Mopar ( Tube Kit ) info requested !

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SSG_Karg said:
Thanks. Is that one line going from head feed to head feed?
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Yes. The passenger side has a .080 feed hole from the main galley
Straight into the passenger feed passage and the brake line runs it to the driver side from the same place. The recommendation was .050 but I went .080 because I was worried about clogging.
 
SSG_Karg said:
Like I said, it made me nervous doing the first one. I had nightmares of the rearmost lifter bore splitting like a melon as I drove the peener down through.
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That thought had crossed my mind...! I guess the good thing is that the force on the iron spreads around a large area and the opposite force on the tube is very concentrated.... so the softer copper will always give.
 
nm9stheham said:
That thought had crossed my mind...! I guess the good thing is that the force on the iron spreads around a large area and the opposite force on the tube is very concentrated.... so the softer copper will always give.
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True, but I almost got sick while hammering that lifter down into the bore. If that thing woulda let go-POOF! $1000 up in smoke! Think I’ll have my brother do the next one just so I don’t have to watch!
 
SSG_Karg said:
Nice! Pretty jealous. I’m running bushed ductile iron rockers on my W2s. Should be pretty much bulletproof.
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Those bushed ductile iron are very reliable. I had the econo unbushed on for a long time on the old motor. Not roller tipped but they work.
I walked right into a deal locally here a few years ago on the Norris that I could not pass up.
 
I ran Norris roller stainless on my last W2 motor at the behest of Herb Mcandless.. Sweet rockers !
 
replicaracer43 said:
It can and was used in solid flat tappet applications, the main purpose was to stop the 16 "leaks" around the body of the lifter, supplying more oil to the bottom and, and also reducing windage loss. The better way, if it's in the budget, is to have the lifter bores "trued" and bushed individually, that way they are perfectly straight, and clearance can be perfected. The lifter then receive there oil via splash from the rotating assy, and drain back in the lifter valley.
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Thanks for the info I can alot money to have bores bushed like u advised .
Question after this is done would I still run Mopar diameter lifters or use custom lifters ??
Thanks Chris .
 
replicaracer43 said:
They would still be mopar diameter
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Ok thank you
I had a 401 Amc block years ago and Herman Lewis bushed it to run chevy small block roller lifters so just wasnt sure again thank you im going to see machinist later this week so I may just go that if its just as beneficial as the tube kit !!!
 
1Badcolt said:
Ok thank you
I had a 401 Amc block years ago and Herman Lewis bushed it to run chevy small block roller lifters so just wasnt sure again thank you im going to see machinist later this week so I may just go that if its just as beneficial as the tube kit !!!
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It's actually a BETTER option than the tube, because final bore size can be optimized
 
replicaracer43 said:
It's actually a BETTER option than the tube, because final bore size can be optimized
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I just received a message from my local machinist and he doesn't do this procedure so I need to find somone else do you know anyone in GA who can perform this task or up your way in NC.
 
I'm not sure, I've never had lifter bores bushed, I know some of the bigger mopar specific shops do it, Hughes engines, Ray Barton, but shipping would be prohibitive.
 
replicaracer43 said:
I'm not sure, I've never had lifter bores bushed, I know some of the bigger mopar specific shops do it, Hughes engines, Ray Barton, but shipping would be prohibitive.
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Ten 4
I believe a shop exists in Knoxville thats Mopar specific I will check thanks .
 
yellow rose said:
Yes, do it. There is no reason NOT to do it.

The reamer is available from any tool house. You can buy the tubing from the same place. I use MSC, but I've been buying tooling from them since probably the early 1990's but any good tool supply company will have the reamer.

Let me give you a tip.

It is not required (and is probably a really BAD idea) to press the tube in. What I'm saying is...buy the tubing FIRST and measure the O.D. and then order the reamer so that you have .0010-.0000 press fit.

I always lightly polish the O.D. of the tube before I install it and it can actually even technically fall in if you want it to and it won't matter. It can't be like socks on a rooster, but you don't need to beat your guts out to get it in. Once you peen the tube it can never come out so it can slip in, and I slip fit all mine.

You also don't need to angle cut the tube. Just cut them square and forget it. Make sure they go past the last lifter bore from each and and that's fine.

I made my own peen tool, but you can use an old lifter and round off the edges. It ain't rocket surgery. Don't forget to redrill the feed galley passages from the lifter bank to the mains. Drill them all to 9/32 and I know guys who love to go .312, but the hole that feeds those passages is still the same size, so making the feeds much bigger than .287ish (9/32) is not really needed.

Once you get that done, you hone the lifter bores LIGHTLY and VERIFY that the lifter will fall on its own down that bore. Even after peening the tube will make the bore tight, and if you don't fix it, you WILL fail a cam. I take a paper roll and lightly polish the tube where it breaks through the lifter bore after peening. Then a light light hone, verify the lifter will fall down the bore and you are golden.

Do it. There is no reason.
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Squeezing a little more life out of this thread......Only exception or reason not to would be (for that guy who just has to have them) is an LA block with Magnum style heads with pushrod oiling. Is that a “no ****, genius” statement or what? :rolleyes:
 
12many said:
Squeezing a little more life out of this thread......Only exception or reason not to would be (for that guy who just has to have them) is an LA block with Magnum style heads with pushrod oiling. Is that a “no ****, genius” statement or what? :rolleyes:
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You can still tube it, you just need to drill a .040-.060 hole in the tube where it breaks through the lifter bore.


That’s plenty to feed the rockers. And, you eliminate huge leaks.
 
1Badcolt, R&R Speed and Machine in Huntsville, AL does lifter bushings. A little expensive and usually backlogged but do excellent work!!
 
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