Mopar 284/528 mechanical camshaft

-
M

Megabeast

Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2008
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Hello mopar guys, I am seeking performance information on the 284/528 mechanical camshaft. I am changing my combo on a 328 mopar for street/strip action. Combo is inclusive of KB 167 .060 pistions compression 9.5-10.1. Edelbrock airgap intake, Holley 750 carb, magnum fully ported iron heads, 3000 stall converter, and 4.10 gears. I hear that the purpleshaft is an awesome piece both for the street and the strip. I will be driving my vehicle on the street and racing on the week-ends, when time permits. Any feedback will be kindly appreciated.


Megabeast
 
I'm running that cam in my eddy headed 360. Same intake and carb, 2500 conv w/391's. Car idles @850-900 in gear mild lope... but crack the throttle and she goes!!!!!!!!!!! I picked up 15-20 rwhp swapping this cam over the comp xtreme energy 274/491 hydraulic... My car is a street car first, strip second. Best time to date 12.75@106

Bob
 
BobsDart, thanks for the reply I appreciate it. How long have you used Comp Cams? I have only used one of their camshafts in the past and it was a small hydraulic version. Recently, I have considered Comp and Lunati for solid camshafts. It's like everybody uses Comp, are their camshafts that good? You see all sanctions of racing using their products, and Dragracing and Nascar almost exclusively. Mopar Performance lists a low 12 second time with the 284/528 solid. I wanted to be sure their prediction was correct, by finding someone who had actually ran the camshaft in a street/strip or dragrace combo. I like street/strip combos, and I think the Mopar solid will fit the bill for my car.

Megabeast
 
I hear that the purpleshaft is an awesome piece both for the street and the strip.
Click to expand...

Those mopar cames are based on oldddddddddd designs...you might be better off running a comp or Lunati cam, i've had great results running Lunati's.. ...
 
I have that one in my 383 - 11.5 to 1, big valves, 750 on a single plane, big tube fenderwell headers and a 4-speed. It idles at 900RPM with a mild lope and flies when you crack it open. A great choice.
 
Megabeast said:
BobsDart, thanks for the reply I appreciate it. How long have you used Comp Cams? I have only used one of their camshafts in the past and it was a small hydraulic version. Recently, I have considered Comp and Lunati for solid camshafts. It's like everybody uses Comp, are their camshafts that good? You see all sanctions of racing using their products, and Dragracing and Nascar almost exclusively. Mopar Performance lists a low 12 second time with the 284/528 solid. I wanted to be sure their prediction was correct, by finding someone who had actually ran the camshaft in a street/strip or dragrace combo. I like street/strip combos, and I think the Mopar solid will fit the bill for my car.

Megabeast
Click to expand...

The 284/528 cam can use a little more convertor and gear than what you have. If you upgrade to a 3000 stall and 4.10, you can probably shave an additional .25 off your time.
 
340srule said:
Those mopar cames are based on oldddddddddd designs...you might be better off running a comp or Lunati cam, i've had great results running Lunati's.. ...
Click to expand...

I tend to agree....if your running one and dont need to change, then it's fine. But if your putting a new cam in. Why not take advantage of the new profiles? Heck, Hughes has some hydraulics that rock the house these days and probably be more "streetable" yet deliver the same (or more) power as old skool Mopar 284/528 will...

My 292/.508 Purpleshaft does the job...but when I'm ready to change cams, it's going to be a newer design.

Side note: Anyone see the new Comp Thumpr hydraulic series? They are supposed to be designed to take advantage of the Mopar lifter dia. too...
 
The Thumprs are hyd rollers made to sound racey with out being to much for the street.
 
In reference to the new Comp Thumpr Cams, use the Camquest download provided by Comp to find out horsepower and torque output for your combos. You will be amazed that the Extreme Energy and Magnum profiles make more power!! The question one must ask is, do I want ultimate power or the lumpy sound. Speaking for myself, I want killer power even if the sound of a radical profile is not apparent. I have raced guys whose cars have sounded pretty intimidating and have put the smack down on them. So, that is why I am interested in finding out more about the Mopar 284/528. A lot of you say it idles like a stocker, and it's outdated but runs like a bat out hell when the pedal is dropped. I am open to any solid profile suggestions tested by you guys from the major cam companies. My ultimate goal is to have the best street/strip combo that I can possibly develop without nitrous or supercharging.

