Looking for opinions on parts for my rebuild.

-

myasylum

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2008
Messages
1,740
Reaction score
4
Location
Las Vegas, NV
It's looking more likely that I will be doing a rebuild on my stroker 360.
Sadly either the trust bearing went out, or I have a broken crank after only 10,000 mi.
It sucks however at least this way I know it will be done the right way.

Can I just rebuild the bottom end and be done?

Second... the shop reused my stock connecting rods and knoched the block.
Would you trust the stock connecting rods for a stroker motor.
So far that hasn't been a problem, but I want to do things "right". I
The Pistons are KB's. I should be good there.

Now... If I need a new crank, I've been hearing good things about Scat. I have a Eagle crank installed now, and don't think I want to stick with Eagle for obvious reasons. (Unless it ends up being good) it was internally balanced at the shop.
If bad, would I be better off with a forged crank for 500hp?

Maybe I'd be better off with a whole new rotating assembly? I really didn't want to dig that far into it though?!

I haven't pulled the motor yet because part of me wants to just sell the car, but once I start its all mine again :)

Just looking for a heads up for what I'm getting into.

Thanks!!
 
In my opinion:
- Rods are fine up to about 500hp and 6K rpm. If they are stock factory and have been given good bolts and a re-do once already then have them checked out to make sure the big ends are fine and none are bent or twisted - this can be possible when the crank moves around that much or breaks. Reusing them will save on the balance fee too because they are already properly weight matched.
- I personally do not use hypereutectic pistons with a 4" stroke. Many do - but my opinon is the mean piston speeds get to close to my expected failure point and the peak speeds exceed them at 6K. I would use a decent forged - Icon (also a KB product), or SRP make decent and good value ones. For me top of the line would be CP or J&E.
- Crank - the Eagle cast are not something I use antmore. I have one in the basement that I'm not going to use, and I have several I used years ago that have exceeded 450hp (via track results) and I've had no failures. But the finish work on them sucks and I think if you can't get everything perfect - they have a good chance of failing at the 450 level. If you expect 500hp then for cast go Scat, if you want forged then BPE, K1, or Eagle would be my choices and in that order. Have it internally balanced and use an SFI approved balancer. and any of those cranks will be able to hold whatever that block can make for power.
 
Thanks that is great info!
I have read NOT to buy them internally balance, but have a shop do it for you.

Do you believe that to be true?

It sounds like maybe I should look into a Scat rotating assembly. That's a lot of cash though.
I'll have to see what I find when I open it up. :/
 
I have an Eagle forged crank in my stroker, but I would not use their cast crank. I have heard of too many failures. If you are looking at making 500hp, go with a forged crank for piece of mind. Honestly, I would get the engine out and see what the problem is before you worry too much. It might be better (or worse) than you think in there....better to have a look, then make a game plan.
 
I tend to be very, very picky in terms of what I trust from manufacturers. There are none I trust to properly balance my assembly. I always internal balance, and I always pay my shop to do it. It's more expensive, it's more time, but in my opinion that's one critical thing I can control quality control-wise.

I also agree with Fly - you have to worry about what you have. Not what the internet (me included) says you might have. DETERMINE what you have for parts, cash, and a starting point. FORMULATE a solution to get the performance you want out of the build that fits the bugdgt. EXECUTE the build per that plan. The more you worry, and ask for opinions (again - mine included), and the more you stray from a plan the more likely you will have issues and spend more.
 
Will do! :thumbup:
I will continue with this thread once I have the engine out and disassembled.
It may be awhile. Weddings coming up and stuff...

Thanks guys!
 
Stock rods are probably good beyond what you intend to do, providing they have good rod bolts and are prepped right. I don't understand why you are wanting to stay away from simply rebuilding the whole thing. Makes zero sense. Either do it right, or throw it in the garbage can. You want to do it a third time? What's rings and glaze honing gonna cost you? Almost nothing. Besides, all of it has to come apart anyway. Do it right.
 
-
Back
Top