Machining recommendations 440

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Kent mosby

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I have a 440 from 1973 that is stock bore, steel crank, six pack rods, stock pistons.
We are planning to put a stroker kit from 440source in it to make it 500 ci.
Since we will be replacing the entire rotating assembly I wanted to know what machining operations you recommend before that. I know I have to hone and bore cylinders. I should have the block magnafluxed as well. What about line boring the crank journals and camshaft bearing journals? Is decking needed or recommended? What do you look for in a machine shop?
 
Where are you located in Idaho if I may ask?
 
If the shop has a 2 spindle mechanical honing machine with diamond abrasive, you are on the right track. A boring machine that is indexed off of the crankshaft bore is nice too. It is all needed and don't forget about the lifter bores.
 
Kent mosby said:
COEUR D’ ALENE. Or Post falls. 83814
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I used to live in Post Falls. Had the 426 in my '65 Coronet redone by Pat at Pat's Trans Doc back in the day. He was the big Mopar guy in the area back then, had a whole fleet of Hemi cars including some factory race Hemi stuff. No idea where to go these days but I'm sure there are some good shops in the area. Lots of motorheads up there.

Do you have a copy of my big block book? The book should answer most of your questions. You can get it at Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1613250924/?tag=joeychgo-20
 
AndyF said:
I used to live in Post Falls. Had the 426 in my '65 Coronet redone by Pat at Pat's Trans Doc back in the day. He was the big Mopar guy in the area back then, had a whole fleet of Hemi cars including some factory race Hemi stuff. No idea where to go these days but I'm sure there are some good shops in the area. Lots of motorheads up there.

Do you have a copy of my big block book? The book should answer most of your questions. You can get it at Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1613250924/?tag=joeychgo-20
Click to expand...

Yes I do have a copy. I am only up to valvetrain in my reading. Thanks for replying. I think pat did my t5 for my 1950 Chevy 10 years ago. Your book is a great reference manual

image.jpg
 
He's retired. He can't help him... It's against the rules....lol.
 
AndyF said:
I used to live in Post Falls. Had the 426 in my '65 Coronet redone by Pat at Pat's Trans Doc back in the day. He was the big Mopar guy in the area back then, had a whole fleet of Hemi cars including some factory race Hemi stuff. No idea where to go these days but I'm sure there are some good shops in the area. Lots of motorheads up there.

Do you have a copy of my big block book? The book should answer most of your questions. You can get it at Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1613250924/?tag=joeychgo-20
Click to expand...


I think I need to read chapter 2 about block preparation. Tonight's bedtime reading
 
^^^^
Kent mosby said:
I think I need to read chapter 2 about block preparation. Tonight's bedtime reading
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Yes definitely you're looking for a full block prep for a 440 source rotating assembly. Also when you find this reputable shop it maybe worth a couple extra dollars to have them re balance your rotating assembly before you install it. Some aftermarket suppliers pre balanced assemblies aren't all they're cracked up to be.
 
There was a thread on Yellow Bullet recently where a guy was asking about engine builders in the North Idaho area. Several names were suggested. I didn't recognize any of them but that isn't a surprise. I moved back in the 80's so it has been almost 40 years since I lived there.
 
I have a machine shop in Idaho Falls that does work for me. It's a long haul from Post Falls. In fact I'm headed there today.
 
It depends on what power level you are seeking . In any event , a full block prep is in order but first the block must be clearance for the stroker , the lifter bores checked for clearance and the oiling system modified . doing this first allows you to budget build at the outset and make upgrades later . AS jpar mentioned ,I would have the stroker kit balance checked . On final note , clean , clean , clean and check EVERY dimension . It pays off .
 
Kent mosby said:
I have a 440 from 1973 that is stock bore, steel crank, six pack rods, stock pistons.
We are planning to put a stroker kit from 440source in it to make it 500 ci.
Since we will be replacing the entire rotating assembly I wanted to know what machining operations you recommend before that. I know I have to hone and bore cylinders. I should have the block magnafluxed as well. What about line boring the crank journals and camshaft bearing journals? Is decking needed or recommended? What do you look for in a machine shop?
Click to expand...

I have mine zero decked, stud the heads and mains and line hone, Magna flux
 
Standard for me are:
airless shot, magnaflux, sonic check, fit main studs, align hone, square deck to my specifications, bore, torque plate hone with proper finish for rings being used. Assembly gets measured carefully, rods cycled and corrected as necessary, assembly internally balanced. I do the block mods for the oiling system, deburring, bore chamfers, tapping, and cleaning.
 
Thanks a lot @moper. I found a shop that will do all the machining. Tomorrow morning I will give him the block for cleaning and magnaflux, He will measure for how much he will need to machine and then I can order the stroker kit from 440source.com according to what is needed. All the machining will be done. 440 sends their rotating assembles balanced but I will have the entire thing checked when I get it again before install. I am looking forward to starting the build. I have to measure the oil pickup but I think it is stock. I can drill and tap for larger if needed
 
Cool. I'm not a fan of 'Source's balancing so I prefer to have control over who does that. The rods need to be cycled - meaning clean them, then lube the screws with the correct ARP lube, then torqued in stages, and loosened and retorqued a few times. Then have them measured. Assume they'll need the big ends resized and the pin ends honed (do not use sandpaper or emery like Source says).
You don't need the larger pickup. If you want to mess at all with the suction side, use a ball burr and remove the sharp "v" angle on the inside of the suction passage in the block. The larger pickup won't do much, and won't do anything if you leave that bad turn untouched.
 
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