fenders. I "heard" it went ditch bound at one point.
I gotta dig thru parts for nut and bolt for other side.
Probably need a pair.

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Thanks Roy, much appreciated! Would love to hit FLA and meet a few mopar brothers.
Found 8ther nut n bolt. Nut looks shot. Bolts good tho!Lol:thumbsup:
Got a pair of nuts??:wtf::poke:
SGBARRACUDA said:
You see if you didn't live in a different country,you could swing by and I'd give you one!
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Was able to make progress on the lcas. One is finished welding blasted and painted. The pass side that was walled out is almost done needs another welding pass and some grinding(last pic) I made a cardboard template from the good lca, which helped. I'll see how the adjusters from Roy fit.
Some progress and love playing with the welder.

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4spdragtop said:
I noticed when welding stiffening plates on the pass side torsion bar adjuster slot is oblong. Can I weld to build up and grind smooth? It's on both sides of passenger lca.
Thanks
Steve

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View attachment 1715676563
Click to expand...
Several others have already chimed in. Let me also say, YES. There is no reason you could not MIG weld and grind and have a VERY strong repair. Many years ago (40 or so), before stroker cranks were readily available, I read an article in a car magazine (with lots of pictures) about a company that built crank journals up with weld and then offset ground them to get the desired stroke. As long as you cleaned the parts up well and used a high enough setting to ensure good penetration, you should easily be able to fix them and have them looking good and be plenty strong. Post pictures when you are done.
 
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