I've been reading online as well. Just know my current configuration will not work. Thanks for the response.
What exactly are you trying to do? Getting a distributor dialed in is a pain. Back in the day was the old SUN distributor testers... made things a lot easier to see where things were. I learned how to curve distributors on the HEI's. Weights, springs, swearing, and a few tools lodged into drywall. I keep playing with things until it acts right. It's like a ****** user chasing the dragon. Never catching it. Heh.
Well I'm not to the point of throwing things but have used some proper words to address the situation. Thought I properly prepared for this when I had the distributor set up. Sun machine was used for this but I was ignorant of necessary changes in timing curves used now. Paying for it. May be necessary to send distributor back with some new settings.
I wish you the best with this. Sounds like you're on the right path.... you're doing something. Like anything, if you want different results, try different things.
Can't say anything good about GM other than wishing Mopar distributors were made the same. Went to lemon law court over one of their cars. Good luck with the Firebird and app.
Beware of the full-body large diameter (coil in cap) HEIs for small block Mopars- they don't always fit every application. Firewall clearance as well as some manifolds can be an issue.
I did notice that. It's tight enough as it is. Been nice if they put the distributor on the front like they did on the big blocks.
You should be shot for trying to hide your purchases from your partner.
Well, I kinda look at it this way. I can fix just about anything, so I'm cheap labor. I'm like a living coupon. Plus I've been married to her for 39 years now. If she was going to kill me off in my sleep, she could have done it by now. Heh!You should be shot for trying to hide your purchases from your partner.
Fixed it for ya. LOL
Was wondering about clearance issues. Reading my mind. Put an Davis Unified Ignition in old 75 International Scout II. Placement was very critical. Barely had room to turn distributor. Was warned.
Thanks Bewy for the information. As mentioned, I would be very concerned about clearance issues. Looks as if it does give a person many options. The way I look at it, if correct; I can get 18* of advance out of it. Just a matter of where to put it. Certainly do not want it all in by 1400 rpm. If I understand correctly, should not start until about 1500 rpm. Would this be correct.
Thanks for the reply. Wish Mopar distributors were as easy as GM when it comes to adjusting advance.
It’s not rocket science. Just weld up the slots. GMs have to be easy cause the owners are morons.
Have received no such information specific to my original question. Gave information on how my engine responded in original post. To repeat myself 18*@1400. The 18 is crank degrees. So I have 18* to work with in the existing distributor but it's all in at 1400 rpm. Question: Should this be in the neighborhood of 1500 before mechanical advance starts? Was not answered. I'll take it as a yes. Need to know the curve of a stock 340 because my distributor, I believe, is a modified 273. To the point, If I send it back, can it be modified accordingly or should I begin with a stock 340 distributor. It's not just the springs that determine advance curve but there are weights and center plates to consider as well.So many question already answered.
Just questions, nothing "snappy"
Please explain why a stock 340 curve is relevant or important here?
Are you going to time the car by the book? Might make the OEM curve relevant, except you aren't completely factory/oem.
Are you going to put fuel in the car that was available back when the engine was first produced?
TT5.9 and others, including me, have tried to give you solid advice about how to deal with timing your car, baseline starting points. There are variables that you haven't discovered (none of us can definitively answer) and won't until you test out what you have and how the engine responds.
Good luck with it.
Thanks for the straight forward response. Feel like everyone tippie toes around the answer for the reason they may be incorrect. Want to say, due to lack of response, not very many people have actually done this. Necessary for me to work from a distributor not made for the application. Sure I paid good money to have it altered but it's obviously money wasted. The paperwork associated with 273 distributor says it successfully achieved 30* of crank advance at 4000 rpm. Was not the case.
