Lower Idler Arm?

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BHB4408

BHB4408

BHB4408
Joined
Aug 29, 2022
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Location
Edgewood, WA
Does anyone know of a place I can buy an Idler Arm for my '72 Dart that sets the Center Link lower by about 2 inches? My Pitman Arm I got is longer than OEM, but the Center Link is horizontally not level. The Idler Arm needs to be longer too. The OEM Idler Arm is allowing my Center Link to hit the bottom of my oil pan with a 440 in the car. It turns to full left without hitting, but to the right is a problem. I don't want to swap to another Oil Pan, but I can't find a longer Idler arm anywhere.

Do I have to have one professionally welded to make it a little longer? Any advice is appreciated,
 
Thank you Professor;

I have a special Canton Oil Pan that they custom made for me. I expected it to drop in place, but I think they expected me to have the Idler Arm that is already lower.

I called Firm Feel and they are sending me photos of their A-Body Big Block Idler Arm they say is lower.

I appreciate your quick response to my question.
 
BHB4408 said:
I called Firm Feel and they are sending me photos of their A-Body Big Block Idler Arm they say is lower.
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Interested to see what you find out. I have a 340 with long tube headers and my center link rubs really bad on the headers. I wonder if this idler arm could be a solution. What pitman arm do you have?
 
Just throwin this opinion out there.....there's no way in HAYLE I'd cut and reweld a piece of front end linkage or suspension. No way no how.
 
Professor Fate said:
Factory used different idlers and pitmans on big block A bodies.
Shown here from Firm Feel, also available elsewhere (but tough to find).
Firmfeel Mopar Suspension and Steering
Exactly which oil pan DO you have? Not all factory pans lend themselves to A body swaps.
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MOPARMAGA said:
Yep, that's the facts.
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I don't know what the problem is, I did the big block swap in an original small block 67 fastback in the late 70's, nothing special except b-body hp manifolds, custom built motor mounts and a dented oil pan for the idler arm.
To this day still using standard 67 front suspension parts with headers and the proper 6 quart big block a body oil pan from Mancini.
I was probably one of the first to swap hedman b-body headers with a low deck in a body, way before big block dart did it.
 
fishmens67 said:
I don't know what the problem is, I did the big block swap in an original small block 67 fastback in the late 70's, nothing special except b-body hp manifolds, custom built motor mounts and a dented oil pan for the idler arm.
To this day still using standard 67 front suspension parts with headers and the proper 6 quart big block a body oil pan from Mancini.
I was probably one of the first to swap hedman b-body headers with a low deck in a body, way before big block dart did it.
Click to expand...
I should be able to get away with my stock /6 junk with the dry sump system.
 

Thank you all;

Jeremiah had a great idea. I'll get the Idler and Pitman Arms, and the Center Link for a 1973 Dart. For that year, the Idler Arm enters the Center Link from the top, meaning the center link is mounted lower than the factory '72 Center Arm. The Idler Arms are almost identical other than how the Arm enters the Center Link from the top. I'm going to give it a shot. Thank you,
 
BHB4408 said:
Thank you all;

Jeremiah had a great idea. I'll get the Idler and Pitman Arms, and the Center Link for a 1973 Dart. For that year, the Idler Arm enters the Center Link from the top, meaning the center link is mounted lower than the factory '72 Center Arm. The Idler Arms are almost identical other than how the Arm enters the Center Link from the top. I'm going to give it a shot. Thank you,
Click to expand...
Jeremiah is a very smart dude, very helpful.
I am going to give this a try as well.
 
BHB4408 said:
Thank you all;

Jeremiah had a great idea. I'll get the Idler and Pitman Arms, and the Center Link for a 1973 Dart. For that year, the Idler Arm enters the Center Link from the top, meaning the center link is mounted lower than the factory '72 Center Arm. The Idler Arms are almost identical other than how the Arm enters the Center Link from the top. I'm going to give it a shot. Thank you,
Click to expand...

I went that route when I swapped oil pans. Now my steering rubs on my torsion bars (and still rubs the oil pan).
 
Has anyone tried to check a B,C,D,E,F,M,J body idler against A body idler/pitman arms? Just a thought but who knows. May be enough difference to work. I never compared them as I guess I was lucky enough to not need to change any arms on any of the cars I’ve built. Kim
 
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