Mechanical roller lifters, solid. (Pin oilers?)

Big Block A body Tech

  1. Cope

    Cope Fusing with fire

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    I got my lifters and they got a little note in the box that says they are not suitable for extended periods of idleing.. It says pin oilers required for that...

    Is this true?
    Im guessing They wont see enough oil splash to lube the bearing at idle?

    seems kinda far fetched at the cam has oil just pouring over it..

    Do i need to send these back?

    im using NON oiling push rods if that is a factor?

    .680 lift, W 1.6 roller rockers.

    Thanks again.
     
  2. Dubob

    Dubob Well-Known Member

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    You're correct about saying the roller pins won't see enough oil at low rpm. I searched and read for a long time before I found what I was looking for on a solid roller lifter for a big block. I would contact Mike at MRL. He will help you out. He designed his own and that is one of the many features of his. Plus he's a sight sponsor.
     
  3. moper

    moper FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    any camshaft that does not use EDM lifters or have the bores or bodies modified will primarily receive oil when it's flung up off the rotating assembly. Almost no oil hits them at idle. That's why you have to have some rpms when breaking in a flat tappet. But in terms of the solid race style rollers - it's not they won't see "enough". The solid rollers were developed for race applications where idling is not normally a big part of the program. So if you're putting them in an application that is not what that model was designed for - you need to either accept it and not idle much, plan to inspect or send them back to rebuild every 10K or so, modify the lifters or bores to get more oil to them at low rpm, or get lifters that do that for you. That being said a lot depends on the cam you're using. If it's a street roller, or mild to medium sized, you will not overload the axles very quickly. If you're putting 5-6K a season on it, you've got a while before you need to service the lifters. .680 is not much lift. but it's the duration and rate of lift that determines over-the-nose spring pressures and that's what wears out the lifters. I've got a couple solid rollers with street rollers that have gone 40K with no issues over 8+ years. But I run milder cam profiles that don't need huge spring pressures and I'll add I always bush the lifter bores which corrects the lifter-to-lobe alignment making sure the axle is evenly loaded.
    When in doubt - get the lifters with the pressure fed axles. They will cause a drop in oil pressure, but your builder should have already compensated for larger clearances in regard to the oil delivery system.
     
  4. Cope

    Cope Fusing with fire

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    Thanks for the clear explanation.
    What type of mods would you recommend on the bores to get more oil to the lifters?

    Thanks for all the time and advice.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2016
  5. moper

    moper FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    A small grove can be cut into the bore to put pressurized oil out the bottom onto the camshaft. Comp Cams sells a tool for this as it's an old-school deal. The tool is $160 though. Given the costs of the ones you have vs the "right" ones it might be best to return the lifters and get the direct oiled versions rather than risk someone who hasn't done it before hurt the block.
     
  6. Old Man Mopar

    Old Man Mopar Righteous Dude

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    So, would anyone say that a .650 lift mechanical roller with 1.5 rockers, the best MRL solid roller lifters and Comp Beehive springs would be a pretty safe bet to live in a 440 on the street?
     
  7. Cope

    Cope Fusing with fire

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    MRL lifters, 650.00 Plus shipping.....?? Are you kidding me, at almost seven hundred bucks they could at least throw in shipping...

    I put a call in to MRL last night.
     
  8. Old Man Mopar

    Old Man Mopar Righteous Dude

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    After doing some research and then talking to MRL I don't believe that there is a superior product available. JMHO.
     
  9. moper

    moper FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    OMM - Depends on the lobe. I'd say you're probably fine but lift numbers are poor indicators of "size". What spring pressures (over the nose) does it require?
     
  10. Old Man Mopar

    Old Man Mopar Righteous Dude

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    I understand completely. I would specify a mild grind and lobe design with street use in mind.
    Not looking for max HP but more for that "busy" up on it's tiptoes sound.
    Thinking something with around 280 @ .50 duration and gross lift between .580 and .600.
     
  11. Bigdummy

    Bigdummy Not a Nova FABO Gold Member

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    I researched and talked to a few fellas.One had over 12,000 street miles and no problems!I bought a set :).But then again I'm a Bigdummy :0
     
  12. jms.racing

    jms.racing Member

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    Just so you know usally the more money you spend on lifters the more options go into them , We personally use Moral , Howards, or Iskys , on all of our street style solid rollers we get the lifters with neddle bearings in the rollers also we get them with pin oiling , he also grove the lifter bores , this helps provide extra slosh to the cam and lifter roller plus gives some extra cooling oil to both . When roller motors fail it usally take the hoke motor with it , so any extra money or help in this peticular area is money well spent . IMO .
     
  13. yellow rose

    yellow rose Doctor of Thinkology.

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    It also helps to keep the idle up to 1200-1300 or so. A slow idle kills all valve train parts.
     
  14. jms.racing

    jms.racing Member

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    Sorry about all the bad spelling , I hope yall got the point . Lol
     
  15. hangn0ut

    hangn0ut Well-Known Member

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    If your pushrods stay straight up(stock type rockers,no offset) Isky lifters can be used along with their rev-kit. Keeps the roller on the lobe at all times and takes some strain off the rest of your valve train.
     
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