lowering convertible top questions
- Thread starter Dave NEO
- Start date
-
Best to raise or lower it when it is warm.
Keep side windows down a few inches.
But no special instructions.
Keep side windows down a few inches.
But no special instructions.
well thanks . that's reasonable stuff most of us would do I think. I was just concerned I could be pinching top material and inviting some tears or whatever.. maybe overthinking this as usual. I see there is some pulling away of some inside material from the last bar above rear window though. Am wondering if I caused this somehow...
Last edited:
How old is the top
Funny i just reread your post. I was thinking putting the top up, you were talking putting it down. Same recomendations above but i would help guide the top to follow the natural folds.
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
I lower my top 1/2 way unzip the plastic window,lay it in the well and then push out the sections between the bows so they don't pinch anywhere (it's in my 66 FSM to do it that way also) but I've done it that way for over 30 years on all the plastic window convertibles I've owned and never ruined a top yet. Glass window tops don't usually need to be unzipped but the sections in between the bows do need pushed out till they get a memory of how that store, then I just lower them and watch to make sure they fold correctly. pushing out the material helps it fold lower so the boot goes on a bit easier too!
Last edited:
65Val
Average Length Member
I have the plastic window in my vert, and I just lower it about 2/3rds of the way, then make sure there's no creases in the window, and lower it the rest of the way and install the tonneau cover.. Has worked for me for 14-odd years (top is older than that!)
cool - that's what I was looking for, thanks - Mine is '68 with glass window - I know I don't have to unzip it. But seems keeping the folds of material out of the bows and hinges would be same issue. Manual says nothing about it though, that's why I'm asking.
Last edited:
At some point the factory added some little wire fingers to all top frames. These to hold the top material out of a pinch point. If my memory serves there was a TSB on adding these to the earlier frames that didn't include them. I seem to recall drawings of these wire fingers and one forum member fabricating them. I don't know how many years ago that was.
So maybe check that your frame does have these little wires attached with small screws. It's possible that the wire(s) broke and/or was discarded. When they did break they would poke a hole in the top.
So maybe check that your frame does have these little wires attached with small screws. It's possible that the wire(s) broke and/or was discarded. When they did break they would poke a hole in the top.
My 64 has the original top and rear window. I'm slightly paranoid about preserving it as it looks fine and doesn't leak! It's a manual top and the first time I lowered it, it wouldn't go all the way down so I picked it up slightly and carefully pulled all the material out between the metal frame members. I also unzip the plastic window and lay it flat in the well.
Your 68 should have a glass window so you're good there. If I were you, I'd lower it half way, stop, and pull the material out between the bows.
Your 68 should have a glass window so you're good there. If I were you, I'd lower it half way, stop, and pull the material out between the bows.
dibbons
Well-Known Member
I have a '65 manual top Valiant Signet and did not know anything about pulling the material out and away from the pinch areas. I would have to push and push very hard in order to get the top down far enough to latch it down/open. This worked for several years until I finally ripped the top on the driver's side forcing it down. The material got pinched and tore. So be gentle.
I never unzipped the plastic window, which did not seem to present a problem.
The flotation device patch I glued on turned yellow (it was sewed before the patch was put on).
I never unzipped the plastic window, which did not seem to present a problem.
The flotation device patch I glued on turned yellow (it was sewed before the patch was put on).
Last edited:
Oooh, that's bad. As you know, the top has to go down far enough to engage the plastic hooks on each side. Having material between the bows makes that very difficult. First time I tried driving with the top down after I got the car running, I didn't know better. I drove around the corner and the top started to go up by itself. Went home, looked at it a little closer, refolded, latched it into the hooks, and I was good. Once the top goes down in the spring, it's mostly down until fall. Oh, with the boot over it. Mine has a vertical cut on each side that had another patch of material on the inside that's supposed to cover it. Looks factory to me. Like it's some kind of strain relief. Shrugs. I saw the same thing on a b-body this summer.
I drove my car 350 miles through a steady down pour the whole way from the slant six drag race in KY in September and the top seemed to have shrunk a bit from the soaking.
I drove my car 350 miles through a steady down pour the whole way from the slant six drag race in KY in September and the top seemed to have shrunk a bit from the soaking.
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
ahh the "didn't stretch the top enough scenario" or they put a 24.5 rear bow height top on the 26" bow height frame and couldn't stretch it enough to hide the slit.
that slit on the bottom is supposed to be in the well area and hidden. if it's not in there and has been screw to the trim closer to the front of the car this happens.
yup they screwed the front piece to the trim and it couldn't stretch when the top was lowered. there is a post on here from a Malaysian 66 dart that shows the top with the slit in it and how it's supposed to go into the well area for drainage into the well area and down to the ground. This top was a 24.5 bow height and fit rather well except for the idiots screwing in the front section of the sailpanel near the rear quarter window.
Ah, ok. Slit should be deeper in the well.
But mine IS the factory top because it is date stamped on the inside. With month, day, 1964 and manufacturer name.
This car is better built compared to my 1968 and 69 cudas. Hard to believe they'd intentionally do this at the factory. But thanks for the possible explanation.
Any idea where the 24.5 or 26" bow height is measured from?
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
I had an original 65 that was the same way from the factory in 1970 .. it sucked, because it was otherwise perfect. Here is how I was told to measure bow height even if the top is not on you can use the cables to help finalize the location
dibbons
Well-Known Member
Is it possible to strip a vehicle for paint and re-use the convertible top you took off?
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
I've done a couple that way. I just undid the latched to release pressure removed the trim, the side sails panels and removed the rear window at the trim line blocked the rear bow into correct position so I kept correct bow height . I then folded everything Up and covered it well. sanded the dutchmans panel (which was bad on both convertibles I had to do) and painted car, reverse to install (do not unstaple from rear bow or it's almost impossible to redo). try to put the trim on without making new holes in rear window the you have a much better chance of lining the sail panels up so there are no wrinkles.
Mike69barracuda
Well-Known Member
I have a 69 Vert. No issues lowering or raising the top. I had to put on new cylinders. My only issue is the passenger front window and vent window frame needs to be raised up to seal with the top rail weatherstripping. Any tips???
-
