Yeah that^^^^^. None of those are high enough, IMO. But use what you like.
Agree- but my main reason to post that was to confirm that yes, the Chrome boxes do require a ballast resistor. The value of which ("valve" -sic- in the chart) seems to vary quite a bit even for the same RPM usage. The "preferred" (*) value is also the highest- the .80 ohms built into the Accel 150001 coil. Makes me think you're right that a higher rated resistor would be better, esp. on the street- since initially Mopar didn't even recommend using the Chrome box on a street engine. Popular theory at the time was that they burned up at lower RPM usage, so the higher ohm rating should help them survive.Yeah that^^^^^. None of those are high enough, IMO. But use what you like.
But who decides "require"? Mopar Performance? What I mean is, "I" will always run one with a Mopar style ECU......but I've seen a lot of guys just leave um out. For years. And not one failure. Then I've run the .5 and burned a few boxes up years ago and made a Hi Rev 7500 box stop firing until it cooled back off. So what the heck? LOL That's why I err on the side of caution and use a higher resistance rating.Agree- but my main reason to post that was to confirm that yes, the Chrome boxes do require a ballast resistor. The value of which ("valve" -sic- in the chart) seems to vary quite a bit even for the same RPM usage. The "preferred" (*) value is also the highest- the .80 ohms built into the Accel 150001 coil. Makes me think you're right that a higher rated resistor would be better, esp. on the street- since initially Mopar didn't even recommend using the Chrome box on a street engine. Popular theory at the time was that they burned up at lower RPM usage, so the higher ohm rating should help them survive.
OR run an ignition that doesn't require a resistor.Or run a ballast, rig a "WOT" (WFO) switch on the throttle to BYPASS the ballast at full throttle
(WFO: Wide Frickin' Open)
I was thinking about that not long ago when I was trying to get my 64 Poly to start with a key. The PO had converted it to Mopar Electronic and aparently had troubles. The only you could get it lit was to jump the coil off the battery.OR run an ignition that doesn't require a resistor.
I got ahold of Hoppy and got the right parts.
hoppy's a good dude. I don't care what they say about him. LOLI was thinking about that not long ago when I was trying to get my 64 Poly to start with a key. The PO had converted it to Mopar Electronic and aparently had troubles. The only you could get it lit was to jump the coil off the battery.![]()
I got ahold of Hoppy and got the right parts.
Because there are some really CRAPPY parts being sold. I HOPE this new Blueprint slant 6 ignition is going to be as good as I think it is. I'll find out hopefully this week how it runs, at least.Boy there have been a lot of ignition related issues around here lately.
If it's a 4 wire 2 pin is fine as long as it's the correct ohmsIt's only a 4 pin ECU. So would I not be able to use a 2 wire ballast
Sure it can a bit overkill but do not use a 1/4 ohm resistor. I know of chrome boxes running for years on the street with a higher ballast resistor. Todays new boxes suck so use a older one of you can.The more I look at the information provided here that this is not a street application item and I should stick with my orange box which works fine.
Thank all of you for your replies, I am just trying to learn if what I have can be used for a street application.