Lowering springs = can’t use bump stop?

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MRGTX

MRGTX

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Edit: title should read “snubber...”

So I installed my new rear axle/suspension with Hotchkis lowering springs. While the car isn’t even sitting as low as it did with the old 7.25” and old/sagging(?) stock springs, it looks like it’s still low enough that my Mancini Bump stop ain’t gonna work.

Even adjusted all the way down, the rubber is touching the contact point.

So did I screw something up?

FWIW, the springs SEEM too stiff. I haven’t driven it yet but I’m not able to compress the suspension all that much even by pushing hard on the bumper. I was expecting them to be firm but this surprised me. This is what prompted me to check on the bump stop...but it feels about the same even after removing it!

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Cut the top hole off the outer "box"?
Stupid Question...Are you trying to compress it with the snubber in there? I only ask because my Hotchkis springs seem more pliable than I would have thought, though I still have my car stripped, so no load on it whatsoever. But I am worried that it will be too squishy when I am done.
 
Thanks, guys. I like the idea of cutting down the snubber.
How much space would you recommend that I leave between the rubber and the body when at rest?

RogerRamRod said:
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Stupid Question...Are you trying to compress it with the snubber in there? I only ask because my Hotchkis springs seem more pliable than I would have thought, though I still have my car stripped, so no load on it whatsoever. But I am worried that it will be too squishy when I am done.
Click to expand...

Not a stupid question at all. This is how I discovered the lack of clearance but My snubber is now off the car and still, I'm able to bounce my 200lb girth on the bumper without much movement at all. So...sounds like we have opposite problems.
 
A 1" air gap on the street should be good. Take it from me, the first time you go over railway tracks quickly, you will wonder what is coming through the floor.
 
Ok. Thanks! 1" air gap for the snubber sounds like very little travel but I will go with it! :)

So...just sharing this for any other novice/idiot mechanics who might try this job: some bolts must be tightened with a load on the springs. Is that obvious? probably...but I didn't think of it.

So this came up when I called Hotchkis about the super stiff feeling to the springs and they suggested that if I tightened the front eyelet bolt when the car wasn't on it's wheels, that I'm probably in "bushing bind." The remedy is to loosen the bolt, bounce the car up and down and re-tighten the bolt. I will try this tonight and I'll keep you guys posted.

I'm obviously not a good mechanic (though I am a motivated one) but something told me that I probably made that exact kind of a mistake. Someday, I'll anticipate this kind of thing. :D
 
MRGTX said:
Ok. Thanks! 1" air gap for the snubber sounds like very little travel but I will go with it! :)

So...just sharing this for any other novice/idiot mechanics who might try this job: some bolts must be tightened with a load on the springs. Is that obvious? probably...but I didn't think of it.

So this came up when I called Hotchkis about the super stiff feeling to the springs and they suggested that if I tightened the front eyelet bolt when the car wasn't on it's wheels, that I'm probably in "bushing bind." The remedy is to loosen the bolt, bounce the car up and down and re-tighten the bolt. I will try this tonight and I'll keep you guys posted.

I'm obviously not a good mechanic (though I am a motivated one) but something told me that I probably made that exact kind of a mistake. Someday, I'll anticipate this kind of thing. :D
Click to expand...

Yes, depending on the bushing material. If rubber torque at ride height. If other (i.e. Delrin, urethane, etc) you can typically torque either way. I use ride height reguardless but sometimes that's not possible. Typically, lowering springs will have a higher rate due to them being of performance nature, but not always.
 
I would suggest definitely tighten all bushing mounting hardware with suspension loaded, no matter the material they are made from. Just too important of a proceedure not to, at least to me. I have never encountered an instance when it wasn't possible to do so. Maybe not always easy to access hardware, but do-able. You can always let suspension down and double check your torque, if you felt your leverage/tool choice was inadequate enough with it loaded.
 
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