Lowering the Rear

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TheContractorDude

TheContractorDude

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I am looking for advice on how I should approach lowering the rear of my 1967 Barracuda.

Current set up front:
BBP brake set up
Tubular UCA
Adjustable strut rod
BB torsion bars Mopar Performance
15x7 steel rims with 215/60/15

Current set up rear:
SS springs
BBP axles and brakes (drum)
15x7 steel rims with 255/60/15

I am going for a moderate performance handling ride. I know I need to replace my leaf springs but with what? I am loving the lower stance in the front. I have been researching the forums and learning about lower spring rates with small arches.

The rear is much too high. I am going for a tucked wheel look. The SS springs where install to fit 275/60/15's which looked great for that period of my life.

rear.JPG




Front looks good, needs an alignment.
front.JPG


IMG_2030.JPG


I like the idea of using the firm feel spring hanger which would require springs with 5/8" bolt diameter. This give you the option for stock or lowered mounting position.
Firmfeel Mopar Suspension and Steering

Do I want to run zero arch springs?
Or 120 to 130 rate with rear sway bar (which I have in the attic :))

Thanks in advance!!!!
 
How far do you want to drop it? Are you happy with the ride of the SS springs, outside of the height?
If you like the ride with your current springs, then flipping the front spring mounts will get you about an inch, more than that consider using lowering blocks. Or take them to a truck spring shop and have them de-arched your preferred amount.
 
TheContractorDude said:
I know I need to replace my leaf springs but with what
Click to expand...
Are you replacing springs because of your current ride height challenge? or because of ride quality? If you are satified with ride quality then just use a lowering block. There are opinions on steel vs aluminum.....I personally do not have an opinion. It sounds like a lowering block and a sway bar will get you where you want to go. There is a rabbit hole you could look into.... the mono leaf/cal trac /sliders and that might be a little more dollars.....pending use of car. Good luck. nice looking 7!!

EDIT: Start with a 2". IMHO

I pretty much just said what the Prof said....Props to the Prof!
 
clementine said:
Are you replacing springs because of your current ride height challenge? or because of ride quality? If you are satified with ride quality then just use a lowering block. There are opinions on steel vs aluminum.....I personally do not have an opinion. It sounds like a lowering block and a sway bar will get you where you want to go. There is a rabbit hole you could look into.... the mono leaf/cal trac /sliders and that might be a little more dollars.....pending use of car. Good luck. nice looking 7!!

EDIT: Start with a 2". IMHO

I pretty much just said what the Prof said....Props to the Prof!
Click to expand...

Yes the current ride height needs to drop and yes the ride quality needs to be improved. It was my understanding that SS springs are good for two things raising the rear for big tires and going hard off the line (straight). Not consider so much for handling. I would not want to use lowering blocks although I do appreciate the suggestions.

Thanks
 
Ss springs are primarily designed for straight line performance, that's true, but because of the shorter (than a b-body, same as an a-body) stiffer front section, can be made to handle well, with a rear sway bar.
But, if the height has to go, and lowering blocks are out of the question, spring replacement is the obvious solution.
If ride is a concern, go with a standard spring, not an HD. Then add your sway bar.
Edit I'd be curious as to the part #s of your current ss springs. I have 3400lbs ss springs on my car, and it sits at least three inches lower than yours.
 
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TheContractorDude said:
Yes the current ride height needs to drop and yes the ride quality needs to be improved. It was my understanding that SS springs are good for two things raising the rear for big tires and going hard off the line (straight). Not consider so much for handling. I would not want to use lowering blocks although I do appreciate the suggestions.

Thanks
Click to expand...
You might peruse the system for some of @72bluNblu 's trials and tribulations as well as @autoxcuda just a couple that come to mind.

I went to the 'steering/chassis' under the "forums" and typed in 'handling' and this popped up.....there is a ton more to look at.

Best rear suspension for drag/street handling

Plymouth duster rear suspension questions BAM

You might try a search for "monoleaf" or "cal-trac"
 
0F1017C1-1E0E-40CD-84F0-3E86713F0680.jpeg
C06C295A-BEB0-46FF-BF80-5AF53666467D.jpeg
I have Firm Feel with -1 drop. Wheels ar 17x8 in rear. I think they are 275/40.
 
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If handling is now the goal then yes, zero-arch springs are the way to go with a spring rate in the 120-140 lb/in range. That will put the car lower for sure, and will dramatically improve handling.

SS springs are too stiff for ideal handling. The A-body SS springs are in the 160 lb/in range, which makes them too stiff to run with a rear bar on a lot of cars.

Lowering blocks are fine, especially if you keep them small (under 2”). Pay attention to pinion angle changes when adding blocks. Lots of trucks run really large blocks because they have spring-under set up so blocks are lifting not lowering. Heck the late 60’s and 70’s Ford 4x4’s ran 4” blocks straight from the factory.
 
TheContractorDude said:
I am looking for advice on how I should approach lowering the rear of my 1967 Barracuda.

Current set up front:
BBP brake set up
Tubular UCA
Adjustable strut rod
BB torsion bars Mopar Performance
15x7 steel rims with 215/60/15

Current set up rear:
SS springs
BBP axles and brakes (drum)
15x7 steel rims with 255/60/15

I am going for a moderate performance handling ride. I know I need to replace my leaf springs but with what? I am loving the lower stance in the front. I have been researching the forums and learning about lower spring rates with small arches.

