Making a change to my race motor build.

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Krooser

Building Chinese Free Engines since 1959...
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My trust in Ma Mopar metallurgy is still intact but I made a deal to buy a set of nice used Crower billet rods in place of my freshly redone 340 pieces.

No doubt the OEM could handle the self imposed 7200 rpm limit I have set but these were a good deal and I pulled the trigger.

Should have them Monday. I'll send them out to be checked.and resized as needed. I think the bolts will be ok.

These are vintage 1990 and were in a weekend cruiser that had the occasional 6k blast thru the traps.

Most of my engine is from 1993 so they will go good together.

I get the block back Oct 5th.
 
They are great rods. I bet you saved a little weight at the same time.
 
They are great rods. I bet you saved a little weight at the same time.
Actually those Crowers are within a few grams of the OEM.

I also found a deal on some Oliver rods...those a good. But I have a bit dhet..
 
These still have bolts and nuts instead of the newer style with just threaded bolts....still plenty good.
 
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Okay.....well here's a fly in the ointment...

Got home last night about 9pm. I figured I'd get out my scale and calipers and do some measuring.

I couldn't believe my eyes....the piston pins are .927 not .984 like I need for my new pistons. The guy said in his ad "stock Mopar dimentions"... dammit!

I'll get in touch with him to see what he says. It's likely I can get them honed to fit...we will see.If not I'll go after a refund thru PayPal. I paid via goods and services not F&F...
 
Okay.....well here's a fly in the ointment...

Got home last night about 9pm. I figured I'd get out my scale and calipers and do some measuring.

I couldn't believe my eyes....the piston pins are .927 not .984 like I need for my new pistons. The guy said in his ad "stock Mopar dimentions"... dammit!

I'll get in touch with him to see what he says. It's likely I can get them honed to fit...we will see.If not I'll go after a refund thru PayPal. I paid via goods and services not F&F...


You’re probably screwed. Maybe, just maybe you can use a Tobin-Arp or similar to bore the pin end of the rod out to take a Chrysler bushing, but the pin end looks mighty thin so there may not be enough material there to do it.

I know some brave cats who would run it without a bushing, but I ain’t got that kinda guts.
 
Nice rods. Is the big end Small block Mopar? What length are they?
 
Nice rods. Is the big end Small block Mopar? What length are they?
Big end is Mopar from what I measured with my calipers. I'll use my mics to get an exact measurements. I might just slide the rod and bearing on my crank to see how it fits.

The length appears to be stock just by comparing with a stock rod but going to measure them.

YR....lots of steel to steel used on high end engines. The Pankls I have came from Hendrick and that is how they are. My late buddy Jim Watson was a crank specialist for Rousch and he said that's what they do.
 
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Looks like Baxter Engines that did the machine work on my block can handle the fix on these rods.

Gary Baxter said he can either hone the existing bushings, use a thin new bushing or bore the small ends for a new bushing. Depends on the meat on the small end.

I also let the guy I bought these from that I wasn't PO'd at him...stuff happens. He seems like a stand up guy...
 
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