Money vs Horsepower

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metallidart

metallidart

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Question for you guys.

Generally speaking, with cam specs very, very close to each other, how much more power will a solid roller make over a solid flat tappet? Or would you gain more/less streetability? I know that the whole not having to break the roller in would be nice, but I'm kind of a broke guy with 6 kids and, well, you know. I have a roller cam that I was going to send to Bullet to get reground, but I still need the lifters, valvesprings, and machine work to make the springs fit the heads. Or, I could sell the roller, get a solid cam/lifters (lunati spec'd one very close to what I want) and not have to go overkill on the springs, etc. I could drive it and have fun with the kids this summer.

I guess the real question is, is a roller worth it for mostly "spirited" street driving? I'll have 17" wheels, and I'm building it as an all around car (handling, power, safety, etc, not just straight line).

If you want, I'll post the specs, but then it won't be a general question anymore.
 
IMO, depending on the power level you want, it's almost the case where the flat tappet can make the same power as a roller. You have to remember too - the samemods to fit springs have to be done for a solid cam that needs big springs too. (Lunatis all use dual springs and need the guides and spring seats cut unless you substitue another brand spring). So the only answer to your question, is your opinion after the engine runs. I don;t build a lot of roller cam engines - just because of the cost.. because I can get most "normal" power levels reliably without a roller.
 
According to Hughes, you can damn near match a roller with their solid grinds and using their light lifters. It wouldn't surprise me.
 
A fast rate of lift Hughes flat tappet and 1.6 rockers will come close to a roller, I did it. However I have a bigger roller in my car now but the duration at .050 numbers are very similiar. You just can't get the fast rate of lift with a flat tappet as you can with a roller. Going in a race engine with a big cam, it's a good thing. Going in a street car with a smaller cam, probably won't be noticed and more than 3 times the price tag. So in my opinion if it's going to be a smaller cam say less than about .650 + lift it's not worth it.
 
Nothin like a roller. It brings you into the power curve sooner and keeps you there longer then a flat tappet cam.
 
Both of you have reinforced my idea on my engine. I figured they would require the same machine work on the heads, except it seems like rollers like more installed height and I'm not sure how much I can have cut on my spring pockets (they are eddys, and I'll be running cups/locators also.)

I have heard the same thing from Hughes, I forgot about it until you mentioned it. I don't see why they wouldn't make nearly the same amount of power! I think I may have my mind made up. I guess I'll throw out the specs, so maybe I'll get a yay or nay.

1970 340 stroked to 422, JE pistons/Eagle H-beams/Scat forged crank. Main girdle. Block decked for zero, lifter bores bushed, priority main oiling mods, balanced, etc. The usual. It wasn't built by me, but I have seen/heard it run. Edelbrock closed chamber heads, ported by me, giving me about 11.5-11.7:1. Crane Gold Race rockers, Victor 340 intake, Holley 850 DP, TTI 1 5/8 step headers. 1973 Dart Sport 340, 904 with man valvebody and 3500 stall, and either 3.55 or 3.73 gears.

Roller cam: 278/285 adv, .604/.600 lift, 245/252 at .050, 108 ls
Mech Flat: 288/296 adv, .586/.606 lift, 259/267 at .050, 110 ls

I know there is a big difference in duration, but thats what was spec'd out to me by Bullet and Lunati. Both cams seem to have what I want in RPM range, etc tho.
 
I thought money equaled horspower,....my buddy races a 10 second comaro, says he spent 5000 large for every second gained in ET's,...he started with a clean 15 sec car that he bought for the wife,...just a thought...
 
At .050 is a better way to look/compare them vs adv.
 
jaimus said:
I thought money equaled horspower,....my buddy races a 10 second comaro, says he spent 5000 large for every second gained in ET's,...just a thought...
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Then somebody's rippin his *** OFF.
 
Don't forget maintence and oil costs on both.The solid is a little harder to break in,with needing ZDDP laced oil.The roller has easier break in ,but more inital cost. I am partial to the solid with that combo.
 
