motor oil

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Tadams

Tadams
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What do you guys recommend for weight and brand of motor oil for my 65 barracuda. The book says 10w30 or 10w40. Central N.Carolina has some cold winter weather but not normally sustained cold below the 20 degree mark. I thought I would change it this weekend.
thanks
 
Shaeffers oil 20-50w supreme 7000 semi synthetic.

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I jusy broke in a new motor saturday, I'm using VR-1 it has zinc in it. Conp cams says it's ok but they also recomened I use their additive every oil change
 
What do you guys recommend for weight and brand of motor oil for my 65 barracuda. The book says 10w30 or 10w40. Central N.Carolina has some cold winter weather but not normally sustained cold below the 20 degree mark. I thought I would change it this weekend.
thanks

I'll assume your engine isn't brand spanking new.

Any quality oil is fine for use. The weight of oil has a play in the extremes temps of heat and cold. I know I seen a chart on how the weights play a roll. However, a 10-30 I do beileve is fine till approx. 20*'s.

Look for the charts and recomendations as per the oil company your useing.

Here in New York, I'll use 10-30 in the winter.

For WIW, if your not leaking oil or burning it up, use synthectic.
 
try to find the comp cams additive,, hard to come by since all this ZDDP stuff
 
Other then a full out race motor, 10-30 weight of whatever is on sale. That is what I run in everthing I drive, including my nitrous slants, which run 13's and turn 6,000+ rpm.
If you are worried about the zinc, use GM "EOS" added to the oil. I only use this during break in.
 
mine is just a daily drive /6 that hasn't been built and will more than likely never be raced. I do thank you for all of the responses and ideas.
 
Another vote for 10w-30 here.

Zinc is only needed during the break-in of a new cam/lifters.

My nitrous junk has been 12.0@110 and still has the bearings in it I used when I built it the first time.

Unfortunately, oil doesn't protect piston tops from a fuel rich tune-up.
 
Another vote for 10w-30 here.

Zinc is only needed during the break-in of a new cam/lifters.

My nitrous junk has been 12.0@110 and still has the bearings in it I used when I built it the first time.

Unfortunately, oil doesn't protect piston tops from a fuel rich tune-up.

Thanks for reassuring me on my oil selection for my 66 solid /170.
 
Other then a full out race motor, 10-30 weight of whatever is on sale. That is what I run in everthing I drive, including my nitrous slants, which run 13's and turn 6,000+ rpm.
If you are worried about the zinc, use GM "EOS" added to the oil. I only use this during break in.

Thanks for jumping in Charrlie_S :-D
 
I'll assume your engine isn't brand spanking new.

Any quality oil is fine for use. The weight of oil has a play in the extremes temps of heat and cold. I know I seen a chart on how the weights play a roll. However, a 10-30 I do beileve is fine till approx. 20*'s.

Look for the charts and recomendations as per the oil company your useing.

Here in New York, I'll use 10-30 in the winter.

For WIW, if your not leaking oil or burning it up, use synthectic.

You don't sound to concerned about zinc in oil. I never was concerned with it until I became a member here and found out that it is a must for our cams. I have ran a 383 for a long time ( I mean years) just on regular oil and never had any problems with cams. So I just don't know if it worth the panic or not.???

Now it has been mentioned that zinc is only needed for break in purpose only.

This is one subject that seems to me everyone has a different answer. I will continue to run ZR-1 with a ZDDP additive just to keep my *** covered but all that is based upon paranoia and nothing else like facts.
 
from every thing i have read,the GM bottled additive has been discontinued,

The A/C Delco item 10-106 has been discontinued. The GM item number 1052367 has been changed to 88862586 due to a new vendor. My local Chevy dealer has both on the shelf, but the new number has had a major price increase.
 
Another vote for 10w-30 here.

Zinc is only needed during the break-in of a new cam/lifters.

My nitrous junk has been 12.0@110 and still has the bearings in it I used when I built it the first time.

Unfortunately, oil doesn't protect piston tops from a fuel rich tune-up.

If your racing you would use the lightest weight oil you could get away with running, but not everyone is racing here and so that doesn't really apply.

