leaking...f...king valve covers ???

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71scamp78

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what would you guys say are the better valve covers and gaskets to use on stock cast iron heads as far as fitment and gasket seal..I have some Mopar Performance cast aluminum on my 440 right now answer seem to leak no matter what. I don't care much for them anyhow so what is a decent priced set and gaskets
 
Felpro 1610 gaskets will seal them up, hands down the best gasket.
 
I have the same valve covers as you do. If you want a different set, I have some fabbed aluminum covers that I put the wrinkle black on, but I'm happy with the mp covers.
 
71scamp78 said:
what would you guys say are the better valve covers and gaskets to use on stock cast iron heads as far as fitment and gasket seal..I have some Mopar Performance cast aluminum on my 440 right now answer seem to leak no matter what. I don't care much for them anyhow so what is a decent priced set and gaskets
Click to expand...

May I ask your approach to installing your valve covers ?
 
Are you CERTAIN that they are seated and sealing near the intake runners? Common problem with aftermarket intake manifolds. I've had to file a relief in cast covers many times, some more than others.
They can be hitting the runner (even just a little) and appear to be seated, but aren't . A tiny gap is all takes.
I've also heard of double gasketing with cork, but haven't had to do this myself.
Of course, prep is everything. Just shedding light on the not-so-obvious.
 
Like I said, Felpro 1610 gaskets with the MP valve covers = no leaks.
 
The valve isn't sitting level on the rail of the head. You might have to open the valve cover holes a tad so it can sit flat, especially if your using studs.
 
not using studs..I'm just not sure if these covers don't seal well on stock heads or what..I would think they would seal better then stock covers since the rails are much stronger and don't bend
 
71scamp78 said:
not using studs..I'm just not sure if these covers don't seal well on stock heads or what..I would think they would seal better then stock covers since the rails are much stronger and don't bend
Click to expand...

One would think, until you look at the rail on the heads where the gasket sits and find it's not flat. :D
Take a look and I'll bet you find it's higher in the middle than at the ends and that makes any flat valve cover have to try to bend to get sealed. (which breaks the corners off trying to get them to seal because they don't bend)
I had a 1/8 gap at each end with fabbed aluminum covers on stock cast heads, and you can check by setting the cover on without the gasket and see if it rocks forward and back.
 
Is there a pattern pressed into the gasket when you take the valve cover off? That's a way to see if it's sealing everywhere, or where it isn't.
 
Always had this problem with iron heads due to the thin valve cover rail. If I have the heads off I dissasemble them and run a flat file over the rails, they are very porous and must let the oil seep through, but since ive started filing them flat and smooth I have no leaks! Even with the old cork gaskets
 
We had problems getting a set of cast aluminum valve covers to seal on a 440, trying 7 gaskets and still not sealed.

Pitched the valve covers for a set of stamped steel chrome ones and they sealed first time...

Pitch the valve covers....
 
krazykuda said:
We had problems getting a set of cast aluminum valve covers to seal on a 440, trying 7 gaskets and still not sealed.

Pitched the valve covers for a set of stamped steel chrome ones and they sealed first time...

Pitch the valve covers....
Click to expand...

Because stamped steel flexes and cast doesn't.
Straight inflexible edged covers don't like non straight inflexible head rails, but some creative gasket making works.
This the same reason some report success using double gaskets.
 
krazykuda said:
We had problems getting a set of cast aluminum valve covers to seal on a 440, trying 7 gaskets and still not sealed.

Pitched the valve covers for a set of stamped steel chrome ones and they sealed first time...

Pitch the valve covers....
Click to expand...

That's what I did went with these beauties . Buddy had a new set he wasn't gonna use and made me a deal I couldn't resist

20160704_151704-800x450.jpg
 
Did you ever try to glue the gasket to the valve cover ?
Maybe with some Gasgacinch ?
 
no not hitting stock intake..I put a little silicone on both sides of gasket it can't hurt . Letting it sir over night and will let it get hot and retorque them
 
Crazy as this may sound, try running a tap in each bolt hole. I had a valve cover leak that would not go away. Pulled the stock steel cover, checked the gasket, looked for any interference or gunk on the seating surface, etc. The only thing I had changed was installing a set of MP chrome valve cover bolts. Just thought that since I had the cover off, run a tap to chase the threads. Found 2 holes were drilled and tapped shallow. The stock bolts were okay, but the MP bolts bottomed out - and they were not much longer than the stock ones. That's all it took. Put the stock bolts back in, and the leak went away. Ended up grinding down the chrome bolts to the stock length and all is well.
 
Yes this too^
Which may show up as a weak imprint in the gasket (which you can see when you take the vc back off and look at gasket. The imprint will be zero to very shallow if it's not compressing (at that spot).
Are you able to achieve full torque when tightening these bolts?
If yes, as Bruce said, bolts may be bottoming. Try a shorter bolt or add washer(s). A feeler gauge beneath bolt flange may help. That would be a hell of a gap though.
If no, address threads.
Run a straight edge along head rail.
Run a straight edge along vc cover flange. The gasket should fill a small gap, but you'll notice a large one. Least likely.
I had to grind the vc cover so deep at some spots to clear intake runners that I'm past the flange on the vc, and I'm still sealed. I siliconed OUTSIDE the vc after installation at the gaps around intake runners.
This is on small block with rpm air gap mani and cast Vc's with cork felpro's.
 
twayne24365 said:
Always had this problem with iron heads due to the thin valve cover rail. If I have the heads off I dissasemble them and run a flat file over the rails, they are very porous and must let the oil seep through, but since ive started filing them flat and smooth I have no leaks! Even with the old cork gaskets
Click to expand...
The magnums are machined. Us poor LA guys have to file +Dremel away. I should have taken pics , the casting porosity makes me wonder how any LA valve covers sealed.
 
fratzog lover said:
The magnums are machined. Us poor LA guys have to file +Dremel away. I should have taken pics , the casting porosity makes me wonder how any LA valve covers sealed.
Click to expand...

I ALWAYS use the black Felpro rubber gaskets and RTV on both sides on LA heads and never a problem until I put fabricated aluminum covers on my old motor ( stock cast heads 318)
There was an 1/8 gap both front and rear without the gasket in place, so I cut about 6 inches of the ends off another set of the rubber gaskets and laminated the two end sections together with the first set, then used a moto tool to taper the two ends I added down to the original single thickness in the center of the gaskets.
That did it, but it was a lot to go through for it.

I have the Magnum with EQ heads in the LA intake bolt pattern now, and boy that was a breeze.
Both surfaces machine flat and the OE steel/rubber reusable valve cover gaskets are fantastic.
 
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