Megabeast
 
Mega,
When I first the motor I had the MP 280/480 hydraulic. Car ran great. Then Comp came out their Xtreme energy cams. Put the 274 in car ran about the same, but was having lifter problems!!! Changed them out, but problems continued. First set collapsed lifter, 2nd noisy!!!! If they are going to be noisy let's go solid!!! As far as old school, so be it, they work hydraulic or solid. Remember built by Mopar for Mopar.

Bob
 
Beatnik,
As far a Hughes cams, they are made by another company, I think Elgin??
My buddy put one in his wifes car,rebuilt 340, lasted 350miles!!!!!! It pushed forward ground into the retaining place,all the metal shavings wiped out the bottom end!!!! No reason given for failure from Hughes. He went with a custom Racer Brown solid on the NEW rebuild!!!

Bob
 
Bob im with you, no matter how old the profile. If it works, then it works, no if ands or buts about it. Mopar knew what they were doing way back when, and that is why the purpleshaft is still popular. If it was not, Mopar would have done away with all the old profiles and developed new ones from scratch like the big cam companies are doing. Thanks again Bob for your input on the Mopar 284/528.

Megabeast
 
Thrashard340 said:
The 284/528 cam can use a little more convertor and gear than what you have. If you upgrade to a 3000 stall and 4.10, you can probably shave an additional .25 off your time.
Click to expand...

A convertor update is on the list. Right now the gears are staying... The last time at the track my timeslips were off a bit. The 1/8 mile et was better, but 1/4 mile was off. Getting some extra slippage at the top end...

bob
 
Megabeast said:
In reference to the new Comp Thumpr Cams, use the Camquest download provided by Comp to find out horsepower and torque output for your combos. You will be amazed that the Extreme Energy and Magnum profiles make more power!! The question one must ask is, do I want ultimate power or the lumpy sound. Speaking for myself, I want killer power even if the sound of a radical profile is not apparent. I have raced guys whose cars have sounded pretty intimidating and have put the smack down on them. So, that is why I am interested in finding out more about the Mopar 284/528. A lot of you say it idles like a stocker, and it's outdated but runs like a bat out hell when the pedal is dropped. I am open to any solid profile suggestions tested by you guys from the major cam companies. My ultimate goal is to have the best street/strip combo that I can possibly develop without nitrous or supercharging.

Megabeast
Click to expand...

Oh yes. It is better to be fast than it is to sound fast.
 
Megabeast said:
Bob im with you, no matter how old the profile. If it works, then it works, no if ands or buts about it. Mopar knew what they were doing way back when, and that is why the purpleshaft is still popular. If it was not, Mopar would have done away with all the old profiles and developed new ones from scratch like the big cam companies are doing. Thanks again Bob for your input on the Mopar 284/528.

Megabeast
Click to expand...

Me too. I am not sure that anyone can do it better than the people who designed the engine in the first place. (The guy who runs Racer Brown is an old friend of mine and he would hate to hear me say that). My 383 was actually built back in the early 70's while still in the hands of the original owner. The guy who built it for him chose that cam and it still runs amazing today. It helps that it was track-only until I bought it and has very few miles on it. When the day comes that I need to pull it I will replace it with the exact same thing. Why mess with a good thing?
 
Yes the Mopar cams may be old technology but it was WAAAYYY ahead of it's time when introduced. They have a very fast ramp rate compared to alot of cams yet today. In fact their still slightly more aggressive than most of Comps. It's only in the last few yrs. that Comp and Lunati have started taking advantage of the larger lifter dia.

Just to note I also had alot of problems with Comps lifters doing exactly what Bob's did. First set lasted 150 miles and started clattering. Sent them to Comp and they warrantied them and I put in the 2nd set. They lasted about 800 miles then 4 collapsed and wouldn't pump up. We also had problems on a buddies 454 pickup with a Comp xe268. He's getting ready to yank it and junk it and get a Lunati. I swapped mine out for Lunati Hyd. and it runs allot stronger than the Comp. and I've had no more lifter trouble. I myself like the Lunati profiles a little better than the Mopar grinds but their not real far apart. I just recently talked to Jim @ Racer Brown and his suggestions sounded very reasonable. Real nice fellow too. And prices are good. I'm hopefully building a stroker this fall and going to give him a try.
 
fishy68 said:
Yes the Mopar cams may be old technology but it was WAAAYYY ahead of it's time when introduced. They have a very fast ramp rate compared to alot of cams yet today. In fact their still slightly more aggressive than most of Comps. It's only in the last few yrs. that Comp and Lunati have started taking advantage of the larger lifter dia.