If you wanna play with weights then do so in relation to the temperature where you live, but mainly the low/cold temp. the hot side or with a multi weight the 2nd # IMO should be higher then what your climate reaches, cause then in the event of a over heat or extreme driving rpm situation your oil doesn't turn into water.

It never sees below 29* degrees and never higher than 114* degrees so I run 20-50w oil.
I've run straight 30w and 10-40w and both go thin after long freeway blasts causing a 10-15 psi drop at idle [from normal idle 40psi to 22-26psi] while stoped at a freeway off ramp which leads to less heat transfer in the oil causin g the cars temp to climb.
JME
 
I agree the zinc is only needed during engine breakin. As for the viscosity of the oil, in my opinion there is absolutely no reason to run anything heavier then a 10-30 oil in a normally sound automobile (big truck different considerations) engine. A lighter weight oil will start flowing easier and get to the bearings quicker. It will also have less oil drag power loss (better economy). A number of years ago, a friend used to run 50 weight racing oil in his 440 drag car. I could not convince him he was throwing power out the window. I used my 170 stock eliminator car as a test bed. Drained the 10-30, and installed straight 30 (same brand), car slowed almost a full tenth of a second average in the 1/4 mile. Drained the 30, and installed the 10-30, and the car picked back up. This was a average of 3 runs with each oil on the same day (9 runs total). He put 10-40 multi oil in his 440, and picked up more then a tenth.

I live in Florida, and tow a 5,500 lb race car/trailer with a 86 Toyota PU with a 22RE 4 cyl engine. It has 331,000 miles with the only engine work being a timing set at 200,000. This motor has had 10-30 in it since new, with no oiling problems. Every auto manufacturer (except the ones recommending synthetic), since about 1960 has recommended 10-30 or 5-30 oil in their engines.
 
Years ago when I was working at a GMC Nisson dealer the pick up tub was to small in the little Nisson trucks and people that did not pat attention to the
5w 30w and put in 10w40w oils was burning up motors because the pick up tub was a bit to small and was changed to a bigger tub the next year.
Try slurping up a thick shake through a small straw.
Thanks again Charrlie S.
 
Actually chrysler recommended different weights for different climates.

50W oils are for harleys not automobiles.

The 20w part of that 20-50w rating flows just fine in the morning.

Newer engines run lil tighter clearance then the older american 4's,6's,8's and can get away with 5-30w especially with the computer keeping the idle and mixture dead nuts all the time leaving the after effects of high rpm and high heat from extreme driving behind.

How many oil pressure gauges [numerical] come stock in cars these days?
Would still be nice to see how much that pressure go's away....

30w was what came in chryslers over in this neck of the woods why?climate.

As for the slant I used to punish, it got either 30w or 20-50w.
Remember I'm not using that over the counter cooking oil either....
 
Years ago when I was working at a GMC Nisson dealer the pick up tub was to small in the little Nisson trucks and people that did not pat attention to the
5w 30w and put in 10w40w oils was burning up motors because the pick up tub was a bit to small and was changed to a bigger tub the next year.
Try slurping up a thick shake through a small straw.
Thanks again Charrlie S.

MEMIKE, you are a smart dude and pretty nice guy as well, but if you think the switch to 10-40w weight was what killed those engines and not the fact that the sump was to small and let the pump suck air I might have to reconsider my judgement.lol

TRY sucking a shake through a straw at 75 psi.
Oh and if I was to pour that fresh shake onto the hood of a car then pour a quart of oil on the same hood which one do you think will run over the edges the hood first?
 
MEMIKE, you are a smart dude and pretty nice guy as well, but if you think the switch to 10-40w weight was what killed those engines and not the fact that the sump was to small and let the pump suck air I might have to reconsider my judgement.lol

TRY sucking a shake through a straw at 75 psi.
Oh and if I was to pour that fresh shake onto the hood of a car then pour a quart of oil on the same hood which one do you think will run over the edges the hood first?

Well said lol,
But they did have a change on the pick up tub if I remember right the tec's said the tub diameter was change to a bigger tub for some reason back about 95, Why I don't know, not a tec.:-D
If I have a 5 degree's F 10w30 or forty then I poor it on a hood the 5w15 would hit the ground first. wouldn't it.8)
Thanks for clearing that up, I need to think more before I type my mind.
 
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