1. clementine

    clementine Flight risk FABO Gold Member

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    Helllooooo FABO!!!
    I am looking for a solution for my line lock indicator light. The kit comes with little red indicator light but I cant seem to find that 'right spot' for it on the dash, so I started thinking that maybe I could interrupt the parking brake indicator light that is wired into the proportioning valve. the goal would be to have the light work for both the parking brake and the line lock. I feel like I should be able to just patch into that wire (the one with the little booty on it that goes into the proportioning valve), but something tells me it is triggered (ground triggered) differently. attached is the schematic for the line lock. 20211028_071111.jpg THANKS FABO! (and @67Dart273 :lol:)
     
  2. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    The only way you could do that is to wire the linelock so that the switch is in the ground leg, because that is how the brake warning lamp is wired

    Then you would need at least one isolation diode to prevent interaction between the two circuits

    I'm sitting here with a lap full of breakfast LOL. If I can I'll draw up a diagram and post it

    The diode needs to only be large enough to handle the warning lamp, so a 1A diode or more at 25V PIV or more is enough

    linelock.JPG
     
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    • clementine

      clementine Flight risk FABO Gold Member

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      So I would make
      one (fused) leg into the valve hot,
      diode on the 'out' leg of the valve,
      into the switch? or then into the brake indicator circuit?
      If i went into the switch and then out to the indicator/proportioning valve wire that would act as my ground, no? Thanks Del, as you may have gathered, I am not quite at 100 level classes on the whole wiring situation.
       
    • Bad Sport

      Bad Sport HALF A BUBBLE OFF Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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      I would hook up the line lock, activate it and see what happens.

      My brake light on the dash comes on when I activate mine, and I didn't wire it to do so. I think it's picking up on the disturbance in the brake system.
       
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      • 80fbody

        80fbody Well-Known Member

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        I used a small 1/8" or so red led on last street car. Simply drilled thru dash. This came on only while the unit was actually activated and I had a light up switch that was used for power to the relay. Basically, flip switch on (turned green) then I knew that there was power to the unit. Activate line lock and red light on dash would light up. Commence burnout...
         
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        • inertia

          inertia Well-Known Member

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          Although the light may not come on with the button, the "park/brake " light will come on when you release the foot-brake, triggering the "brake imbalance" switch.
          Just splice into the lineloc activation wire for a dash light triggered by the switch ..
           
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          • mcodecuda

            mcodecuda Senior Member

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            Why run the light at all?
             
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            • tinman2

              tinman2 73 Dart 340 Sport FABO Gold Member

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              20200417_164740.jpg 20210914_090702.jpg I had a line lock on my street/strip style 65 Falcon and also on my 67 Camaro drag car. Both 4-speeds. Neither had an indicator light. Never knew I needed one. Press the button on the shifter while brake pedal is pressed down- line lock engaged. Release the button- line lock disengaged, brakes released.
               
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              • inertia

                inertia Well-Known Member

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                I found it comforting to know the lineloc was on when I staged, confident I'm not gonna shoot out the lights when I let go the foot-brake !

                Been there ! !
                 
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                • royslead

                  royslead Well-Known Member

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                  The only concern I see with 67dart273's method (and it is well drawn), is that a short to ground anywhere in that ground path between the line lock and switch, will cause the line lock solenoid to activate, just like engaging the switch. Not generally a worry, if your wire routing and insulation is good, just be aware of it.
                   
