Magnum reseal questions?..

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j par

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So I'm going to pull the Magnum out of my 98 2500.. I just ordered the Hughes intake manifold repair kit.. I'm dropping a quart of oil seemingly every hundred miles. Nothing on the ground and it doesn't seem to smoke whatsoever. No check engine lights.. my plan is to just pull the motor completely. I'd like to put it on my engine stand and reseal... I was very much hoping to flop the AC compressor off to the side so I don't have to get into de-charging and recharging? I would like to repaint the engine Maybe like corporate blue or something so I can detect oil leaks in the future? Plus I like the color.. I would like to give the engine they say a good scrubbing while the engine is out. Well I have it out I'm thinking of the timing chain? Are they like the old LA Motors? It only has a hundred and thirty thousand miles.. I'd like to change the rear main seal and anything else..
I'm looking for any dues or don'ts? I appreciate everybody's experience and help ahead of time... Thank you..
 
So I'm going to pull the Magnum out of my 98 2500.. I just ordered the Hughes intake manifold repair kit.. I'm dropping a quart of oil seemingly every hundred miles. Nothing on the ground and it doesn't seem to smoke whatsoever. No check engine lights.. my plan is to just pull the motor completely. I'd like to put it on my engine stand and reseal... I was very much hoping to flop the AC compressor off to the side so I don't have to get into de-charging and recharging? I would like to repaint the engine Maybe like corporate blue or something so I can detect oil leaks in the future? Plus I like the color.. I would like to give the engine they say a good scrubbing while the engine is out. Well I have it out I'm thinking of the timing chain? Are they like the old LA Motors? It only has a hundred and thirty thousand miles.. I'd like to change the rear main seal and anything else..
I'm looking for any dues or don'ts? I appreciate everybody's experience and help ahead of time... Thank you..
268,*** miles on mine. Many out there with 300+k miles. You wouldn't need to do all that. Just the intake job. However, means you'll have the motor out...…
 
It's basically all the same as an LA. DON'T pull the cam or distributor. That will mess up the sync with the PCM and it will need a special scanner to sync it.

Side note, my grandpa has a '96 1500 with a 5.9. It has 473k miles on it. The engine has had valve seals replaced while in the truck, and the plenum gasket replaced. They really are great engines.
 
It's basically all the same as an LA. DON'T pull the cam or distributor. That will mess up the sync with the PCM and it will need a special scanner to sync it.

Side note, my grandpa has a '96 1500 with a 5.9. It has 473k miles on it. The engine has had valve seals replaced while in the truck, and the plenum gasket replaced. They really are great engines.
thank you! I really just want to clean it up and reseal it and clean up the engine bay. I could just do the top-end but it seems like I'm half doing the job if I don't do the oil pan and clean things up real well...
 
While it is hanging on the lift and still sealed up, knock out rhe freeze plugs and flush the water jacket. You will be amazed by all the crap in there. Remember your waterpump will thank you.
That is what the guy I got my 1500 did along with a new oil pump, timing chain and gaskets. No leaks so far.
 
While it is hanging on the lift and still sealed up, knock out rhe freeze plugs and flush the water jacket. You will be amazed by all the crap in there. Remember your waterpump will thank you.
That is what the guy I got my 1500 did along with a new oil pump, timing chain and gaskets. No leaks so far.
Good idea on the freeze plugs and cheap too..
 
Good idea on the freeze plugs and cheap too..

I adapted a 3 foot section of 1/4 tubing to my garden hose and put a 90 bend in the end for reaching into the block and rinsing it out.
Worked great.
 
I adapted a 3 foot section of 1/4 tubing to my garden hose and put a 90 bend in the end for reaching into the block and rinsing it out.
Worked great.
My Harbor Freight power washer is going to have its way with this thing for sure..:thumbsup:
 
If you do the pan gasket, pay close attention. The front corners on the aftermarket gaskets have a tendency to leak since they leave a gap where the rubber tits are supposed to be pulled through the pan.

I learned this one the hard way...and big puddles in the garage that never left a spot on the under carriage. It took weeks to figure out where it came from.
 
Made it to 300K on a Durango. Asked about a rear seal when the trans was done at 175k and was told it was fine. Still had original timing chain on it even after doing several water pumps and thinking it should be replaced being this far in. Good idea on freeze plugs. One behind trans looked bad when I parted it out.
 
If you do the pan gasket, pay close attention. The front corners on the aftermarket gaskets have a tendency to leak since they leave a gap where the rubber tits are supposed to be pulled through the pan.

I learned this one the hard way...and big puddles in the garage that never left a spot on the under carriage. It took weeks to figure out where it came from.
Thank you yeah I'm pretty good at putting way too much in the corners LOL.. I'm found that to be the problem on a few cars that I've worked on as well. And most know that I'm a big fan of Permatex "the right stuff" and I'm not afraid to use it...lol..
thank you...
 
Made it to 300K on a Durango. Asked about a rear seal when the trans was done at 175k and was told it was fine. Still had original timing chain on it even after doing several water pumps and thinking it should be replaced being this far in. Good idea on freeze plugs. One behind trans looked bad when I parted it out.
I bought it last year with a hundred and twenty two thousand miles. It does have a small rear main leak. I don't want to pull the motor but every fiber in me says if I'm going to do it right to pull the damn motor... Damn it! LOL..
 
Rear main seal leak but ended up with other issues. So tried to drop the pan and go that route but ended up with the motor totally apart. Need to install oil pump pickup, oil pan helicoil a shaft rocker stand bolt hole then reinstall. Btw not a Mopar.
 
I pulled that 5.9 out of the 2000 extended cab this summer. Took me and a helper 2 days and that was with the radiator and front radiator support already out.
Watch at the back of the intake the wiring harness it bolted to it.
 
I pulled that 5.9 out of the 2000 extended cab this summer. Took me and a helper 2 days and that was with the radiator and front radiator support already out.
Watch at the back of the intake the wiring harness it bolted to it.
Thank you for the harness bolt tip that's exactly the stuff that I'm looking for here..
Cool I should have it out in an afternoon..
By myself...
:poke:..
 
Highly recommend unbolting exhaust manifolds if you can rather than trying to pull it with them still on. It's a bear to get to those flange bolts.
 
Highly recommend unbolting exhaust manifolds if you can rather than trying to pull it with them still on. It's a bear to get to those flange bolts.
My transmission was rebuilt 6 months before I bought the truck. Those two exhaust bolts on each side look like they've been replaced they're not rusty like the manifold to block bolts are..?..
 
Also the motor mounts would not let the motor go forward without lifting it high up.

Did not have to remove the hood.
 
I've changed the plenum gasket 2 times on mine. 282k gonna buy the kit from Hughes as well.
Do the Timing chain, dampener, plenum kit, headers,y pipe, ultraflow..... if ya can..rhs mags w/2.02. That'll be me at some point.
 
I've changed the plenum gasket 2 times on mine. 282k gonna buy the kit from Hughes as well.
Do the Timing chain, dampener, plenum kit, headers,y pipe, ultraflow..... if ya can..rhs mags w/2.02. That'll be me at some point.
I just wanted to remain stock as a rock running good..
 
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