Mallory Dist Comp SS to Mallory HyFire VI

Electrical and Ignition

  1. 1969GTS340

    1969GTS340 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    As the title says, I am about to hook up a Mallory Comp SS distributor to a Mallory HyFire VI ignition controller. Both have 2 wires but differnt colors. The manual with each of these only shows wires connecting, not the colors. Can any Mallory users provide me with th e correct connections?
    The dist has REDand VIO. The box has BLK and GRN.

    20211016_121413.jpg 20211016_121507.jpg
     
  2. Rat Bastid

    Rat Bastid .004 light

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    I’m not familiar with the Mallory stuff but I think you can download the instructions for that stuff on the MSD website. Other than that, usually the lightest color wire on the distributor will hook to the lightest color wire on the box, and the darkest wire on the distributor will hook to the darkest wire on the box. Before I did that I would go to the MSD website and see if I could find the actual instruction sheet for the box and the distributor just to make sure you don’t hurt the box by hooking up something incorrectly.
     
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    • 1969GTS340

      1969GTS340 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      I have both manuals. But neither one confirms the color connections to the other. One says "to the dist" the other says " to the controller".
       
    • pishta

      pishta I know I'm right....

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      Itll run in either direction but one will move the timing a few degrees over. brn/grey is the male on the Chrysler distributor, Unilites had a 3 conductor in a different socket. Same pickup is sold to LA and RB, and the reluctors rotate in opposite directions. The pickup generates an AC (no polarity) signal but its a leading or trailing edge so it will alter the ignition timing a few degrees when switching lead colors.
       
      Last edited: Oct 16, 2021
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      • 1969GTS340

        1969GTS340 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        I was wondering if it would work in either direction, but having a 50/50 shot of being right, I didn't want to test the theory.
         
      • KitCarlson

        KitCarlson Well-Known Member

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        Bench test. Place coil cable from coil tower to ground, use clamp on timing light to observe rotor positions, related to cap tower locations. Spin distributor correct rotation with drill. Mark reference locations for towers on body, if no open test cap. Engine rpm is 2x distributor rpm. Same 2x for distributor advance degrees.
         
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        • 1969GTS340

          1969GTS340 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          In doing this bench test, what result would you expect to see if the 2 ignition box wires going to the distributor were reversed?
           
        • 67Dart273

          67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Google up "rotor phasing", there are some MSD videos. The whole deal is, the magnetic pickup produces both a positive going and negative going spike (or the other way around) as the reluctor rotates past the pickup. The "box" whatever you are using ONLY TRIGGERS on one of them. So if you reverse the wires, now the two spikes are MOVED IN TIME or distributor degrees of rotation in relation to some arbitrary fixed point. This moves where the spark triggers in relation to the cap tower contacts, and not only moves engine timing but causes cross-firing in the cap

          I've never run Mallory but surprised they don't document this better. Another example is the Mopar dist triggering a Mopar ECU, a GM HEI, or "some other" box like the Hyfire. Anything magnetic, you reverse the leads, phasing/ timing will be badly affected
           
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          • 1969GTS340

            1969GTS340 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Thanks 67- I will have to look up some videos and try to nail this down. Crazy to think this build has come to a screaching halt over two wires... haha. I am attaching a picture of the instructions where the box and distributor connect, in case it provides a clue to which way these go. 20211016_081525.jpg
             
          • KitCarlson

            KitCarlson Well-Known Member

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            Variable reluctance ignition triggers on a positive pulse preceded by a negative pulse. Observing at reluctor and pickup position, reluctor tooth approaches pickup nub, and signal goes negative, when aligned to nub signal is at zero, just as tooth is passing trailing edge signal goes positive, trigger happens, spark triggers light.

            If polarity is incorrect, trigger occurs as reluctor tooth approaches pickup leading edge. While that error is more than a tooth width, triggering in that manner, is not consistent. Negative pulse happened on prior tooth, then reluctor passes in long distance between teeth, positive pulse happens at a slow ramp on leading edge of next tooth, that may deviate with noise, or have false triggers.

            Timing light will show reluctor and nub position, and also tower phasing.
             
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            • KitCarlson

              KitCarlson Well-Known Member

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              IMG_0593 (Small).JPG
              Trigger point is as square wave drops from high to low. Imagine upper trace flipped over, that would be incorrect.

              Rotation direction does not change polarity, it changes what is leading or trailing edge. That is why BB reluctors flip over to compensate.
               
              Last edited: Oct 17, 2021
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              • 1969GTS340

                1969GTS340 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              • 33IMP

                33IMP Well-Known Member

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                Your pic doesnt show enough, the cut off portion to the right is relevant.
                Also, "yellow rose" has been banned here. Im sure he is back under another screen name, but i dont know what it is. I wish i did, i have a gold box for him to play with.
                I am using a mallory box and coil, with a mp distributor, i could run down some wires, but im 250 miles away from the car.
                 
              • 1969GTS340

                1969GTS340 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                20211020_162707.jpg Here is a picture of the whole layout. I don't have the adaptor cable in this drawing. The wires from the box have a spade connector and the wire connector on the Dist. do not have a gender style connector on the end,



                20211016_121507.jpg

                20211016_121413.jpg

                It comes.down to, does Red go to Green and Black go to Violet? Or in reverse of that?
                 
                Last edited: Oct 20, 2021
              • rumblefish360

                rumblefish360 I have escaped the evil Empire State! FABO Gold Member

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                So sorry I didn’t look into this when you posted it up. I’ve been doing homework for another on a Mallory VII box. That was a little tuff to find. But Jegs had the schematics.
                 
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                • 1969GTS340

                  1969GTS340 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  I just found this on line.

                  WIRING PROCEDURE
                  SERIES NOS. 84 AND 32 (SINGLE PICKUP)
                  There is a female connector with two wires coming from the distributor:
                  • Connect the distributor wire harness to the female connector and
                  route the harness two wires to the electronic ignition control.
                  • ORANGE-WIRE-(MAG+): Connect to the magnetic input
                  (MAG+)-terminal or wire on the electronic ignition control.
                  • PURPLE-WIRE-(MAG–): Connect to the magnetic input (MAG–)
                  terminal or wire on the electronic ignition control.

                  I was calling the Dist wires Red and Violet but I guess they could be Orange and Purple. If true... Orange would go to Green on the box and Purple to the Black ?
                   
                • rumblefish360

                  rumblefish360 I have escaped the evil Empire State! FABO Gold Member

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                  They look orange and purple to me. I can see the orange being called red though. It is very dark for an orange.
                  Purple to black is what I would do. I can not say that is correct though. It so does appear that way on the schematic.
                  The Red/Orange
                  (so close in color even they don’t know? LMAO! WTF?!?!)
                  to the Green also seems correct.

                  Inwish I could say with a %100 YES! But I can’t. Even though it does seem to be what the instructions say to do.
                   
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