                • Jeremiah

                  Jeremiah Well-Known Member

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                  My car is a 4 speed therefore I lock out the rear brakes and hold the front with button engaged. When i let off the brake pedal with the line lock engaged the brake system warning light illuminates. Maybe using the dash light will work. Again with a manual trans i only use it for the burnout. I would thunk if you were footbraking an automatic you would not use the line lock but all four brakes to hold the car against the converter. Things get busy after the burnout in a nitrous srick shift car. I usually purge the bottle while doing a rockford style backup into my tracks. I like being the first to pre stage. : D
                   
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                  • 67Dart273

                    67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    On a side note, over the years I've been a party to at least 4 or more Hurst brand Lineloc failures, and I believe they "can't stand" duty cycle

                    First one I ever saw was my friend who later had and later sold me the 70 RR. First time was he had bought a NOS from a friend and we put it in his then 65 Chevelle, and later he installed it in the 70 RR 440-6 he bought new. That lineloc failed, and when I bought the car, the second one failed for me later on

                    I had put a new one into my old Landcruiser and THAT one failed

                    I've had at least one other friend/ acquaintence that failed one as well

                    "I hoped they've improved" but I doubt it
                     
                  • 67Dart273

                    67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    One way "you might" extend life if failures are caused by coil overheating, is to experiment with a series resistor and with a large cap on the Lineloc end. This is sometimes used to "speed up" relay actuation

                    rcdelay_schematic.png

                    In this circuit, the supply V to the relay or solenoid comes in at left. The relay/ solenoid coil hooks to "Vc" at right

                    You select the relay to hold the solenoid in, but it won't usually PULL it in as a solenoid/ relay takes more to pull in than to hold in. Then ypu put a fairly large cap on the end, and this gives the relay a "jolt" because the cap will charge up to full voltage, not dropped by the relay The switch must be between the cap and the solenoid, or switched in the ground leg
                     
                  • inertia

                    inertia Well-Known Member

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                    I still have and use the original Hurst Lineloc I installed when the car was new.
                     
                    Last edited: Oct 28, 2021
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                    • clementine

                      clementine Flight risk FABO Gold Member

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                      Well, the latest hour or so have led me to keeping it simple and following the instructions as I am a total noob with wiring. I am not running a radio in this rig so the line lock light fits perfectly into where the knob for the radio would go. Ill fabricate a radio delete plate at some point and will either move the light or integrate it. I really appreciate the responses. I hope this one doesnt fail @67Dart273. Your education on wiring is over my head unfortunately, but much appreciated. I must have appeared smarter than I am when we met:lol:
                       
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                      • 67Dart273

                        67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                        LOL. There's lots of stuff I don't know or have jus' plain forgotten.
                         
                      • clementine

                        clementine Flight risk FABO Gold Member

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                        Ya, you have forgotten more than I will learn I believe the saying goes.

                        Thanks guys....back to making spark plug wires.....trying to fit boots over the wires is the worst! Lube it then it becomes too slippery....wipe lube off...then its too dry....why did I do this to myself?
                         
                      • 67Dart273

                        67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                        I use silicone spray lube. A good pair of hemostats works, stick them through the boots, grab the wire and give a pull. Sometimes you can do that with needle nose. Those boots will stretch.
                         
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                        • clementine

                          clementine Flight risk FABO Gold Member

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                          I got two done. decided to check continuity.....nothing....whiskey tango foxtrot. I did the whole lube and wrestle thing for two friggin hours to get ....nada....the struggle is real here people. Had to walk away as there were tools and things in danger of being thrown.
                           
                        • 67Dart273

                          67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                          You don't have something seriously wrong, like 8mm wire and 7mm boots or something? What are you using for lube?

                          Another thing you can try is "pre stretch" the boots with something tapered......pair of needle nose, a sheet metal "awl" anything smooth and tapered lube it and sa--lide it in there for a few seconds.
                           
                        • clementine

                          clementine Flight risk FABO Gold Member

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                          Ill giver a try. good idea Del. I have to find out about the ones I built first.
                           
                        • AJ/FormS

                          AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s FABO Gold Member

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                          That supplied light is IMO ridiculously large. I went down to radio shack and got me an LED about .25" in diameter. and just stuck it under the tach.
                          With a manual trans, I also use my LL to be a hill-holder, so I use a toggle to activate it, in that mode; keeping the momentary-on for burnouts. It makes starting off when on a hill so much smoother.

                          as for endurance, IDK, mine was new in 1971ish, and is now on the third muscle car.. But not in continuous use. I'll guess it has ~30 years on it.
                           
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