Thats the one thing I hate about flat tappets, is the break in. Its been a while since I put an engine together, so I haven't had to use any of the additives or anything, so its got me a little worried. But, I think the solid would end up being just as much fun, and cheaper. I think I'm sold on it. Thanks guys!

Anyone want to buy a brand new Crane solid roller cam or a used set of comp solid rollers? lol.
 
metallidart said:
Thats the one thing I hate about flat tappets, is the break in. Its been a while since I put an engine together, so I haven't had to use any of the additives or anything, so its got me a little worried. But, I think the solid would end up being just as much fun, and cheaper. I think I'm sold on it. Thanks guys!

Anyone want to buy a brand new Crane solid roller cam or a used set of comp solid rollers? lol.
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Maybe, PM me some details and prices.
 
Not trying to Hijack but why would you go solid lifter on a street car ? My hydralic roller makes 2hp and 2ftlbs less than the same motor built for a race customer with a solid lifter setup , the fact that the roller is maintenance free sold me on the cost ,that ZDDP additive gets expensive real fast when you change your oil 4-5 times a year like I do .
 
cannucky said:
Not trying to Hijack but why would you go solid lifter on a street car ? My hydralic roller makes 2hp and 2ftlbs less than the same motor built for a race customer with a solid lifter setup , the fact that the roller is maintenance free sold me on the cost ,that ZDDP additive gets expensive real fast when you change your oil 4-5 times a year like I do .
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less maintanance = More miles, more (everyday) smiles
 
And, with all the kids, etc, its easier for me to spend a few bucks when I get the chance to change the oil than to try to scrape up the hundreds more needed for just a couple more hp.
 
You can Revv the engine cleaner to higher RPM with a Solid grind without worrying about lifter collapse and Valve Float. I go Solid on everything cause I like to Revvv em' up! Whether a Flat Tappet or Roller! You wanna baby your set up go with a Hydraulic.

I have broke in quite a few engines with Solid Flat Tappet Cams & absolutely no failure.
 
I have two street cars with solid roller cams, one is a stock stroke 440 and the other is a 408 SB. So far Iam very happy with them. But my two cents is you need to use very good valve springs and very good rocker arms.
In your case I think I would go with a solid flat tappet.
 
Mad Dart said:
You can Revv the engine cleaner to higher RPM with a Solid grind without worrying about lifter collapse and Valve Float. I go Solid on everything cause I like to Revvv em' up! Whether a Flat Tappet or Roller! You wanna baby your set up go with a Hydraulic.

I have broke in quite a few engines with Solid Flat Tappet Cams & absolutely no failure.
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I don't baby anything I own and my 340 is hyd roller setup. Plus it really depends on what you're doing with the car and if it's a stick or auto. Mines an auto so sticking a solid and revving it to 9000 Rpms is pointless when the auto limits how high you can go. Plus I dont have adjust my valve train all the time.
 
jaimus said:
No way,...Its done right, and he did It himself.
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I'm not trying to argue, but the guy I work for does it MUCH cheaper with all Mopar.......and one Buick. He's been racing almost thirty years. I don't care how "right" it is, if it costs 5K per second, somethin's wrong.
 
oldkimmer said:
.............I have never lost a cam on break in or otherwise............do what u can afford.........kim........
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Exactly! If I want to wait til next year or longer, I would probably stick with the roller and slowly get the parts. But, I want to have some fun. Coupled with some family medical issues, I'd like to get the car on the street asap. I didn't think there would be too much difference in hp between the two types of cams, especially for my application. I appreciate all the input!
 
jaimus said:
I thought money equaled horspower,....my buddy races a 10 second comaro, says he spent 5000 large for every second gained in ET's,...he started with a clean 15 sec car that he bought for the wife,...just a thought...
Click to expand...


if it took me 25 k to see 10s i,d quit.
 
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