Mech fan suggestions…..

Heating / Cooling / AC

  1. Velocity111

    Velocity111 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    I have a 72’ Dart with a big motor, and still having cooling issues on a hot day. One of a couple changes I’m looking at is to upgrade my mech fan, but the challenge is due to the motor I don’t have a lot of room between the rad and the water pump pulley.

    Im currently running an 18” 6-blade flex a lite aluminum silver race fan because it’s so thin, and it works alright. what I’d like to bump up to is a 19” 7-blade fan, but can’t seem to find one, let alone one that is the same thickness as what I currently have.

    any suggestions on mfg or fans to check out, I'm all ears. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
     
  2. Scody21

    Scody21 Just send it

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    Duel electric fans with a BeCool rad is what I’m running. With one fan, running water is almost too much for cruzing in 70* weather. Two of my buddies are running strokers, one is a super hot 408 and the other is a 418. Both are running Cold Case rads with 18” fans. They are not having issues.
     
  3. Magnum Valiant

    Magnum Valiant Well-Known Member

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    Do you have a shroud?
     
  4. Velocity111

    Velocity111 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Scody, sounds like a great set up, wish I had the room to run something like that, but I’m running this thin fan cause lol…I can’t fit anything else in there.

    MV, running a shroud.

    set up I have now with griffin rad and this fan is ok if the day it’s hot, but when it is hot I’m shutting it down due to heat after a short while.

    let me ask, would I be better off running a 6blade 19”, or a 7 blade 18 or 17”?

    is there a company or shop that builds custom fans?
     
  5. 512Stroker

    512Stroker We are all here because we are not all there.

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    Ditch the flex fan and source a Mopar 7 blade 18 inch direct drive fan with a shroud. I know @RAT ROD AL had some fans a while back.
    I ran that fan setup on my BBM stroker with a 2 row Griffin Radiator and had no issues. Oh ya divorce your auto trans from the radiator run a stand alone cooler for the tranny.
     
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    • Velocity111

      Velocity111 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      512 - currently running a aluminum hard blade race fan, no flex fan here. Also fan is hard mount to the pulley, no clutch, saving every 1/8” of space possible. If I could get a 19” 7 blade fan that would be perfect but no one makes one that I can find. I can even find a 7 blade 18” fan, if you know where I can get one please lmk!

      will check out the link you included thanks!
       
    • 512Stroker

      512Stroker We are all here because we are not all there.

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      All I can tell you is what worked for me.
      Even in 90* plus weather the engine never got above 190* normally ran around 180* with a high flow t stat and a Milodon water pump.
       
    • 512Stroker

      512Stroker We are all here because we are not all there.

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      A shroud is a must.
       
    • Dana67Dart

      Dana67Dart The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble FABO Gold Member

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      Define cooling issues.

      Ideling wil cause most engines to raise in temp.
      Does the temp just keep rising or does it level off.
      What temps are you reaching?
      How and where are you measuring the temp?

      BTW...

      there is more to fans than diameter.

      The contributing factors are:
      Diameter
      Number of blades
      Blade pitch
      Blade length
      Blade shape

      Example...You could get more air flow out of a smaller diameter fan that has a steep enough pitch
       
      Last edited: Sep 14, 2021
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      • RustyRatRod

        RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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        Mopar also made the badass five blade non-symmetrical fixed blade fan, too. Hard to find, but those bad boys will move some air.
         
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        • Velocity111

          Velocity111 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          512 - I'm sure it's a great set up, don't get me wrong, I'm just limited in what I can put in due to the lack of space I have. I am looking at every option to include, custom fan, relocating the water pump to create more room, or having a custom cross support made to allow for a larger radiator and fan set up. nothing is off the table at this point.
           
        • Velocity111

          Velocity111 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Dana67. car will hold in the 160-165 area for about the first 15-20 min, then slow and steady rise. Again I'm talking hot day, can push to 200-210 with normal street driving, and if I'm caught at a light I'll reach 220 in the time it takes just sitting there and have to shut it down. Highway driving on a hot day is fine, but city/town driving is a no go, and as a cruise night kind of guy that's a problem. Probably should have mentioned that I'm running an aluminum block 572" hemi, so no room in front for bigger cooling systems and plenty of heat created.

          I agree 100% on your fan comments. I would assume (ex.) that a 6 blade 19" fan will pull less cfm than a 7 blade 18" fan. All the factors you mention have an effect on the draw. Again, my lack of space limits my options - ex. I'm currently running the flex a lite aluminum race fan due to its depth - they're thin, and why I can't/don't run a flex fan or use a clutch - no room. Things are tight enough that I need to actually consider the blade pitch to know whether it'll contact the radiator or not.
           
