MBM disc brakes

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ed1946

ed1946

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Anybody installed mbm disc brake spindle, I need some help. Am unable to tighten upper ball joint enough to install a cotter pin. Once you drop in sleeve do you need to do anything. Am using original control arm and the spindle uses big ball joint until you use sleeve. Have ruined 2 ball joints so far.
 
pics? sounds like you might have a problem with the A-arm. are you saying you can't tighten the ball joint into the arm enough, or you can't tighten the castle nut enough?
 
Can't tighten ball joint enough to get cotter pin in. Sleeves appear to be too thick. The ball joint shaft won't go in the spindle far enough. Talked to tech dept that sold kit and hid idea was emery cloth ball joint shaft. Don't think I'll ever get enough metal off to make a diff. Been sanding on sleeve and ball joint stem but still don't have enough clearance. Heres a pic from dr diff, I bought kit from somebody else, didn't get those nuts either.

a-body-upper-ball-joint-tapered-adapters.jpg
 
so your using small ball joint A-arms with large ball joint spindles and Dr Diff adapters. you say you can't get the cotter pin in, which is fine, but before that point there are two things that need to be done. the ball joint needs to be screwed into the arm all the way, is it? then make sure the boot is seated all the way against the bottom of the arm. after the spindle is in place the castle nut needs to be torqued. if the hole in the ball joint is covered, tighten nut until you can get the pin in.
what spindles are you using? if they come in the kit, can they tell you what they are?
 
kursplat said:
so your using small ball joint A-arms with large ball joint spindles and Dr Diff adapters. you say you can't get the cotter pin in, which is fine, but before that point there are two things that need to be done. the ball joint needs to be screwed into the arm all the way, is it? then make sure the boot is seated all the way against the bottom of the arm. after the spindle is in place the castle nut needs to be torqued. if the hole in the ball joint is covered, tighten nut until you can get the pin in.
what spindles are you using? if they come in the kit, can they tell you what they are?
Click to expand...
everything you mentioned is ok right up till you put balljoint into spindle, the spacer keeps from allowing much of threads exposed. mbm made spindles. I twisted head off ball joint trying to expose hole for cotter pin, so brute strength is not answer. I'm leaning toward finding some of those locking flange nuts and trying them and forgetting castle nuts.
 
are you sure you need the spacers? those are for small ball joint into large ball joint spindles. pics?
 
so i see on MBM's site they ask what size wheel bolt pattern you have. what's the part # for your kit?
 
Ok, before we all go around in circles, what year is your car? Give us the year, make and model so we have some idea of what you actually have. Then give us the part number of the ball joints you’re using since it sounds like you’ve bought some recently.

The MBM kits use spindles that go with the large taper ball joints (73+ style ball joints and spindles). The adapters are for cars with small taper ball joints (‘67-72), so you can use the later style spindles without changing your upper control arms. If you have large ball joint UCA’s, you don’t need the spacers at all. But we don’t have any idea what you have.
 
72bluNblu said:
Ok, before we all go around in circles, what year is your car? Give us the year, make and model so we have some idea of what you actually have. Then give us the part number of the ball joints you’re using since it sounds like you’ve bought some recently.

The MBM kits use spindles that go with the large taper ball joints (73+ style ball joints and spindles). The adapters are for cars with small taper ball joints (‘67-72), so you can use the later style spindles without changing your upper control arms. If you have large ball joint UCA’s, you don’t need the spacers at all. But we don’t have any idea what you have.
Click to expand...
72 dart moog k704 small ball joints. After reading mbm instructions, they don't use castle nuts but use top lock flange nuts. They must have realized you couldn't get ball joint in far enough to use castle nuts. Th company I bought kit from supplied everything but flange nuts and said use castle nuts, which won't work.
 
I use self locking flange nuts with red loc-tite on the threads. The original hole in the ball joint stud is covered.
 
DoctorDiff said:
I use self locking flange nuts with red loc-tite on the threads. The original hole in the ball joint stud is covered.
Click to expand...
The company I bought kit from is sending me some modified sleeves he says will work. I also ordered some flange nuts, so I'm hoping one of them works. I was thinking that I would use loc-tite also, good call.
 
Update, the new sleeves actually work and was able to use castle nut and cotter pin.
 
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