The rear is much too high. I am going for a tucked wheel look. The SS springs where install to fit 275/60/15's which looked great for that period of my life.

View attachment 1715984672



Front looks good, needs an alignment.
View attachment 1715984674

View attachment 1715984675

I like the idea of using the firm feel spring hanger which would require springs with 5/8" bolt diameter. This give you the option for stock or lowered mounting position.
Firmfeel Mopar Suspension and Steering

Do I want to run zero arch springs?
Or 120 to 130 rate with rear sway bar (which I have in the attic :))

Thanks in advance!!!!
Click to expand...

Do you have the old leaf springs in attic?

Try those.

Picking leaves is tough. So many factors. If you are a little high, 1/2” to 3/4” good spacer can be added. Not so easy the other ways.
 
If you want to lower the rear of the car and soften up the ride, start taking leaves out of the spring pack until the ride height is where you want. That is the most simple, cost effective way to do it.

I take enough leaves out until the car is lower than I want it and then put one leaf back in and send it.

And yes, it’s perfectly fine to lower the car that way.
 
Rat Bastid said:
If you want to lower the rear of the car and soften up the ride, start taking leaves out of the spring pack until the ride height is where you want. That is the most simple, cost effective way to do it.

I take enough leaves out until the car is lower than I want it and then put one leaf back in and send it.

And yes, it’s perfectly fine to lower the car that way.
Click to expand...
You beat me to it. Pecker.
 
If you do get new leaf’s you may want to look at ESPO. From what I have read on this site They have good tech support when ordering and are a lot cheaper than Firm Feel and if you read through the threads everyone is very satisfied with ESPO. I had to change my pinion angle with the -1 drop. I used pinion shims it was easy. I have coil overs in the front so lowering the front was easy. I have no knowledge of torsion bar lowering so I don’t know how going that low would affect the front lowering.
 
loganscuda said:
If you do get new leaf’s you may want to look at ESPO. From what I have read on this site They have good tech support when ordering and are a lot cheaper than Firm Feel and if you read through the threads everyone is very satisfied with ESPO. I had to change my pinion angle with the -1 drop. I used pinion shims it was easy. I have coil overs in the front so lowering the front was easy. I have no knowledge of torsion bar lowering so I don’t know how going that low would affect the front lowering.
Click to expand...

Lol. Lowering the front with torsion bars is easier than with coilovers. Cheaper too!
 
Mopar Performance circle track springs are an option.No...they are not stiff, the ride is excellent, i have used them.They will lower the rear, improve handling and have height adjustments. I believe they are still available and reasonably priced.
 
ir3333 said:
Mopar Performance circle track springs are an option.No...they are not stiff, the ride is excellent, i have used them.They will lower the rear, improve handling and have height adjustments. I believe they are still available and reasonably priced.
Click to expand...

Ehh, still available is a bit of a question mark and whether or not you actually want to use them is a different story. The manufacturing location has changed a couple times and at least one run of them was not particularly good in the quality department. I’d love to still recommend those but unless something has changed with the manufacturing quality quite recently I wouldn’t get them.
 
Our spring shop pointed out the test marks on mine and told me the quality was high. Maybe mine were old stock and recent ones are poor quality?
 
ir3333 said:
Our spring shop pointed out the test marks on mine and told me the quality was high. OK maybe mine were old stock and recent ones are poor quality?
Click to expand...

When did you order them? And where were they made?
 
purchased them from a friend but they were new. Maybe made in Mexico but that's a guess?
 
ir3333 said:
Mopar Performance circle track springs are an option.No...they are not stiff, the ride is excellent, i have used them.They will lower the rear, improve handling and have height adjustments. I believe they are still available and reasonably priced.
Click to expand...
They are absolute garbage. Don't buy them. See my build thread for details.

I have Hotchkis springs and think they have the car sitting at the correct height and the handling is amazing.
 
72bluNblu said:
Lol. Lowering the front with torsion bars is easier than with coilovers. Cheaper too!
Click to expand...
Thanks that’s why I said I don’t know about torsion bars. I don’t know how far you can lower with tosion bars and if affects geometry and performance if you max out the lower ride height.
 
ir3333 said:
purchased them from a friend but they were new. Maybe made in Mexico but that's a guess?
Click to expand...

racerjoe said:
They are absolute garbage. Don't buy them. See my build thread for details.

I have Hotchkis springs and think they have the car sitting at the correct height and the handling is amazing.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the quality of those springs really fell off when MP moved all the production to Mexico. It seemed like it got worse as it went too.

I have set I haven’t run, but I was not super impressed by their general appearance. The AFCO springs I have on my Duster are much better, but due to some kind of licensing deal when the MP circle track springs came back AFCO stopped making the 121 lb/in springs they were offering. Not a good trade IMO.

loganscuda said:
Thanks that’s why I said I don’t know about torsion bars. I don’t know how far you can lower with tosion bars and if affects geometry and performance if you max out the lower ride height.
Click to expand...

Depending on the spring rate of thr tosion bars you run you can lower up to 2” or so, which is about as low as you can go with anything because you run out of wheel well with any decently tall tire and reasonable suspension travel.

The torsion bar suspension geometry improves when the car is lowered, best geometry for that suspension with radial tires actually occurs when the car is lowered close to 2”. Performance improves as long as you keep the spring rate and the amount of lowering you’re doing matched up.
 
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