Looking for info on 2406782 rods

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Bottom line, you could use those rods in any 273/318/340 with the right piston and a engine balance. It's easier to use the right rods for the application. It might not cost a ton to get them checked if you can use them. It costs almost as much to recondition with new rod bolts as it costs for a set of new rods. No need to reinventing the wheel.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Also, a question for nm9stheham. if you ran the aforementioned set up in a 360, would it be better to drill or to turn down the outside of the counter weight to bring the balance back in?
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I would presume that drilling is the only way to do as a normal, service procedure..... you have to not only remove some weight but remove it at a specific angular location. Turning down would not remove it at the typical angular location (at least typical ones I have seen; the effective weight removal by turning would be centered on the counterweight. I don't have or run a balance machine, but all the info I have viewed on how the work and are used is they they instruct the operator to drill so deep at a certain angular location, or if older, remove so many grains or grams or inch-ounces at a certain angular location.

It's certainly conceivable to take part of the weight out by turning the counterweight down, then use the balance machine to determine where and how much the rest would be removed would change. It probably takes some experimenting to get that right; if you turned down too much, then you could get to a point where you could never get it re-balanced with the given bobweight.
 
RustyRatRod said:
As usual, I add the disclaimer....."I could be totally wrong" LMAO
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I too assumed the MP rods were just dolled-up originals, but NO, they are new forgings of better material (4340 I believe, possibly 5140) and bear the word "Mopar" on the beam as well as their "P" prefix part number. Same with the BB MP rods, they had a standard and "6-Pk." rod available at the same time as the SB rods (340 size, too) made of the better material with good bolts and with the "Mopar" logo forged in and a "P" prefix part number(s). The 6-Pk ones are dreadfully heavy, but look indestructable.
 
Just an observation. The lighter your piston (and pin) is, the stronger (in effect) your rod becomes.
Take a 900 gram piston and a 225 gr pin out of a big block, and put in a 700 gr piston and 150gr pin, your rod has much less to do pulling the piston down between exhaust and intake.
 
33IMP said:
Just an observation. The lighter your piston (and pin) is, the stronger (in effect) your rod becomes.
Take a 900 gram piston and a 225 gr pin out of a big block, and put in a 700 gr piston and 150gr pin, your rod has much less to do pulling the piston down between exhaust and intake.
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Then that must mean I can run a 75 pound piston with 6 pack rods. lol
 
pic for ***** and giggles. That's a BBC to the right.
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DusterJoe410.4 said:
I found a group of 13 part #2406782 rods for sale cheap locally, the guy has them listed as 273 rods. They appear to have bushings in them which tells me they should be floating pin. What’s the difference between these and floating pin 340 rods? I’m looking to upgrade a 360 with floating pin rods so I can put some KB Hypereutectic flat top pistons in and bump up the compression. Would these work for that or is the pin a different size? Thanks for any help with this you can give.
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What is the reason you don't want to run the pistons pressed onto your rods? Just curious.
Edited: never mind, I now see it’s an old thread.
 
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