Magnum exhaust manifolds ball-flange to LA pipes?

Magnum Engine Swaps

  1. 67Charger

    67Charger Member

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    Is the exhaust manifold ball/socket compatible with LA headpipes?

    I am currently using a Durango Y-pipe, but it hangs REALLY low. Rather than refab the lower pipe, I'm thinking of either making an entirely new Y or going duals. Either way, can I use replacement LA style ball sockets with the Magnum manifolds?
     
  2. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    I may have a scrap LA head pipe and mag manifold I'll "try fit" them. I can't imagine they are that precision. The 5.9 ones are larger, or at least a pair I have
     
  3. Treblig

    Treblig Well-Known Member

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    There are 2 sizes of Magnum manifolds. If you have the larger ones (2 1/8" outlet) I sell the bell flared connection that goes against the manifold. If you have the smaller outlet you should be able to get the local muffler shop to form the flared fitting but it probably won't be bell flared like the factory ones.


    The one on the right is the bell flared large hole magnum connector.

    DSC03980.JPG


    Treblig
     
  4. 67Charger

    67Charger Member

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    I'll have to look when I get home. The individual pipes leading to the Y are only about 1.5" - 1.75", but they are most definitely like the bell you show on the right.
     
  5. rdunnam

    rdunnam RDunnam

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    Treblig, what do you get for a pair of those bell flared 2 1/8 ? Is this something my local muff shop should have also ?
     
  6. Treblig

    Treblig Well-Known Member

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    The bell flare is something that was only made by the factory (they made the dies). Although you might be able to buy some properly bell flared pipes from an aftermarket "on line" company like Summit (but I'm not sure and they won't be cheap). I have 2 sections of properly "bell" flared down pipe left over from I used to make them. No muffler shop has the correct dies so I would get a regular piece of 2 1/4" pipe and get a large straight flare made at the muffler shop then bring them home and use a 360 magnum manifold (large hole) to hammer (peen) a bell into the flat flare so that the flare would match the bell of the manifold. I'm a machinist so I'm pretty good at that kind of stuff. I would sell the flared pipe with the flange adapter for $30 plus shipping. At the moment I don't have any flange adapters but I could get more. I will sell the 2 remaining sections of magnum bell flared pipe for $21 each plus shipping.
    The only reason I started making the bell and 340 (see pic) flat flared pipe is that they are hard to find for a decent price, if you can find them at all. The correct flange adapters are also hard to find for a decent price.
    I've stopped selling 340 and 360 magnum manifolds so I also stopped making the flared pipe. I have a few pieces of bell flared pipe (as seen in pic) left over. I also have some "super tight" mandrel bent 2 1/2" pipe that I used to use to make the driver's side 340 down pipe as seen below:

    DSC04192.JPG DSC04193.JPG DSC04196.JPG DSC04197.JPG DSC04199.JPG DSC04203.JPG

    I made this stuff because you can't buy it anywhere....................

    Treblig
     
  7. rdunnam

    rdunnam RDunnam

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    Thanks for the info, I may try the peen method, from flat to bell against the manifold end, and go easy and little at a time, right, cast iron, right? If I can't come up with what I need, I'll get back, may be money ahead getting those from you. Thanks.
     
  8. Treblig

    Treblig Well-Known Member

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    But can beat on it pretty hard against the magnum manifold (it's extremely stout). Just be sure to keep rotating the pipe and keeping it perfectly aligned so that the bell fits perfectly against the manifold or you'll get a leak. The correct flange adapter also helps get a good seal. I've removed many of the factory bell flared pipes at the scrap yard and I can tell you that the pipe becomes physically attached to the manifold (perfect fit) after a period of time to the point that you have smack real hard with a big hammer to get it to come loose even after you've removed the flange adapter. Good Luck and let me know if you need one of the last few that I have. Remember....you'll have to buy a piece of pipe then pay to get it flat flared.
    I always mount the manifold in a big vice to get a good solid surface to hammer against.

    Treblig
     
  9. rdunnam

    rdunnam RDunnam

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  10. Treblig

    Treblig Well-Known Member

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    I've run one set of "Jet Hot" ceramic coated headers. The coating didn't last long because of the environment I live in (very hot and humid year round). But you do have a point when it comes to "BREAK IN". In your case, if you're not going to run the car in the streets very long before you swap to headers i would just get a good angle flair (non-bell) on the pipes. It should seal OK for break in. The muffler shops run a regular angle flair on the magnum type manifolds and they do seal for the most part. I don't like the non-bell flair because I've seen how well the "bell" flair seals.
    In your case, you're not looking for a long term solution using the cast iron manifolds so it's not so important that you get a great "long lasting" seal.

    Treblig
     
  11. rdunnam

    rdunnam RDunnam

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    That's a great point Treblig, thank you.
     
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