Mopar ( Tube Kit ) info requested !

-
rumblefish360 said:
It was a (IIRC) approximately a 1/2 reamer (drill bit) 12 inches long.
The tubes outside diameter was was just under to be able to slide in. You cut the tube length to one half of the blocks inner galley. Drill/ream from front and back side of the block, fit the tube half way and make sure they meet in the middle.

The peen tool was a solid .904 diameter bullet shaped slug of steel to be driven past the tube.

The tool to drill the hole in the peened tube looks like anlifter with a slice taken out of it and a hole for the drill bit to guide it to the tube and hold it steady so you can drill the hole in the tube.

All parts are pretty much made of unobtainum these days. Except the tube and drill bit which can be obtained at any decently stocked hardware store.
YL gave good instructions on that.

An old lifter ground down can be the peen tool. Drilling into the peened tube can be a trick. But shouldn’t be overly difficult.
Click to expand...

I`ve never seen this done , or done it. Wondering why a guy couldn`t stabilize the tube and drill it ''before'' the peening process . ???? The hole would still be there, but in a diff. location on the sleeve
 
SSG_Karg said:
Drilling the galley was a slow and nerve racking experience for me. Peening the tube down right made my butthole pucker. But it turned out just fine. My crossover tube is just to supply a small amount of oil to the lifters because I shut off the oil from leaving #1 main with set screw. I don’t trust “splash” oiling the lifters in a street engine.

View attachment 1715234382

View attachment 1715234383
Click to expand...
Did you drill holes in the copper tubing to get oil to the lifters?
 
famous bob said:
I got a buddie that dumps the clutch at 8200 to 9400 , depending on the track conditions.
It was even scary to watch his playback tach , even when the engine wasn`t running, I started backing up the first time I SAW IT .---lol
Click to expand...
Thats some Serious ear ****.
 
famous bob said:
I`ve never seen this done , or done it. Wondering why a guy couldn`t stabilize the tube and drill it ''before'' the peening process . ???? The hole would still be there, but in a diff. location on the sleeve
Click to expand...
I was told the tube tends to want to rotate during the peening step.
Duane said:
Did you drill holes in the copper tubing to get oil to the lifters?
Click to expand...
Yes.
 
SSG_Karg said:
Drilling the galley was a slow and nerve racking experience for me. Peening the tube down right made my butthole pucker. But it turned out just fine. My crossover tube is just to supply a small amount of oil to the lifters because I shut off the oil from leaving #1 main with set screw. I don’t trust “splash” oiling the lifters in a street engine.

View attachment 1715234382

View attachment 1715234383
Click to expand...
Is this block tubed on both sides?
 
replicaracer43 said:
Optional, would be unnecessary on a solid flat tappet
Click to expand...
I am trying to get the logic of tubing only one side if running a jumper line to the other. He said he wants oil to the lifters. So why tube one side,drill small holes in the tube and then leave the drivers side wide open. Unless you were tubing both sides.
 
famous bob said:
I`ve never seen this done , or done it. Wondering why a guy couldn`t stabilize the tube and drill it ''before'' the peening process . ???? The hole would still be there, but in a diff. location on the sleeve
Click to expand...
The first bore that you peen does rotate slightly. Their is also sort of a smearing that goes on as well. I do not think you could do a very good job trying to add the holes before peening the tube.
After one bore is peened the tube will not move.
 
Got 4 engines using solid flat tappet lifters, camshafts are Hughes, lift is around .650 with 1.6 rocker ratio...maximum rpm is 7K.
And another with a Lunati cam with .560 lift....but limited to 6500 rpm...
None of the engines have any modifications to the oiling system and all use hv oil pumps.
 
I ran a stock block/headed 340 for 3yrs with a .590" SFT cam which is 270@.050 I believe with no modifications to anything, HV oil pump, no issues, but it was limited to around 6200rpm.
 
nm9stheham said:
Next question: What is the hardness of the copper tube? Like water piping, which is rigid copper? Or soft copper so it can be peened easily?
Click to expand...


I'm just using water pipe out of the MSC catalog. It's a bit tougher, but don't forget that lifter will still rub against that tube.

I bought an X block (for damn cheap) that was tubed with aluminum. Several bores had been worn through. So I just ran the reamer down there and got rid of the aluminum and used brass.

That block is still floating around out there.
 
yellow rose said:
I'm just using water pipe out of the MSC catalog. It's a bit tougher, but don't forget that lifter will still rub against that tube.

I bought an X block (for damn cheap) that was tubed with aluminum. Several bores had been worn through. So I just ran the reamer down there and got rid of the aluminum and used brass.

That block is still floating around out there.
Click to expand...
Tnx. So just regular copper water piping, like you would sweat together with solder, right? Kinda makes sense..... it would probably be impossible to 'drive' soft copper tubing without it just mooshing.
 
