maiden voyage

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barbee6043 said:
And...if you get the new parts, you might have to do the job yourself. If the d/s shop has any older techs, they can refuse to fool with it too!!
There is a modern type conversion joiunt but a new d/s will cost ya!
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no fret bb.....im entering 50 yrs of trubleshooting/repairing/rebuilding/replacing..on everything from stinkin lawnmowers to bigtrucks to hevy eqmp/oilfield rigging..incl outboards ..im at the age where im thinking im fixing something for the first time...only to remember..oh my...ive done this before...im not the best..and i dont know it all..i speak a language of ol hands.....JUST BECAUSE YOU NEVER DID IT..DOES NOT MEAN YOU CANT...my last 13 yrs paying into the system..was as a hs shop teacher...old school of course..get those stinkin laptops out of hear...and every phone gos into this box when you walk in.....or it gos into a vice and i will teach a lession on leverage and crushing power....was born with dyslexia ...i let my students fix all crap spelling as like some members hear feel its necessary to cut others to feel big....i could care less...not once...from ny to ca to fl to alaska to canada to asia and europe has spelling ever made me more more money or less money.......yes bb.....ill do it my self!!! as for the techs of today..they have there place...but all my boys heard me many times.....a true mechanic is not a parts changer..we rebuild/repair when we can...never tell a customer you need this ..when your testing does not back you up...you will always make more money being a honest mechanic then a hack that just throws parts untill its fixed....guard your comback ratio....it is the true measure of being a top hand....fact is bb.....old guys that no longer want to mess with some stuff is ok..im getting there my self..i did not rebuild/recover the buckets seats.....just did not feel like it....200 well spent....mel out
 
Just saying,, finding a driveshaft shop that wants to fool with that ball/trunnion joint can be a search, at least around here. But like RRR said, they are plenty strong when in good condition.
 
I agree that the shudder-up-to-30 is the ball & trunnion front U-joint telling on itself. Can't recommend putting money-effort-time into rebuilding the B&T U-joint at this late date. The housing (trunnion) itself is probably worn, and now you're talking Money. Better and more future-proof: convert to a cross-and-roller front U-joint as described here.
 
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slantsixdan said:
I agree that the shudder-up-to-30 is the ball & trunnion front U-joint telling on itself. Can't recommend putting money-effort-time into rebuilding the B&T U-joint at this late date. The housing (trunnion) itself is probably worn, and now you're talking Money. Better and more future-proof: convert to a cross-and-roller front U-joint as described here.
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you could be right??? after i take it all apart ill know....hopfully no pitting and will clean up ok....car only has 45 k miles on it sitting since early 2ks.....might luck out?? but tks for that front joint info...may come in handy!!!!!
 
slantsixdan said:
I agree that the shudder-up-to-30 is the ball & trunnion front U-joint telling on itself. Can't recommend putting money-effort-time into rebuilding the B&T U-joint at this late date. The housing (trunnion) itself is probably worn, and now you're talking Money. Better and more future-proof: convert to a cross-and-roller front U-joint as described here.
Click to expand...
That's a nice conversion. I had it in the back of my mind, but I didn't remember where that article was. Now I'll bookmark it. Thank you kindly!
 
Yup, had the same shudder on my 61 Dodge when the ball & trunnion wore. I could not find a new one here at that time. So I spaced the housing back by using 3/8" spacers. Fixed the shudder & drove it like that for a couple of years.
 
Bewy said:
Yup, had the same shudder on my 61 Dodge when the ball & trunnion wore. I could not find a new one here at that time. So I spaced the housing back by using 3/8" spacers. Fixed the shudder & drove it like that for a couple of years.
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the things i never knew..in 2018..when resurching my parts list to build the 41 ply p11 custom coup...i was happily shocked..mopar was built in the land down under... s. america and africa....and maybe a few more...i had no idea...had great chats with gents from all over...its a nasty 52 deg this morning..burrrrr sorry to the northen guys i know you would still be out in your tees...me..ill wait till weds when its in the mid 70s to take the driveline out.....pantywaist yes but i earnd it.....

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IMG_0555.JPG
 
slantsixdan said:
I agree that the shudder-up-to-30 is the ball & trunnion front U-joint telling on itself. Can't recommend putting money-effort-time into rebuilding the B&T U-joint at this late date. The housing (trunnion) itself is probably worn, and now you're talking Money. Better and more future-proof: convert to a cross-and-roller front U-joint as described here.
Click to expand...
after diving deep into spicer#s the slip yoke # does not come up anywhere...2-3-800kx......there is a 8001kx..........
 
melcardona said:
after diving deep into spicer#s the slip yoke # does not come up anywhere...2-3-800kx......there is a 8001kx..........
Click to expand...
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Then all you need is a 2.5" drive shaft tube.
 
It's 2.5" a weld on u-joint yoke for a 1310 or "whatever" u-joint you're using on the rear of the drive shaft. If you can't find THAT, then I suggest stamp collecting. LOL
 
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