Lunati Solid roller lifter question.

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1968FormulaS340

1968FormulaS340

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Lunati Solid roller lifter question.

Do the standard Lunati solid roller lifters require grinding to clear the link bar? (I called Lunati and they didn't know..... ) P/N: 72420LUN
Vertical Bar Roller Lifters - Mopar 318-360 Qty 16

The bigger question. I am looking for a premium solid roller that does not require grinding of the block or head.

I almost ordered
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-69542-16/

But thought I would check here one more time.


Im down to lifter selection then I can put my engine together (time allowing).
 
I don't know the part number, but comp cams has a drop in solid roller lifter (the one the Brian, aka OU812 helped design). The original comp lifter 828-16 (I think that's the part number) DOES need clearancing.....that's what I have...pain in the rear.

I have heard that Howards cams has a solid roller lifter that you can drop in backwards that works with no clearancing....cheap too (read about it over on Moparts). Do some more digging, you'll find it.
 
Brian's lifters require modification of the push rod holes in the head. I can't believe the Lunati tech guy didn't know if grinding was needed........

Grinding isn't a big deal but I would like to avoid it. I will keep looking and try to find an option that is under $755.
 
There is a Comp Cams lifter that has the guide bar moved from the block side of the lifter ear to the opposite side. I have heard this does away with most or all the the block grinding. It does not change any head mods though.
 
Rocket said:
There is a Comp Cams lifter that has the guide bar moved from the block side of the lifter ear to the opposite side. I have heard this does away with most or all the the block grinding. It does not change any head mods though.
Click to expand...

yes #8043-16 i think is the partnumber,my set dropped right in they are close to the block but does not touch enough clearance in my block that i feel safe!
on the isue with grinding the heads im not realy sure, since the guy who ported my heads asked me about what size pushrods i was going to use before i got the heads back so he might have clearanced them alitle for my 3/8" pushrods but they dont touch anywhere that i have noticed,and the pushrodholes are straight.
 
I bought the Hughes Solid Roller lifters, can't say how good they are yet but I do know they just drop in.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
Brian's lifters require modification of the push rod holes in the head. I can't believe the Lunati tech guy didn't know if grinding was needed........

Grinding isn't a big deal but I would like to avoid it. I will keep looking and try to find an option that is under $755.
Click to expand...

Absolutely not true! Don't know where you've heard this but the comp 8043 lifters don't move the pushrod enough to need work to the head. It may be the head needs the work, because of rocker ratio or poor design (W2's for instance). I used these lifters in our 620HP small block build in CarCraft with edelbrock heads and used 11/32 Manton pushrods and 1.65 TD rockers and I had to grind the pushrod hole slightly at the top and bottom. Most guys don't run that much ratio or this setup so I highly doubt the lifter caused any of this.
Now the hyd. roller lifters out there will cause more problems...but you won't find a better lifter for the $$$ than the 8043.
Brian
 
ou812 said:
Absolutely not true! Don't know where you've heard this but the comp 8043 lifters don't move the pushrod enough to need work to the head. It may be the head needs the work, because of rocker ratio or poor design (W2's for instance). I used these lifters in our 620HP small block build in CarCraft with edelbrock heads and used 11/32 Manton pushrods and 1.65 TD rockers and I had to grind the pushrod hole slightly at the top and bottom. Most guys don't run that much ratio or this setup so I highly doubt the lifter caused any of this.
Now the hyd. roller lifters out there will cause more problems...but you won't find a better lifter for the $$$ than the 8043.
Brian
Click to expand...

No problems if the lifter oiling has been cut off with tubes. I just won't get the benefit of the direct oiling, correct?
 
FWIW, I did not have to touch my heads with the comp lifters I used (828-16)....and I believe they are the same lifter as the 8043, but the link bar is on the back side which is why I had to grind my block.

The 828-16 are cheaper (435 bucks) but require block grinding.

The 8043-16 are more expensive (600 bucks) but drop in... TOTALLY WORTH THE EXTRA MONEY!!! This is the opinion of someone that spent hours with a grinder AFTER my block was fully cleaned:angry7:.....oh well.
 
Just ordered the comp 8043 lifters. Should be here in a few days. Going with the crower cam I had before, I was happy with it.

I don't know what I will do when this car is actually moving under it's own power again.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
No problems if the lifter oiling has been cut off with tubes. I just won't get the benefit of the direct oiling, correct?
Click to expand...

Correct. You also won't oil the bearings but they'll still last a long time if taken care of. Glad to see you went with them...let us know how you like them!
Brian
 
flyfish said:
FWIW, I did not have to touch my heads with the comp lifters I used (828-16)....and I believe they are the same lifter as the 8043, but the link bar is on the back side which is why I had to grind my block.

The 828-16 are cheaper (435 bucks) but require block grinding.

The 8043-16 are more expensive (600 bucks) but drop in... TOTALLY WORTH THE EXTRA MONEY!!! This is the opinion of someone that spent hours with a grinder AFTER my block was fully cleaned:angry7:.....oh well.
Click to expand...

If this didn't say it all on top of what OU812 posted, I do not know what else to say.

Thanks to you two guys! :prayer:
 
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