Everyone thinking about this needs to be aware that:
  • The galleries are 'step drilled' from front and back, meaning that that they reduce in size slightly, in steps, as you go further in. So the drilling will get slower and slower as you go deeper.
  • Drilling cast takes patience and no heavy hand on the drill pressure, slow drill speeds (I've done OK with 400-500 RPM), and, in my limited experience, benefits from pulling back a bit frequently to allow the chips to clear or unpack.
 
nm9stheham said:
Tnx. So just regular copper water piping, like you would sweat together with solder, right? Kinda makes sense..... it would probably be impossible to 'drive' soft copper tubing without it just mooshing.
Click to expand...
Yes.
 
SSG_Karg said:
Negative.
Click to expand...
What was the point of tubing the block on one side if you wanted oil to the lifters. Makes no sense. If you wanted to restrict the flow to the lifters, that would make sense, but with a crossover tube you would need to tube both sides.
Please follow xplain.
 
Duane said:
What was the point of tubing the block on one side if you wanted oil to the lifters. Makes no sense. If you wanted to restrict the flow to the lifters, that would make sense, but with a crossover tube you would need to tube both sides.
Please follow xplain.
Click to expand...

My “theory” for tubing the main galley but not the other has two reasons. This engine will either get SFT or solid rollers, so maximum flow to the lifters is not necessary- just want a bit to lube the bores. As I mentioned I don’t trust splash oiling alone on a street engine that will see a lot of idling / low rpms. I blocked the oil from leaving the #1 main to the driver side galley so to introduce a little oil to those lifter bores, I ran the crossover.
Second reason for not tubing the driver side galley is that I would just have to drill holes in it to lubricate those lifters. I’m hoping the small diameter line acts as a restricter and won’t flood the driver side oil and cause the usual gushing leaks around each lifter.
So basically I tried to restrict the amount of oil leaking rather than completely plug it off. If I find that the crossover is passing too much oil I will try a smaller line, or possibly a set screws with hole in it, or just remove it and plug the hole. Saves me from the hassle of tubing the other galley. Like I said, it made me nervous doing the first one. I had nightmares of the rearmost lifter bore splitting like a melon as I drove the peener down through.
Clear as mud, right?
 
SSG_Karg said:
My “theory” for tubing the main galley but not the other has two reasons. This engine will either get SFT or solid rollers, so maximum flow to the lifters is not necessary- just want a bit to lube the bores. As I mentioned I don’t trust splash oiling alone on a street engine that will see a lot of idling / low rpms. I blocked the oil from leaving the #1 main to the driver side galley so to introduce a little oil to those lifter bores, I ran the crossover.
Second reason for not tubing the driver side galley is that I would just have to drill holes in it to lubricate those lifters. I’m hoping the small diameter line acts as a restricter and won’t flood the driver side oil and cause the usual gushing leaks around each lifter.
So basically I tried to restrict the amount of oil leaking rather than completely plug it off. If I find that the crossover is passing too much oil I will try a smaller line, or possibly a set screws with hole in it, or just remove it and plug the hole. Saves me from the hassle of tubing the other galley. Like I said, it made me nervous doing the first one. I had nightmares of the rearmost lifter bore splitting like a melon as I drove the peener down through.
Clear as mud, right?
Click to expand...
 
I get it but I bet that line is passing more oil than you think.
Apparently an .050 diameter constant feed hole from the main galley is enough to feed 16 rocker arms leaks and all.
Right from the stroker small block book.
 
Duane said:
I get it but I bet that line is passing more oil than you think.
Apparently an .050 diameter constant feed hole from the main galley is enough to feed 16 rocker arms leaks and all.
Right from the stroker small block book.
Click to expand...
That’s a damn good book but I don’t consider it gospel. There’s always something to test, try, or fiddle with. Keeps it interesting. :popcorn:
 
SSG_Karg said:
That’s a damn good book but I don’t consider it gospel. There’s always something to test, try, or fiddle with. Keeps it interesting. :popcorn:
Click to expand...
Agreed about the book, not gospel, just wanted to make the point that a 3/16 brake can still flow a lot of oil and it's leaking out past your drivers side lifters. I have seen guys do what you are doing, they just usually tube both sides of the block and drill small holes in the tube. But I get your point.
 
I plan to prime the oil system before installing the intake while turning the engine over with a breaker bar. I’ll be able to see just how much that crossover is supplying to the galley. I can “tune” it from there with smaller brake line or maybe some type of restrictor plug, like a carb jet possibly. I just don’t like the thought of running the lifters dry.
This is all way overkill for the intended use of the engine but I’m an overkill kind of guy.
 
Besides, I don’t mind if it leaks out past the lifters a little because it is not robbing it from the crankshaft.
 
SSG_Karg said:
I plan to prime the oil system before installing the intake while turning the engine over with a breaker bar. I’ll be able to see just how much that crossover is supplying to the galley. I can “tune” it from there with smaller brake line or maybe some type of restrictor plug, like a carb jet possibly. I just don’t like the thought of running the lifters dry.
This is all way overkill for the intended use of the engine but I’m an overkill kind of guy.
Click to expand...
Here is a pic for you of how I am oiling mine.

image.jpeg


image.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top