My 82 Dodge PU was idling in the garage. I heard a small pop/poof and engine died. Looked under the hood, no smoke, no smell, nothing. Go to start it and it starts right up, but as soon as release the key it dies. Right away I'm thinking Ballast Resistor ( 2-pin) I replace it with new. Same problem. Grab my 12v light tester. No power at the coil, no power at the Ballast resistor. Go purchase a new ignition switch ( that's gotta be it!) New Switch, same problem. Take the bulk head apart at the firewall. Look for bad or corroded pins, loose wires, melted wires, etc everything is clean. Get a wiring diagram at this point. Start running wires. So at the solenoid on the fenderwell, red Battery wire feeds the pink wire to the Ballast resistor. Red wire at opposite ends feeds the coil, alternator, carb wire, voltage regulator. I am getting 12v off the red wire only on the solenoid until I turn the key to the start position, at which time it goes to the orange wire that feeds back to the switch. So now I'm thinking it's gotta be the solenoid. New solenoid, no dice, same problem. Looked at all the fusible links and they appear good. Now I can run a wire from my battery to the pink wire coming off the solenoid and everything at that point has 12v. But I shouldn't have to do this. Answers I received pertaining to this: 1--Is this lean burn? Yes I think it is?? 2--Do you have an online line to a good wiring diagram? Yes I do. Now on the older cars, when the key is in start, the "run" voltage goes "dead" so if something goes wrong between those two, you won't get start voltage at the coil So double check your light "on the battery" and then see what you get at coil + both in "start" and in "run." I have power (light) in the start position but none in the run position. If you for certain don't have voltage in on/ the other/ both, than that's sure a clue. Some of the newer stuff had a fuse --in at least a portion of-- the switched ignition. "For test" to see if the ballast/ ECU / etc is OK, you can jumper a clip lead right from the battery (start relay) to coil + and it should start and run. Do NOT leave that hooked up longer than to test. Yes this is so!