Long valves on W2's with .600 lift?

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Krooser

Building Chinese Free Engines since 1959...
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My W2 econo heads have the rocker stands milled off. They have 5.05 length valves installed. Any benefit to installing 5.30 "long valves" when running no more than .600 lift on the cam?

I'm switching to a lighter valve set-up by ditching the manley Race Flow valves with a 5/16 or 11/32 set of valves, using a lighter valve spring (bee hive or conical) and going with steel retainers rather than the Ti stuff I now have.

I want to run about 7200 rpm now and those 3/8" valves are not the correct formula.

Just wondering what you guys think.
 
Happpy new year
since you have to make stands figure out what the best spring to use - usually taller like 2" or Big- block size ( or BBC size) some height where you have choices and less pricy
then get the valves and retainers to match'
you should be able to get more spring clerance
also the taller spring requires the shaft to be set back and thus the adjuster and thus the pushrod giving you more pushrod clerance
 
Happpy new year
since you have to make stands figure out what the best spring to use - usually taller like 2" or Big- block size ( or BBC size) some height where you have choices and less pricy
then get the valves and retainers to match'
you should be able to get more spring clerance
also the taller spring requires the shaft to be set back and thus the adjuster and thus the pushrod giving you more pushrod clerance
These shafts on the Mopar cast rockers have billet steel blocks... they were shimmed with one hardened 3/8" washer and the sweep on the valve tip seemed to be good.

The T&D rockers I have also have billet stands but I haven't set those two sets side by side to see any difference.

How much do you think they would need to be set-back assuming they were not when the stock rocker stands were milled off and the studs drilled and tapped?
 
Looks like T&D uses 5.140 valves with their rockers. I plan on using those so I'm going to buy a couple valves in that length to mock up the valve train to see what works best.
 
5.3" long is too much normally for that lift change.... valve is typically lengthened around 1/2 of the lift increase. The 5.14" make more sense.
 
I've run as high as 2.100 on W2 and W5 stuff.

It's not worth it unless you really need to net .800 lift and can fit that on a reasonable lobe for your RPM/displacement.

The best I could do is net .750 lift but that was on 340 inches and I just couldn't get more lift without going to a lobe that made me cringe. And that used to be hard to do.

So for the lift you are wanting if you can get 1.900 installed you should be able to get what you want easily and not have to fight the geometry to make it happy.
 
My cam grinder is specing around .560 lift so those 5.140's should work pretty good. I took one head to a local speed shop that has a Superflo bench so I can see what kind of #'s these heads really flow. That should help with cam selection. I'll know next week.

Thanks for the input guys.
 
also get your springs lined up for that valve lift and retainer choice before buying valves
you want something easy to set up and quick replacement availability
 
Just got a call from the shop that flowed my W-2 heads...I don't have all the numbers but he said the intakes were bumping up against the 300 cfm mark @ .600 lift. Not too bad...I should be ok to hit 600+ hp with those numbers.
He said the mid range was good, too.

I also spoke with Randy@RaceTec and I should have my pistons in three weeks.

Things are finally rolling...
 
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Just got a call from the shop that flowed my W-2 heads...I don't have all the numbers but he said the intakes were bumping up against the 300 cfm mark @ .600 lift. Not too bad...I should be ok to hit 600+ hp with those numbers.
He said the mid range was good, too


Nothing wrong with that. Remind me what size valve that is please.
 
2.02/1.60 Manley Race Flow


Nice.


Edit. 300 CFM on a 2.02 valve tells me several things.

1). The valve job has to be pretty damn good.
2). Whatever port work was done was done correctly.
3). The package is very efficient.
4). HP/CFM should be very, very good.

I hope the intake manifold has been worked over to compliment the heads. I could see an easy 650 HP out of those heads IF the combo is on the money. That's killer for a 2.02 valve.
 
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Your springs will dictate what you need as far as valve length goes. Keep in mind that long valves/tall stands make for problems with valve cover clearance.
 
Nice.


Edit. 300 CFM on a 2.02 valve tells me several things.

1). The valve job has to be pretty damn good.
2). Whatever port work was done was done correctly.
3). The package is very efficient.
4). HP/CFM should be very, very good.

I hope the intake manifold has been worked over to compliment the heads. I could see an easy 650 HP out of those heads IF the combo is on the money. That's killer for a 2.02 valve.
The intake has about 4-6" of the runners matched to the heads but no work has been done to the plenum... Mopar M-1.

The funny thing is neither the original builder or owner can remember who did the head work.
 
Your springs will dictate what you need as far as valve length goes. Keep in mind that long valves/tall stands make for problems with valve cover clearance.
I'm using T&D rockers and they specify the 5.140 valves. They sell rocker stand spacers that allow fine tuning the rocker stands to get the rocker tip sweep correct.

I've talked to them a couple times and they have been very helpful even to a schmoe like me.
 
Cool. Looks like twins to my heads
297 @ .600
Trying to find my flow sheet. I got Too much crap !
 
Found it !
0927DAA7-83D4-49A8-A923-6312F6ACA6DE.jpeg
 
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that is a nice curve
if you had to roll the nose over or limit duration to where you only had .600 you would not loose much
say a road race grind vs a heads up build
waiting for Monday buddy
 
R
that is a nice curve
if you had to roll the nose over or limit duration to where you only had .600 you would not loose much
say a road race grind vs a heads up build
waiting for Monday buddy

Right at 10:1 compression.
.029 quench
Running this cam
BA24095C-9F55-47FD-A09E-A3985988CE29.jpeg
 
I'm using T&D rockers and they specify the 5.140 valves. They sell rocker stand spacers that allow fine tuning the rocker stands to get the rocker tip sweep correct.

I've talked to them a couple times and they have been very helpful even to a schmoe like me.


Do those rockers come with their own shafts and stands, or are these econo heads?? I forget easily.


EDIT. NEVER MIND!! I went and read the first post. What do the shims look like that T&D sends out??
 
Do those rockers come with their own shafts and stands, or are these econo heads?? I forget easily.


EDIT. NEVER MIND!! I went and read the first post. What do the shims look like that T&D sends out??

Just look like washers but different thickness's...
 
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