Main caps torque sequence

[4spdragtop]

Funny how FSM says squat about the sequence. Torque yep 85. But no sequence. Searched here and consensus was start with #3 and work outward in 3 steps.
BUT Mopar SB rebuild book by Taylor and Hofer say start at rear main get torqued in steps to 85. Do the rest EXCEPT #3.
Pry fwd and back a few times. Hold prying crank fwd while tightening #3 down.
Book by Larry Shepard mentions squat as well.
Which way for you guys?

 

[Plymouth 65]

Funny how FSM says squat about the sequence. Torque yep 85. But no sequence. Searched here and consensus was start with #3 and work outward in 3 steps.
BUT Mopar SB rebuild book by Taylor and Hofer say start at rear main get torqued in steps to 85. Do the rest EXCEPT #3.
Pry fwd and back a few times. Hold prying crank fwd while tightening #3 down.
Book by Larry Shepard mentions squat as well.
Which way for you guys?

I typically do 3 steps to final torque. First step to 10-15 ft lbs, tap the crank nose with a dead blow, then the rear flange. This will line up the thrust faces for #3 thrust bearing. Sequence I use is from #3 bearing cap out. Thx,65'

 

[67Dart273]

It should not matter which caps you do first. If the crank was a straight piece of rod, it would slide right through

 

[justinp61]

I typically do 3 steps to final torque. First step to 10-15 ft lbs, tap the crank nose with a dead blow, then the rear flange. This will line up the thrust faces for #3 thrust bearing. Sequence I use is from #3 bearing cap out. Thx,65'

^^This^^

 

[4spdragtop]

For arguments sake. Heres the book.

 

[belmateo]

Steve, their intention is to make sure the thrust bearing is seated against the block BEFORE you start to torque it to specs.

 

[67Dart273]

Steve, their intention is to make sure the thrust bearing is seated against the block BEFORE you start to torque it to specs.

That's right. The shoulder of the crank "faces" the two bearing halves so they are equal. Moving the crank fore/ aft (that's Navy talk for forwards and back LOL) moves the shells into alignment if they are not.

 

[famous bob]

Steve, their intention is to make sure the thrust bearing is seated against the block BEFORE you start to torque it to specs.

disagree, the purpose is to alighn the trust surfaces of the bearing to the crank. If their offset, it will wipe oil off the half that sticks out, resulting in a chewed up bearing and a crank.

 

[belmateo]

disagree, the purpose is to alighn the trust surfaces of the bearing to the crank. If their offset, it will wipe oil off the half that sticks out, resulting in a chewed up bearing and a crank.

Look at the post before you, it explains it better

 

[Cudafever]

This is not a head torque sequence, it don't matter. What matter is that you set #3 thrust bearing by moving the crank back and forth before torquing.......and the most important part check the end play with a dial.

 

[perfacar]

This is not a head torque sequence, it don't matter. What matter is that you set #3 thrust bearing by moving the crank back and forth before torquing.......and the most important part check the end play with a dial.

the correct method, is, # 1 then # 5, #2 #4, # 3 last, wedge the crank before tightening #3, also, use a dial ind to measure end play.

 

[Cudafever]

4spdragtop there is you answer^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
For argument, i set #3 preload.........fixed trust problem, re set thrust and then randomly torqed the rest.
My stroker is on its 3 season.......

 

[4spdragtop]

Not arguing here but it is funny how there are so many opinions/ways but no-one agrees with the book? Lol

 

[Cudafever]

You know the old saying.........There are many ways to skin a cat.......................