Motor mounts (biscuit type)

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fishy68

fishy68

Tyr Fryr's Inc.
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Quite a while back someone posted info about some motor mounts (early biscuit type) that had a bolt through them or some sort of lock so they don't break.

I've tried Schumacher's poly mounts and my 408 tore them up in 5k miles so for now I have solid mounts on it. It doesn't vibrate bad but I can feel the pulses from the solid's.

Does anyone know what mounts I'm talking about that are rubber with a bolt through them? I've searched and can't find info on them now
 
magnumforce makes 'em. <<correction>> USED to make them? I cant find them now.
 
I use a solid mount on my cars, driver side only.

So when sold as a 'pair' at places like Summit they do two cars.

The original passenger side still compresses under load this way, so no noticeable feel in vibrations.
 
Recently I had my 8 3/4 rebuilt in my 71 Demon 340, was only laying one black line. Just after I got it back on the road I thought I'll try it out. It was nothing major just took it to 3,000 rpm & dropped the clutch. Well it seemed like all hell broke loose. The drivers engine mount decided to let go & the fan destroyed the shroud. Cost me $400 Australian to get one from the states as no one here stocks them. When we replaced the mount with another factory style one I looked at the broken one & it said made in India, go figure.
Since then I've been too scared to do another burnout in case it happens again.
Was looking at the above thread ref the Poly-Loc Mount Set. Does anyone who have these recommend them as I want the problem fixed.
Cheers,
P.S. I can't believe how small the factory ones are.
 
hux340 said:
Recently I had my 8 3/4 rebuilt in my 71 Demon 340, was only laying one black line. Just after I got it back on the road I thought I'll try it out. It was nothing major just took it to 3,000 rpm & dropped the clutch. Well it seemed like all hell broke loose. The drivers engine mount decided to let go & the fan destroyed the shroud. Cost me $400 Australian to get one from the states as no one here stocks them. When we replaced the mount with another factory style one I looked at the broken one & it said made in India, go figure.
Since then I've been too scared to do another burnout in case it happens again.
Was looking at the above thread ref the Poly-Loc Mount Set. Does anyone who have these recommend them as I want the problem fixed.
Cheers,
P.S. I can't believe how small the factory ones are.
Click to expand...
Have you considered a torque limiter?
Torque Straps
 
Have you considered a torque limiter?

Yeah but would rather the original look.

These quote below seems like what I'm after.

"I'm in the process of removing both the Schumacher Polymounts and poly transmount I just put in my '68 during my Magnum upgrade. The vibration was just too much at idle and everyday driving. As stated, they were better once rolling, but even then, the added vibration was an issue. There are many post on the internet advising against using stock mounts alone. They just aren't as good as they used to be, and they were regularly breaking under performance use.

My current small block motor puts out about 480 hp, so I knew it would likely break a stock style rubber mount. I didn't want to mess with chaining it or adding torque straps, so I ordered up a set of Mitymounts. http://www.mitymounts.com/chrysler.htm

I have them in my shaker hooded '70 E-Body. That motor puts out 710 hp and nearly that much torque with a 5 speed. They perform flawlessly. There is enough give in these mounts to allow my shaker to do its thing, but they solidly lock under power to keep the engine from destroying my hood set-up.

They are as easy to install as a stock mount and I highly recommend them. I am using a rubber and steel transmission mount from Trans Dapt Performance. It is stronger than a stock mount, but still gives the benefit of not passing vibrations through to the chassis.

Here's the link to how they work. "http://www.mitymounts.com/howtheywork.htm"
 
Alaskan_TA said:
I use a solid mount on my cars, driver side only.

So when sold as a 'pair' at places like Summit they do two cars.

The original passenger side still compresses under load this way, so no noticeable feel in vibrations.
Click to expand...
Hummm... I have a stock biscuit. I guess I could give it a try running one on the pass side and see how it does
 
hux340 said:
Have you considered a torque limiter?

Yeah but would rather the original look.

These quote below seems like what I'm after.

"I'm in the process of removing both the Schumacher Polymounts and poly transmount I just put in my '68 during my Magnum upgrade. The vibration was just too much at idle and everyday driving. As stated, they were better once rolling, but even then, the added vibration was an issue. There are many post on the internet advising against using stock mounts alone. They just aren't as good as they used to be, and they were regularly breaking under performance use.

My current small block motor puts out about 480 hp, so I knew it would likely break a stock style rubber mount. I didn't want to mess with chaining it or adding torque straps, so I ordered up a set of Mitymounts. http://www.mitymounts.com/chrysler.htm

I have them in my shaker hooded '70 E-Body. That motor puts out 710 hp and nearly that much torque with a 5 speed. They perform flawlessly. There is enough give in these mounts to allow my shaker to do its thing, but they solidly lock under power to keep the engine from destroying my hood set-up.

They are as easy to install as a stock mount and I highly recommend them. I am using a rubber and steel transmission mount from Trans Dapt Performance. It is stronger than a stock mount, but still gives the benefit of not passing vibrations through to the chassis.

Here's the link to how they work. "http://www.mitymounts.com/howtheywork.htm"
Click to expand...
Those look like the ones I was thinking of. Thanks for posting the link
 
fishy68 said:
Those look like the ones I was thinking of. Thanks for posting the link
Click to expand...

If these work better than the Poly-Locs, I'd rather pay $134 vs $199. Btw: If you try the solid on the left side and a rubber biscuit on the right, let us know how it feels.
 
The Schumaker bushed torque strap works great and you will never see it in an A Body with headers and power steering .
 
hux340 said:
Here's the link to how they work. "http://www.mitymounts.com/howtheywork.htm"
Click to expand...

These are just rubber mounts with two counter sunk screws in them. All elastomeric mounts will have a safety catch but that doesn't keep them from tearing.

Use a torque limiter and elastomeric mounts of your liking or solid mounts. They sell quick removable torque limiters.

This seems to be a good choice for a street car as it offers some dampening.

Torque Straps
 
dano said:
These are just rubber mounts with two counter sunk screws in them. All elastomeric mounts will have a safety catch but that doesn't keep them from tearing.
Click to expand...

the screws limit the range of movement so the rubber does not tear, while still allowing wiggle room to dampen vibrations..
 
cannucky said:
The Schumaker bushed torque strap works great and you will never see it in an A Body with headers and power steering .
Click to expand...
Can't speak to the fit with power steering. When Schumacher started making the interlocked mounts, he talked me into using the torque strap instead. It alone solved the broken motor and transmission bisquits. If fit with PS is an issue, there must be some work arounds, or the old school steel chain method.
As far as headers, it seems to me that depends on whether they run through the K. I can say the TTI shorties don't interfere there, and as far as I can see, neither should the Dougs or TTI long tubes.
 
Mattax said:
Can't speak to the fit with power steering. When Schumacher started making the interlocked mounts, he talked me into using the torque strap instead. It alone solved the broken motor and transmission bisquits. If fit with PS is an issue, there must be some work arounds, or the old school steel chain method.
As far as headers, it seems to me that depends on whether they run through the K. I can say the TTI shorties don't interfere there, and as far as I can see, neither should the Dougs or TTI long tubes.
Click to expand...
I wasn't saying it won't fit I was saying it disappears behind everything when used with headers and power steering , one of the earlier posters commented he wanted the stock look .
 
cannucky said:
I wasn't saying it won't fit I was saying it disappears behind everything when used with headers and power steering , one of the earlier posters commented he wanted the stock look .
Click to expand...
Ah ha. Now I understand. Thanks for clarifying that. :)
 
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