        • Velocity111

          Velocity111 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Will take a look and see if there are any out there - thanks.
           
        • Scody21

          Scody21 Just send it

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          Post photos of your current setup...
           
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          • Dana67Dart

            Dana67Dart The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble FABO Gold Member

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            I assume your rad is aluminum.
            By any chance do you have a copper / brass in good (CLEAN TUBES) you could swap for testing?

            Seems like some Al rads are pushed to the rear of the car by core thickness and mounting brakets.

            Stock copper/brass can be 3 row with the extra row to the front.

            You could open up the 22 inch rad support to accept a 26 in rad.

            You could add high CFM pusher electric fans

            High flow thrmostat, propper ratio pulleys, high flow water pump.

            In all reality 200 to 210 is not all that hot.

            220 is starting to push things.

            Recently in another post i posted some radiator design info and they were talking that fins per inch was the most inportant aspect to a rad because ALL of the heat transfer from the tubes takes place at the point where the fin is soldered to the tube.

            Good luck
             
          • 512Stroker

            512Stroker We are all here because we are not all there.

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            Dana I agree
            If the OP is running a 22 inch core it will never cool that beast regardless of makeup or manufacture. It may take a custom built radiator/fan setup.
             
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            • 65TerrorCuda

              65TerrorCuda Well-Known Member

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              The stock fan with a solid spacer moves a ton of air. that's what blower mfg's like Dyer's recommend
               
            • RustyRatRod

              RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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              You wanna see what one looks like? I'm going to use it though.
               
            • RustyRatRod

              RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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              I agree 200-210 isn't hot. 100%.

              But here's the issue. There's no room for error. Idling in traffic because of a traffic jam. Moving up less than a car length every minute or so. In the middle of a hot summer day, which would otherwise be a nice day driving down the road.

              There's no room for error. I used to think the same way. 200-210.......even 215-220 wasn't hot.

              After my EXPERIENCE with this hot slant 6 in Vixen and what I did and was successful with combating the heat, I've changed my tune. I believe now, in real world performance engines, keeping them the coolest you can is best.

              Then here comes the argument running too cool adds extra wear, etc. Then tune for it. It's all in the tune. That's what I did. It works. The trick to all this is not letting the engine ever get to "that point" where there's no room for error. Because if you do, there's gonna be an error. There always is.

              I don't want my "normally 200-215" engine stuck idling in traffic. It won't be a happy camper long. A stock engine will run like that all day. A performance engine will continue to generate heat. It's their nature. With advanced timing curves that start the ignition process early and burn it a long time, that heat is in the engine. It'll build up at idle and low speed and has nowhere to go. It WILL overcome the cooling system, if your normal operating temperature is 200 plus. Why?

              There's no room for error.
               
              Last edited: Sep 15, 2021
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              • Dana67Dart

                Dana67Dart The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble FABO Gold Member

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                You and i are in agreement. My point is if in the hotest ambient outside air temp, at idle in gear (automatic) your normally 180deg running temp goes to 200- 210 and stays there, there might not be a problem. If the temp continues to rise you have a problem.
                 
              • RustyRatRod

                RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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                That's just it though, there's much less chance of it "staying there" at 200-210 then there is at 160-180 for example.
                 
              • Kent mosby

                Kent mosby FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                See my post #60 I did this and solved the overheating issues with mine, Overheating -- Corrective measure questions.

                This is a 26 inch radiator in stock location. really only a bit of radiator is blocked. works great.
                 
              • Velocity111

                Velocity111 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                I'm running a Griffin 26" aluminum rad 3 core. I was told (right or wrong) that this was the largest rad they make or that I could fit. The height is good as it sits , but the outter edges sit outside of the cross support opening and don't get any cooling.

                I have a hi flow 165 degree stat, high flow water pump, but frasnkly could take a look at the ratios of my pullies - my power steering pump whines like it's low on fluid (and it's not low) so I think the ratios are set for max hp and less for spinning the pumps (ps and water) at the right rpm.

                I get that 210-215 isn't necessarily "hot", but the motor builder said no more than 220 or I'm seriously risking damage to the aluminum block - true or not I trust him and am taking him at his word - Id rather not see how far I can push it before something fails.
                 
              • Velocity111

                Velocity111 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                Agree 100%. End of the day I'd like to run 160/165, and maybe it'll jump up to 180/185 max. but never past that, I just don't want to have to worry about engine temps even on a hot day, and just drive the car. Others have done it, so can I, just need to come up wit the ight combo.
                 
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                • Velocity111

                  Velocity111 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Kent - thanks for posting the link, will def check it out.
                   
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