Just to note I also had alot of problems with Comps lifters doing exactly what Bob's did. First set lasted 150 miles and started clattering. Sent them to Comp and they warrantied them and I put in the 2nd set. They lasted about 800 miles then 4 collapsed and wouldn't pump up. We also had problems on a buddies 454 pickup with a Comp xe268. He's getting ready to yank it and junk it and get a Lunati. I swapped mine out for Lunati Hyd. and it runs allot stronger than the Comp. and I've had no more lifter trouble. I myself like the Lunati profiles a little better than the Mopar grinds but their not real far apart. I just recently talked to Jim @ Racer Brown and his suggestions sounded very reasonable. Real nice fellow too. And prices are good. I'm hopefully building a stroker this fall and going to give him a try.
Click to expand...

Jim is a great guy and knows his stuff as well as anyone. He was one of the top MOPAR guys here in Maryland back when I was a dumb kid and I am 46 now. I have known him for over 25 years and I guarantee that you can trust what he says and what he builds.
 
Looks like you want a cam to work with your stall, gear, cid, compression, and weight. What do your heads flow? Do you have a goal in mind, or do you want the most power with your current parts? I'd give your specifications to the cam manufacturers and see what they say. I wonder how close they all come to each other with their cam recommendations, and if they would be close to the .528" solid. I'm far from knowledgeable about this, but I would think that your heads determine your max power, and your CID determines what RPM that power would come in at. That power along with your vehicle weight would give you an approximate MPH in the quarter, and that would determine your gear ratio so you're at max power through the traps.
 
comp cams i believe is who makes mopar performance cams,,,

also the 528 solid cam from mopar is a great cam in a 360, if you have a pump gas 340 it will fall on its face with that cam,, trust me ive been there,,340 run great street and strip with the 484 /284,, i have no experience with the 509 cam,,,but the 528 loves the longer stroke engines,,,

528 cam in a 360 that motor will think its a big block 440..best cam for the money in my opinion,,
 
The 318 Engine Build - A Parts Book 400HP 318 used this cam: "We selected a Competition Cams 280H Magnum camshaft, which is a single-pattern grind featuring 280 degrees of rated duration and 230 degrees of duration at .050-inch tappet rise. This cam is advertised as having .480-inch lift, but with the higher-ratio Magnum valvetrain, theoretical lift goes up to .512-inch." Not that far off from that solid Purpleshaft.
 
I have run the 528 cam. In my 318 I ran mid 13's with it then went to a 488/510 hyd and went from a M1 single plane to edle air gap and ran high 12's. I did not like that cam. I am running a 3500 stall and a 4.10 gear.
 
76318dart said:
I have run the 528 cam. In my 318 I ran mid 13's with it then went to a 488/510 hyd and went from a M1 single plane to edle air gap and ran high 12's. I did not like that cam. I am running a 3500 stall and a 4.10 gear.
Click to expand...

I could see that happening as the 318 is such small displacement it's not a torque monster to begin with. Then you add a single plane intake and a really big cam it's even worse on low end torque. Heads and compression ratio being another consideration. If you had small valve 318 heads that didn't flow good those parts wouldn't work well at all. You probably needed at least a 4000 stall to make that combo work right even with good flowing heads and decent compression.
 
If you think the 284/528 is old school get this, I had the early version of that cam in my 340 when I first got it. It's the same basic cam but it had about
.540 lift. Still was a good cam. In a subsequent rebuild I went with the MP
.557 lift cam but didn't really see any appreciable gains. Now the .590 cam is another story and it performs well too but my Hughes (Engle) 278/.630 -
288/.630 cam was 2 tenths faster, both using 1.6 rockers.
 
I have 360 heads 1.88/1.60, ported and milled .035. My compression is around 10.50. But I can see it with a 318 not liking that cam, Its all trial and error.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top